longjohnsilver
Well-known member
Did they give it a glowing review?
Entry-level circular saw
- Thread starter dancrane
- Start date
dancrane
Well-known member
Yes, and very versatile. I made an outboard bracket with a single 4m board, a couple of summers back. Using a hand-saw.
I can't blame its imperfections on the type of saw.
Blueboatman
Well-known member
?
Stealth motor ??
Stealth motor ??
Blueboatman
Well-known member
Someone did
( Edit. But this is a later link to A N Other paper )
Still glowing strong: Britain's oldest light bulb keeps on shining after an incredible 130 years
Alfie168
Well-known member
I've still got the circular saw attachment for my 1970s orange & grey two speed black and decker drill. It's on its fourth blade in 40 years...actually a bit of the plastic handle broke off, but glued back on OK. It does all I need to this day... Not that I have ever been a skilled wood mangler.
thinwater
Well-known member
I've been quite happy just clamping a 5' section of 1" aluminum square tube to sheet goods and running the saw along that. With the right blade, it is as clean as a table saw. Like a poor man's track saw, simple, cheap, and versatile, but a few more seconds to set for each cut.
thinwater
Well-known member
The one I pitched was a similar age B&D with a broken guard. I was not comfortable gluing the guard back together. Other than that, a very solid saw that cut a lot of wood over many decades. But the shoe was always hard to adjust and a little sloppy.
xyachtdave
Well-known member
I've recently moved over to a Dewalt 54 volt circular saw that can run on a rail too. It genuinely has the power of a corded equivalent without the hassle of a lead.
Well out of the OP's scope but wow...is it good!
Well out of the OP's scope but wow...is it good!
requiem
Active member
I have the Bosch 6.5" 18v saw, and it works fine for me. One of the first things I did was to construct a guide for it: a wider length of thin ply, with a narrower width glued/screwed atop as a guide. Run the saw against the guide to trim the base and you have a straight-edge guide that also aligns perfectly to the cut. (Caveat: It seems the side of the foot under the motor is parallel to the blade, but not the opposite side.) To reduce splinters you can pre-tape the cutline with masking tape (with table saws the splintering will be on the bottom, and with circular saws the top). If using a guide as describe above I suppose you could also try running a marking knife along the cutline to pre-sever the fibers.
The big difference with the two table saws mentioned upthread is that one appears to be a larger cabinet saw and the other a more portable jobsite saw. You may find differences in the precision of the saw (e.g. are the mitre tracks perfectly smooth and parallel, how well does the fence stay parallel) as well as the noise (deep thrum vs shrill screech). Being short of space I have the 8.25" Dewalt. That's too small for a dado stack, but that's fine with me and I think only the Americans are crazy enough to use them.
Cordless is very convenient for tight places, and generally it makes sense to align on one brand. I've gone Bosch blue, but would be happy working with any of the major brands out there. I'm also in the habit of assuming that any blade that comes with a saw is for general carpentry and should be swapped out for finer work.
A track or circular saw is certainly easier for breaking down large sheets of material compared to manhandling them over a table saw. I wouldn't use a table saw as a work surface, but if you go for one consider making a cross-cut sled (search out William Ng's 5 cut method to align the fence).
Regarding the Japanese saws, as much as I love the cutting-on-the-pull aspect, they are also quite thin. If you are only the slightest off at the start of the cut, it becomes very difficult to correct. I've gone back to using Western-style saws for this reason.
The big difference with the two table saws mentioned upthread is that one appears to be a larger cabinet saw and the other a more portable jobsite saw. You may find differences in the precision of the saw (e.g. are the mitre tracks perfectly smooth and parallel, how well does the fence stay parallel) as well as the noise (deep thrum vs shrill screech). Being short of space I have the 8.25" Dewalt. That's too small for a dado stack, but that's fine with me and I think only the Americans are crazy enough to use them.
Cordless is very convenient for tight places, and generally it makes sense to align on one brand. I've gone Bosch blue, but would be happy working with any of the major brands out there. I'm also in the habit of assuming that any blade that comes with a saw is for general carpentry and should be swapped out for finer work.
A track or circular saw is certainly easier for breaking down large sheets of material compared to manhandling them over a table saw. I wouldn't use a table saw as a work surface, but if you go for one consider making a cross-cut sled (search out William Ng's 5 cut method to align the fence).
Regarding the Japanese saws, as much as I love the cutting-on-the-pull aspect, they are also quite thin. If you are only the slightest off at the start of the cut, it becomes very difficult to correct. I've gone back to using Western-style saws for this reason.
Fr J Hackett
Well-known member
Yes it works well and people have been using that method for years but for a few pounds / dollars more you can get a cheap track saw which can be a bit more versatile.
xyachtdave
Well-known member
That's quality for hand tools and a scaffold board! 10/10Yes, and very versatile. I made an outboard bracket with a single 4m board, a couple of summers back. Using a hand-saw.
I can't blame its imperfections on the type of saw.
dancrane
Well-known member
Any longer than a quick glance, and you begin to see that not all the pieces meet up where they should, but thanks!
Cutting the tops of the diagonals accurately into a vertical semi-slot to house the cross-piece the engines bolts on to, wasn't easy, that's why the legs don't touch the ground at the same angle. But for hurried work with a handsaw in the hot July sun (and especially with my rotten record of DIY) I'm quite happy with it. It's had nearly 40kg of outboards resting on it for a long time without flexing.
I am grateful for all the suggestions, experiences and reports of what works. Just too busy to go shopping at the moment.
Cutting the tops of the diagonals accurately into a vertical semi-slot to house the cross-piece the engines bolts on to, wasn't easy, that's why the legs don't touch the ground at the same angle. But for hurried work with a handsaw in the hot July sun (and especially with my rotten record of DIY) I'm quite happy with it. It's had nearly 40kg of outboards resting on it for a long time without flexing.
I am grateful for all the suggestions, experiences and reports of what works. Just too busy to go shopping at the moment.
Blueboatman
Well-known member
Dan . Every single job I’ve ever done on my boat house etc etc can be summarised as .. okaay, but what about that little bit I almost messed up , how can I do it better next time ?? What round I change ?
Occasionally I do think. Wow , got that one just right . Occasionally ?
Perfectionism vs striving for acceptable realism . ‘Twas ever thus eh
Occasionally I do think. Wow , got that one just right . Occasionally ?
Perfectionism vs striving for acceptable realism . ‘Twas ever thus eh
ghostlymoron
Well-known member
My stepson in law has nothing but Makita power tools and even these don't last forever but he's a builder so can justify the cost. For the likes of us amateurs we can't especially as there are now several medium quality brands that will do.
dancrane
Well-known member
I carried bricks and mixed cement for a handful of old British builders in France about 20 years ago. They were forever extolling the qualities of their own and each others' Metabo, Makita, DeWalt and even Hitachi powertools. In those days I bought very cheap supermarché tools and had quite adequate grinders, belt-sanders and drills, but none of them lasted long.
In spite of reading reviews and forums, and watching Youtube and what's in the shops, I've never seen any hard proof that any one of the premium brands is "best". I recently went for Bosch (pro-grade dark blue) when I needed a cordless drill, because I found one at under £100 with 4ah battery and a good tough case that also carries lots of hand tools.
I hear a lot of negative talk about Bosch, but I don't know why. I bought a Bosch cordless grinder too, and it's great. I really want their 10,000 lumen worklight....and possibly a brushless impact wrench. I've no use for it but I want all that compact POWER.
Damn, I started this thread particularly hoping we wouldn't get side-tracked onto powertools in general. ?
I'm attracted to the old-fashioned American heavyweight called a 'worm-drive Skilsaw'. I suppose it's the same appeal as a rear-wheel drive car like a Mustang. Perhaps all old kit from respected brands is good, because it wouldn't have endured if it wasn't solid.
So as Savageseadog and others have suggested, I might do just as well or better than new, by finding good secondhand kit that's old enough to be no costlier than new basic stuff.
I've nothing really against the cheaper names, but they do love to add options and cleverdick stuff that defies the low price - and I'd rather have something simple and solid than advanced but flimsy.
In spite of reading reviews and forums, and watching Youtube and what's in the shops, I've never seen any hard proof that any one of the premium brands is "best". I recently went for Bosch (pro-grade dark blue) when I needed a cordless drill, because I found one at under £100 with 4ah battery and a good tough case that also carries lots of hand tools.
I hear a lot of negative talk about Bosch, but I don't know why. I bought a Bosch cordless grinder too, and it's great. I really want their 10,000 lumen worklight....and possibly a brushless impact wrench. I've no use for it but I want all that compact POWER.
Damn, I started this thread particularly hoping we wouldn't get side-tracked onto powertools in general. ?
I'm attracted to the old-fashioned American heavyweight called a 'worm-drive Skilsaw'. I suppose it's the same appeal as a rear-wheel drive car like a Mustang. Perhaps all old kit from respected brands is good, because it wouldn't have endured if it wasn't solid.
So as Savageseadog and others have suggested, I might do just as well or better than new, by finding good secondhand kit that's old enough to be no costlier than new basic stuff.
I've nothing really against the cheaper names, but they do love to add options and cleverdick stuff that defies the low price - and I'd rather have something simple and solid than advanced but flimsy.
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MonniotC
Member
No, it was quite elementary. (not white-hot).
Graham376
Well-known member
deleted
Fr J Hackett
Well-known member
I wouldn't get too hung up on power, anything above 1000 W will be adequate, what is important is a good blade and feed rate just the same as with a file or a handsaw let the tool do the work don't try to force or pressurise it.
dancrane
Well-known member
Thanks for that. Initially it seems a mixed message..."do I want a light saw, or a powerful one?" Yes. ?
But I guess the point is, the best blend of power and lightness is the best saw.
savageseadog
Well-known member
I managed to buy a Chinese cheapie, very similar to the Aldi/Lidl offerings in a charity shop. It was virtually new. It cuts very well but the guides are absolutely awful. As they're tightened they move making setting a cut up a protracted proceed. OK for occassional DIY