Epoxy filler/mixer

West's ( here offer very good advice. Equally good are SP systems. It is all a balance between hardness, sandability and weight. AFAIK car repair materials are a bit cheaper.
To get epoxy off the carpet, wipe off with acetone while still wet. Or cut out a patch the same size as the spill from under the sofa ...... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Steve, I used basic ones (Isopon) for pretty major repairs to an outdrive and it's hung together very well.

Given that it has had to withstand extremes of temperature as well as imersion in salt water I have been amazed.

From memory I used a product called Metallic or similar.
 
I am using Wests ad SP Epoxy Resin and Hardener but would like to know what additives to use to make filleting paste (High & Low Density). I know I can get the additives from West and SP's but wondered it there were any common alternatives to Colloidial Silica, microballons etc.. Cheers I know you wont let me down.
 
Wood dust works reasonably well - out of the dust collector of your sander for example, (advise you use a dust mask). Probably not as strong as colloidal silica and tends to slump more than epoxy filled with either colloidal silica or microfibres, but reasonably tough when set.
 
Micro balloons aka glass bubbles are suited to surface finishes, as they are easy to rub down, but they are not strong. Colloidal silica would be better for joints. What we really need here is old salt oz, who is very reliable on these matters.
 
colodial silica is used to make a mix thixotropic but sets glass hard with little strengh and will shatter when hit. Micro fibres rienforce a mix and if used with colsil make a good highstrength mih.
If you are just after a fairing mix then glass bubbles will be ok but have zero strength.
Hope it helps if not read gugeon bros on boat construction.
 
For fairing / low strength / low density applications, microballoons (hollow phenolic resin spheres) are usually used, however Q-cells (hollow glass spheres) are often used as they are somewhat cheaper, although less easy to sand. Gougeons also have a "featherlite" filler, but it's pricey. Regardless of filler, you will normally add a little colodial silica to aid thixotropic properties (it tends to eliminate sag). If you're being really cheap, you can use industrial talc, but it's not super low density, nor quite as easy to sand.

For glueing, use a ready made glue mix, or mix microfibres with colodial silica depending on whether the glue is likely to sag during cure. I often use just colodial silica, or colodial silica mixed with Q-cells or balloons to make a glue mix where utlimate strength requirement isn't high, or where surface area is large.

While the resin manufacturers all sell glue extenders, a friend with extensive industry experience has convinced me that ready made epoxy glue has superior properties to the resin + hardener + glue extender mix.
 
G'day Steve,

You can use 'Q' cells to fill the rudder if it's hollow, they are also OK to use to fair the rudder when the repairs have cured; 'Q' cells cost less than than Micro-Balloons and not hard to sand.

Alternative fillers are too many to list here, but almost anything that has fine particles can be used ranging from cement powder to saw dust, however I would be very careful about using them, there are many good fillers that will give you the proper strength and flexibility required.

Micro-Fibres make a very strong glue but are also very hard to sand, so make sure you remove any excess before it cures; if making a fillet, mix to about toothpaste thickness and let it stand for a few minutes, then apply with the back of a plastic spoon fro an even finish.

As for removing epoxy from your carpet; all epoxy resins are soluble in water prior to curing, so you wash it off your skin (or the carpet) if its still wet. If the resin has cured on your carpet nothing I know of will remove it without destroying the carpet.

PS. If your repair on the rudder includes working on the rudder stock to rudder interface, add a couple of 'O' rings to the shaft with a dab of Vaseline under them and glass over, no more leaking into the rudder.

PPS. Sorry I have not been around for the last week, had to deliver a 40 foot catamaran to Cairns, left Airlie Beach on Saturday afternoon and arrived Cairns on Thursday at 6 am. Had a great run up the coast east to s/east all the way, dropped the pick every night but for the last one when we sailed fro Orpheus Is to Cairns, had to keep a close eye on shipping for this leg.

Avagoodweekend......
 
Hi Old Salt
Many thanks for your input, much appreciated. Think I will stick to the commercial stuff that is available. The rudder is nearly finished. I have managed to fill all holes, afraid I had already filled the gap between shaft and rudder interface so couldnt do the o ring trick as suggested. Just have to glass/epoxy around the edge of the rudder using tape or mat then finally two coats of epoxy over the whole blade. The rudder is from my 27' Albin Vega.
 
G'day Pedro_Sail,

I need a bit more information like is the hole above or below the waterline, on deck, in the hull, will it be visible, will it need gelcoating or painting, how big is it?

Avagoodweekend.....
 
Hello Old Salt Oz

I sail in a dinghy and normally I perform two main damages, in the bow, in the start of the race (some times with 10 cm) and others very small ones.

Normally, I sand and fill with fibre glass and resin and finish with spray paint, but it doesn't stay with a good finish.

Cheers

Pedro
 
G'day Pedro_Sail,

Next time you do a repair make sure you feather the edges and sand off any glass so that you have a mm or 2 of space between the sanded glass and the hull form. Add some 'Q' Cells to your resin and fill the low areas, when it has cured, sand back to the required profile with a 200 grit sandpaper then finish with a 400 grit, always use a block when sanding;you should get a good finish when painted.

Avagoodweekend.
 
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