Tim Good
Well-known member
Can anyone give me the concise guide to ferro-cement boats? Interested in the pros and cons and those with and without hull certificates?
I've never been a fan of ferro cement despite my profession. Concrete is a brittle material but very durable and vulnerable to impact failure. They are cheap to buy but difficult to insure and sell. Best avoided imo.
Ferro-cement boats are made with cement, not concrete.
The 'Ferro' in ferro cement is important - it overcomes the brittleness of the cement. Cement is good in compression; steel good in tension. The two work in tandem to produce a solid hull.
Ferro is very tough - certainly not 'vulnerable' to impact failure. I'd much rather be in trouble in a ferro boat than a grp one.
Buying is cheap and selling is always difficult. There are too many 'bad' examples around that de-value the 'good' ones.
Insurance can be obtained through Yachtmaster Insurance in suffolk.
As for advice in buying one? Seek out one built in the 70's / early 80's - as this is when ferrocement boatbuilding was in it's heyday - and there was plenty of experience around. Also, if it's lasted this long - then you can be sure the hull itself is sound.
Here's an interesting thought - Ferrocement is less dense than GRP...
Ferro-cement boats are made with cement, not concrete.
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As for advice in buying one? Seek out one built in the 70's / early 80's - as this is when ferrocement boatbuilding was in it's heyday - and there was plenty of experience around. Also, if it's lasted this long - then you can be sure the hull itself is sound.
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Concrete is a mix of cement and aggregate(inert granular material). I've no idea what mix is was used for ferro-cement boats but would be very surprised if it was 100% cement - the heat of hydration would be enormous and would cause a lot of cracking when it cooled down.Ferro-cement boats are made with cement, not concrete
Concrete is a mix of cement and aggregate(inert granular material). I've no idea what mix is was used for ferro-cement boats but would be very surprised if it was 100% cement - the heat of hydration would be enormous and would cause a lot of cracking when it cooled down.
The hessian is to keep the water in the mix to ensure the cement fully hydrates and doesn't dry out. Same reason you cover or spray a concrete slab after pouring. It has little to do with controlling temperature. Concrete strength increases with age, it was typical at one time to specify concrete on the 28 day compressive strength and test a sample at 7 days to make sure it's heading in the right direction.Sand and cement, but when building, the technique was to cover the newly plastered hull in wet hessian sacks and keep it wet for a week. There is more steel in the armature of of a Ferro, than cement
One thing I've sometimes wondered about is the life of the armature; it just has to rust, and salt water will get to it somehow...
There used to be a firm building ferro-cement boats on the East Coast. I think it was Windboats Ltd. Apparently they exhibited a finished boat which had a patch of the underwater hull left bare of paint, and as a demonstration of how strong it was, anyone visiting the stand was invited to whack it with a hammer.
I must admit I never saw this myself but I have it on good authority . . . . . !
There are two concrete hulks at Faversham; they've sat abandoned for decades and were built a century ago. They are coming apart, but it's happening very slowly.