Fitting compressor cooling unit into existing coolbox

[wizard]

Hoping to buy an air cooled cooling unit for my 50 litre coolbox (top opening) various websites explain the fitting - seems straightforward enough.
Has anyone done this job and can recomend how reliable various makes are. Are there any makes to avoid.
Thanks in anticipation...

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[Talbot]

Your bio gives no details of boat type of intended cruising area, but regardless of this, you would be well advised to use a water cooled system rather than air. This will use a lot less power, and will also be quieter. There are three types of watercooling:
1. where water is sucked into the boat and then exhausted again (hence 2 new underwater fittings).
2. where the cooling water is a closed circuit, and a section of the pipework is outside the hull.
3. where the cooling water is a closed circuit and is taken to a heat sink arrangement that penetrates the hull. (rather like an anode in shape) the water is cooled by passage through this heat sink (which itself is cooled by contact with the seaa water.

I prefer the last arrangement, and they can be obtained through <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/default.shtm>penguin</A>

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[Birdseye]

Re: Fitting compressor cooling unit into existing

did this using a water cooled system from penguin eng. if i had any sort of memory left i would tell you the make. anyway, the compressor bit was scandinavian (as they mostly are) and derived from a car a/c set (as they mostly are). The other bits were wop, which gave me a bit of anxiety but hasnt yet proved a problem.

installation was pretty noddy. little more than drilling a few holes, screwing a few screws and then connecting the lot together using the quick fit type connections on the system I chose.

still working well four years later. the only problem i have is that the system is way more efficicent when under way. to the extent that I have several times frozen the tonic for the G&t of SWMBO. so I had to saw a piece off with a beadknife.

<hr width=100% size=1>this post is a personal opinion, and you should not base your actions on it.

 

[boatless]

Re: Fitting compressor cooling unit into existing

Ah, now then. Use the dregs of the flat tonic in the ice tray. Beats water ice because you don't get the taste of water in the Gin.

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[jac]

I did this the winter before last. Used an Isotherm ASU unit into the coolbox of a Gibsea 84 based in solent.

Chose the ASU as around 20 -30 minutes of engine use was enough to fully charge the cooling plate which then didn't use the compressor pretty much all day. Even in mid 80's F found that motoring out about 10 and back about 17:00 and never really aware of the compressor coming on. No problems with the temperature that it maintained and would fit again. Spent a long time @ Earls court b/s talking to the guys to make sure i had the right components and getting those right is important.

Fitting is fairly easy - took about an afternoon but be careful of the load that the compressor takes and do fit damn big wiring!! No special tools needed although you'll probably need a small hole saw to get the fittings through any bulkheads/ coolbox sides.

I went air cooled and didn't have a problem. My main fear with the water cooled was fitting the heat exchanger. I have a phobia for fitting new bits of kit into the bottom of an other wise leak-proof hull.

If you can overcome that particular phobia then agree watercooled is best but may not be needed in UK waters unless we get a really bad dose of global warming.

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[bloggins]

Contact www.Isotherm.com web site - which I found useful when in need of advice and spare part for my own unit.

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[alldownwind]

Just contemplating the same job. Can you point us at the websites you refer to that have fitting instructions/advice? Thanks.

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[William_H]

Re: Fitting compressor cooling unit into existing

I am interested in design of refrigeration for boats. It seems to me that the compressor from a car airconditioner would have a great deal of cooling power belt driven from the main engine via an electric clutch as in cars. The obvious choice for condensor cooling would be to run the engine inlet water through a heat exchanger before going to engine or in even run the refrigerant in copper pipe through a loop of pipe carrying engine cooling water into the engine. Is this a problem I would think most engine cooling could easily cope with warm water into the engine.
As another thought when using electric compressor how would a series of copper pipes as an evaporator go if epoxied to the inside of the hull under water. I realise the fibreglass is not a good conductor and it is not good to heat fibreglass but I would imagine with all that cooling water on the other side the heat could be conducted fairly well. The idea of air cooling with all that water around is hard to swallow. Has anyone any experience or usefull comment . regards will

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[boatless]

Re: Fitting compressor cooling unit into existing

Thermal conductivity of grp is not going to be a huge problem, think about modern underfloor heating, which is normally fitted under at least 20mm of dry wood! Still works fine, just takes a bit longer. A good barrier between the coil and the interior air would be a good idea though. (Unless you want to warm the boat in a cold climate).

On the other hand, there is a neat skin fitting, normally intended for galley sink, that includes a cooling circuit - purpose designed. Swedish, from memory.

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[Miker]

I fitted an air cooled Waeco compressor unit a few years ago. So far it has worked without any problems. I'm no DIY expert, I just carefully followed the instructions. My main problem was in deciding where to site the compressor unit. In the end, I put it in a locker under a seat and drilled ventillation holes.
I fitted a cooler plate slightly over spec, as against under- the other option, and everything is as cold as I would want, more so if I don't get the setting correct.
My cruising waters are in NW England.

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[JamesS]

I fitted a Waeco unit last year - excellent product and works superbly.

Easy to install, the instructions that come with the unit are very easy to follow and they have an excellent website at www.waeco.co.uk

If you are near the south coast then Alladins Cave carry a wide range of units, all well priced.

Cheers

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[Birdseye]

Re: Fitting compressor cooling unit into existing

I fitted the water cooled unit because I planned a trip to the med - in the UK I would use air cooling inside the boat. How often does it get so warm in the UK that you feel uncomfortable with the extra heat generated by the fridge? Plus you can still use the fridge when dried out, which you cant with the water cooled ones.

I selected a sintered bronze cooling shoe since this can double as the earth plate for the ssb. In the end, I didnt use it for the ssb since it didnt prove necessary to have an earthing plate

I sail so my engine cooling water is not flowing most of the time. If you have a stinkboat, then maybe using the cooling water flow would work. Sounds a bit like another complication though.

If I had my time again I would install holding plates.

<hr width=100% size=1>this post is a personal opinion, and you should not base your actions on it.

 

[charles_reed]

I fitted

an ASU Isotherm unit when first I got my boat 13 years ago.

Apart from the fan motor shorting out, due to bilge water getting into it, that did superbly.
I changed it foir another Isotherm unit, mainly because the original one had Freon 12 as its propellant and topping it up would be difficult.

A few tips:-

1. Get the largest holding plate you can get into your coolbox.
2. Boost the insulation (I used polyurethane foam for the places I couldn't get at easily) to about 100mm.
3. Duct the air away from the cooling fan - use flexible piping as supplied for tumble-driers.
4. Mount the unit well away from where it can be affected by bilge water.

Mine works great in 40C ambient, and, when the propellant leaked I had some very effective support from the Swedish manufacturer.

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