Entry-level circular saw

[Hunterlees]

I have the Erbauer, and one of the advantages of the the smaller blade is the ability to get closer into the corner if you are working on installed woodwork such as cutting hatches etc.

 

[thinwater]

1. Today I replaced a "price point" saw I bought 20 years ago. I got my money's worth, but the replacment is a better saw, adjusts more easily, and cuts more accurately. I wish had bought it the first time (Skilsaw--a mostly pro US brand). But this is more of a round-the-house tool than a boat tool for me. Very little use on boat projects.
2. A table saw is more useful for boat projects. The smaller ones are quite portable and still very capable.
3. For close quarters, ocsilating saws (Multi-Master) are really much more versitile than any circular saw. Very handy in boats.

Skil claims to have invented the handheld circular saw (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edmond_Michel), but that is probably only a US claim. Like many tools, it popped up a number of places around the same time.

 

[ghostlymoron]

I bought a black and decker in the early eighties which has served me well ever since. If buying now I would get one with easier and more precise adjustment but there wasn't so much choice in them days.

 

[38mess]

I think you just need to look at all the wooden boat building videos on YouTube, very few battery tools being used, maybe a drill or screwdriver.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

I do a fair bit of woodworking and a couple of years ago bought a tracksaw since then I rarely use my tablesaw and am actually thinking of selling it. But for the occasional worker a circular saw and good straight edge will do fine.

 

[Gary Fox]

I have that MacAllister, it is very pleasant to use, just be ready to buy blades for particular jobs.

 

[Gwylan]

Mine...

Previous one (corded Screwfix brand) spontaneously combusted when I tried to cut along the grain of a 5 foot long 6cm thick bit of timber.

+1. After years of shirt live rubbish we made a policy decision to standardise on 18v Makita.

Have bought "Chakita" tools to run on the batteries. But not the drill or circular saw. Excellent bits of kit

 

[dancrane]

Thanks for so many views and recommendations. I'm more of a beginner than I had realised last night. I had no idea there are so many styles of saw - so it's hard to reach a conclusion before I establish exactly what I want to do, at present and likely in future.

A table saw sounds fantastic - partly because it would (I'm assuming) provide another bit of raised space to work on (one of the things I really lack, and plan to make, is a work-bench). My space is appallingly limited, so a fixed-location blade around which I can move the workpiece, sounds more accurate than a tool that needs to be steered around the job...like a pillar-drill rather than a handheld.

Odd that I should go from wanting a saw no bigger than a 115mm grinder, to one that's as big as a coffee table.

Also somewhat odd (to my unschooled eyes) is this price variation between two models by the same manufacturer, at Screwfix:

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Thanks for so many views and recommendations. I'm more of a beginner than I had realised last night. I had no idea there are so many styles of saw - so it's hard to reach a conclusion before I establish exactly what I want to do, at present and likely in future.

A table saw sounds fantastic - partly because it would (I'm assuming) provide another bit of raised space to work on (one of the things I really lack, and plan to make, is a work-bench). My space is appallingly limited, so a fixed-location blade around which I can move the workpiece, sounds more accurate than a tool that needs to be steered around the job...like a pillar-drill rather than a handheld.

Odd that I should go from wanting a saw no bigger than a 115mm grinder, to one that's as big as a coffee table.

Also somewhat odd (to my unschooled eyes) is this price variation between two models by the same manufacturer, at Screwfix:

They are Two very different beasts and I would strongly advise against the HS100S it will be very basic and you will struggle to make accurate cuts with it. A much better proposition would be a track saw even one of the cheaper ones Parkside (Aldi or Lidl) will serve you much better and the accuracy will be limited to your ability to measure and line up the track.

 

[2Tizwoz]

B&Q have an excellent offer on a JCB saw. It's the same model I bought myself and am very pleased with. The base plate is alumonium which keeps weight down but it's robust and accurate unlike some others.

I've had mine for five years now and used it extensively. It's a pleasure to use unlike some others. JCB do protect their reputation so its good quality.

 

[northwind]

If you want to rip timber then a table saw is the way to go, if you want to cut down sheet material then a tracksaw is best as you can do more in a smaller working space.

 

[Rappey]

I think you just need to look at all the wooden boat building videos on YouTube, very few battery tools being used, maybe a drill or screwdriver

I got the opposite impression, especially with tallyho.
A huge advantage with the likes of a cordless planer is not having to stop when you run out of lead.
A lot of these cordless makita tools give a better quality finish than the mains powered versions and don't fall fall of electrical regs
A lot will be dependant on how much you have to do and how many batteries you have.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

If you want to rip timber then a table saw is the way to go, if you want to cut down sheet material then a tracksaw is best as you can do more in a smaller working space.

You can put a ripping blade in a tracksaw.

 

[dancrane]

I'm enjoying reading all your responses and views, but I am badly in the dark.

Cross-cut...across the grain? Ripping...with the grain? Doesn't every circular saw just cut what you press its blade against?

Most of my woodwork will be ply, so I guess it will be both ways at once. I may want to cut non-ply too, and I can't say which way.

I sense that your collective expertise is providing specificity that I haven't enough knowledge to use. I need a sort of, cutting saw.

I guess that's why I liked the little Erbauer in the first post - its size and lack of complexity looks so easy to use.

 

[Rappey]

I sense that your collective expertise is providing specificity that I haven't enough knowledge to use.

Not at all. We all have our preferences and what we prefer. It's your choice what you decide to do.
A course blade will cut quickly, it will rip through the timber but leave a nasty finish.
Cutting across a grain is the easiest .
Along the grain can be hard work with some woods, and that's where a higher power branded circular saw will do a better job.
A mini saw has a lot more teeth per inch and a narrow blade leaving a good non splintered finish but may not cut deeper than 35mm

 

[dancrane]

Thanks Rappey, that's really helpful.

Speed certainly won't be an issue for me, I'd rather have clean smooth cuts. A mini-saw does sound adequate.

Is it really all in the blade? That seems to make it easier to pick a saw - because I can always change the blade.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Thanks Rappey, that's really helpful.

Speed certainly won't be an issue for me, I'd rather have clean smooth cuts. A mini-saw does sound adequate.

Is it really all in the blade? That seems to make it easier to pick a saw - because I can always change the blade.

Yes you cab change the blade which is why I say you will be better off with a cheap track saw that you can fit a 40 dish tooth blade for ply and cross cuts and a 12 tooth blade for ripping if you have to. What no one has mentioned is the quality of the cut and finish that you get.

 

[Rappey]

Is it really all in the blade?

A good blade in a rubbish machine will often still give a rubbish finish.
The more teeth per inch on the blade the neater the cut but at much slower progress.
Ply and similar can have one cut face heavily splintered but a hardwood can be fine.
A circular saw can be a savage beast in the hands of a first timer.
The mini saw is a lot more sedate for cutting sheet material and extremely easy to slide along a straight edge without it trying to wander off.

 

[Graham376]

They are Two very different beasts and I would strongly advise against the HS100S it will be very basic and you will struggle to make accurate cuts with it. A much better proposition would be a track saw even one of the cheaper ones Parkside (Aldi or Lidl) will serve you much better and the accuracy will be limited to your ability to measure and line up the track.

I agree, the HS100s is a lightweight hobby saw. Trying to cut even half a sheet of ply single handed on a saw that size is hard work and far less accurate than a track saw. I managed full sheet cutting for quite a while with a basic circular saw and home made guide, which was an improvement on free-hand. The track saw and proper tracks made a hell of a difference in ease of use and accuracy, it's now my go-to tool for ply and MDF over about 2' x 2'. The Triton I have uses same tracks as Festool and Makita, all of which are available in longer lengths than having to join lots of 700mm ones which come with cheaper saws. Another advantage of tracks is that many routers can be mounted for cutting long dados, much easier than on table saw or router table.

 

[LadyInBed]

Also somewhat odd (to my unschooled eyes) is this price variation between two models by the same manufacturer, at Screwfix:

230v 2kw brush motor / 400v 4.8kw induction motor
24 tooth / 48 tooth disk
Totally different animals!