Could have sunk........

[Elessar]

Busy at the moment so I had the legs serviced rather than doing it myself. I needed new trim senders which is a pain on mercs, as well as bellows etc. I was also fitting new depth and speed transducers and polishing up to the gunwale, all to be done in the 48 hours she was out of the water.

Plan was to go in last Wednesday, take a trip to the IOW with some pals to test her before she did a YM exam at the weekend.

Anyway, into the water, check for leaks - leaking fast. Back out, leg off, transom shield dismantled to reseat the seal on the trim sender cable. Glad that bit wasn't me........

Launch again Thursday lunchtime. Seemed fine, checked all pumps etc. Cleaned boat and took her back to shamrock by about 9pm so decided to stay overnight.

Glad I did. Next morning she was down about 9" at the stern. Fortunately I realised and pumped her out just before it got to the level of expensive in engine damage terms or flippin expensive in sinking terms.

Basically, the steering arm on the transom shield has worn and is letting in water. The service shouldn't have touched the steering arm but I guess taking the shield apart has exposed an underlying fault.

But my mistake was that I checked the pump with the on switch not with the float switch. The cable to the float switch had been pulled out of the connector.

I'm now back out figuring out how to completely remove the transom shields without taking the engines out. I hope it can be done as I have 2 weeks to get her all fixed before her next booking, taking the engines out means dismantling quite lot of boat.

The port steering arm has about half on inch of vertical movement so it certainly is nackered.

Boats

 

[spannerman]

I have done at least 15 of these repairs now and the only way is to take the engine out as you will certainly need new upper and lower bushes in the transom and you will never get them out if you try the alternative method of cutting holes in the top of the transom shield.
Unfortunately the steering pin and arm are the first two components to assemble in the whole transom shield assembly.
I have successfully rebuilt these many times as I do a mod to stop it happening again, I fit two proper seals with a stainless tension springs in stead of the nasty plastic affair with no spring that is original. Also I mount the seals the opposite way so that the lips are towards the sea to keep it out, I also bore a hole through to the steering pin and fit a grease nipple as the older drives had so you can lube it in future, (reason its failed).
If the steering pin is badly pitted you will need a new one and they aren't cheap, what I do is take it to a machine shop and get them to turn it down and sweat on a stainless bushing to the original diameter so now the sealing surface won't corrode. I also replace the rubber seal around the shield.
I have done this mod on my past and present Mercruiser powered boats and for our customers.
The deciding factor is if the area around the seal in the shield is eaten away as then there is nothing to retain the new seal and that means a new transom, if its OK then you can rebuild it.
I have done it once without removing the engine by just lifting it and swinging it to on side but it was a single installation.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but if its leaking this is the only way to fix it short of a new transom shield.

 

[MikeJ42]

I have done at least 15 of these repairs now and the only way is to take the engine out as you will certainly need new upper and lower bushes in the transom and you will never get them out if you try the alternative method of cutting holes in the top of the transom shield.
Unfortunately the steering pin and arm are the first two components to assemble in the whole transom shield assembly.
I have successfully rebuilt these many times as I do a mod to stop it happening again, I fit two proper seals with a stainless tension springs in stead of the nasty plastic affair with no spring that is original. Also I mount the seals the opposite way so that the lips are towards the sea to keep it out, I also bore a hole through to the steering pin and fit a grease nipple as the older drives had so you can lube it in future, (reason its failed).
If the steering pin is badly pitted you will need a new one and they aren't cheap, what I do is take it to a machine shop and get them to turn it down and sweat on a stainless bushing to the original diameter so now the sealing surface won't corrode. I also replace the rubber seal around the shield.
I have done this mod on my past and present Mercruiser powered boats and for our customers.
The deciding factor is if the area around the seal in the shield is eaten away as then there is nothing to retain the new seal and that means a new transom, if its OK then you can rebuild it.
I have done it once without removing the engine by just lifting it and swinging it to on side but it was a single installation.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but if its leaking this is the only way to fix it short of a new transom shield.

I read things like this then remember I hate boats.

 

[Firefly625]

I read things like this then remember I hate boats.

I do feel for you Elessar, but at least you where there! A few hours earlier and I guess you may not have stayed on the boat overnight...and that would have been a disaster.

I know outdrives gives you more accommodation, something I really would like! ..........but it is tales like these that make me appreciate shaft drive..

Hope you get it all sorted with the minimum of time and expense.

 

[oldgit]

"I read things like this then remember I hate boats"

No not boats.......just feccccckikkng outdrives.....piles of total s***e.

Sorry to hear of your problems,brings my experiences back big time and the older the outdrives the more the bits start to go wrong.

 

[volvopaul]

Funny this post should come up as last week I stripped off one drive to find the shield damaged by the shaft flailing round a the gimball bearing was in bits, so yes its engine out on this one too. The steering was id call it variable to say the least, new shield req as parts add up to more than a complete new shield with rams, bellows all the bits.

Then today 2 bravo 2 drives off and I get my feet wet, as the bellows full of water and gimball bearings shot and seized up, corroded salt crystals everywhere, who invented this idea!!!!!

Puller on the bearings and out they came.

Elessar, how come you paid an engineer and he missed the worn steering pin, then didnt seal up the wires, they have a special loom with a grommet in 2 halves of a circle tht seals through the shield on a taper, and your 220s are fairly easy to get round compared to a yanmar on a bravo 3 shield.

You will have to bite the bullit, id personally fit a new shield then you wont have the grief in future years, in fact while your going all the way get them both out and fit both, shop around ther are some great deals on new parts at the moment, if you want to know who I use send me a pm.

Im in Shamrock in the morning so may look you up.

 

[Firefly625]

Funny this post should come up as last week I stripped off one drive to find the shield damaged by the shaft flailing round a the gimball bearing was in bits, so yes its engine out on this one too. The steering was id call it variable to say the least, new shield req as parts add up to more than a complete new shield with rams, bellows all the bits.

Then today 2 bravo 2 drives off and I get my feet wet, as the bellows full of water and gimball bearings shot and seized up, corroded salt crystals everywhere, who invented this idea!!!!!

Puller on the bearings and out they came.

Elessar, how come you paid an engineer and he missed the worn steering pin, then didnt seal up the wires, they have a special loom with a grommet in 2 halves of a circle tht seals through the shield on a taper, and your 220s are fairly easy to get round compared to a yanmar on a bravo 3 shield.

You will have to bite the bullit, id personally fit a new shield then you wont have the grief in future years, in fact while your going all the way get them both out and fit both, shop around ther are some great deals on new parts at the moment, if you want to know who I use send me a pm.

Im in Shamrock in the morning so may look you up.

fishing for work Paul?

Elessar, in all seriousness, I can highly recommend VP!

 

[volvopaul]

fishing for work Paul?

Elessar, in all seriousness, I can highly recommend VP!

Thanks James, but no got more on than I can handle at moment, generally most engineers are very busy now.

 

[Seahope]

Then today 2 bravo 2 drives off and I get my feet wet, as the bellows full of water and gimball bearings shot and seized up, corroded salt crystals everywhere, who invented this idea!!!!!

Puller on the bearings and out they came.

Well, I guess I am lucky that the engines didn't need to come out to fix this problem for me. I've met the guy who fitted my engines (another Formite) and his arm mussels are the size of tree trunks! I can only assume he developed them whilst man handling my engines in such a compact space

 

[EugeneR]

Then today 2 bravo 2 drives off and I get my feet wet, as the bellows full of water and gimball bearings shot and seized up, corroded salt crystals everywhere, who invented this idea!!!!!

I was told that there is an issue with recent-ish Mercruiser bellows and that Mercruiser has to pick up the cost of consequential damage caused.

 

[bumpy_the_dog]

"I read things like this then remember I hate boats"

No not boats.......just feccccckikkng outdrives.....piles of total s***e.

Sorry to hear of your problems,brings my experiences back big time and the older the outdrives the more the bits start to go wrong.

I too am sorry for your troubles. I'm looking at boats to buy at the moment, and although I'd pretty much settled on twin shafts I was becoming increasingly tempted by some cooler, funkier boats with outdrives. This post reminded me, never, never, never mix second hand outdrives and salt water.

 

[Elessar]

Well i've nearly got the transom shields off. Should be finished tomorrow.

It has been a pig of a job, I needed to keep costs down and do it myself. It's an engine out job really but to do that I need to dismantle quite a lot of the boat, some of the joins are teaked over etc. So I needed to think of a bodge.....

What I did was cut 2 holes in the floor of the rear transom locker above each engine. I put a beam across to spread the load and wedged a vertical bit of wood in underneath, down to the engine bearer.

Then, using the kedge anchor chain shackled onto the engine then up through the two holes and over the top of a trolley jack resting on the bit of wood.

The engine was then lifted a few inches , and another jack used to push the engine forward. There wasn't much clearance so I had to take the heat exchanger off.

It was still a pig reaching under the engine. It would be done save for one of the exhaust bolts which needs a 2" long 3/4" drive extension which was at home.

The port transom shield should therefore be out early tomorrow and the sbd one a little longer as one of the engine mounting bolts has seized, and spun the captive nut in the transom shield so I need to cut it off.

Once I have them out we can see how much needs replacing. I'll post some pics then.

Very sore and dirty, but I now have wine in my hand.

 

[crazy4557]

Well i've nearly got the transom shields off. Should be finished tomorrow.

It has been a pig of a job, I needed to keep costs down and do it myself. It's an engine out job really but to do that I need to dismantle quite a lot of the boat, some of the joins are teaked over etc. So I needed to think of a bodge.....

What I did was cut 2 holes in the floor of the rear transom locker above each engine. I put a beam across to spread the load and wedged a vertical bit of wood in underneath, down to the engine bearer.

Then, using the kedge anchor chain shackled onto the engine then up through the two holes and over the top of a trolley jack resting on the bit of wood.

The engine was then lifted a few inches , and another jack used to push the engine forward. There wasn't much clearance so I had to take the heat exchanger off.

It was still a pig reaching under the engine. It would be done save for one of the exhaust bolts which needs a 2" long 3/4" drive extension which was at home.

The port transom shield should therefore be out early tomorrow and the sbd one a little longer as one of the engine mounting bolts has seized, and spun the captive nut in the transom shield so I need to cut it off.

Once I have them out we can see how much needs replacing. I'll post some pics then.

Very sore and dirty, but I now have wine in my hand.

Sounds a sod of a job...hope it goes well in the end.

 

[Elessar]

Sounds a sod of a job...hope it goes well in the end.

Cheers Andy 1 out 1 to go.

Batteries ok on yours? I didnt test them after the replacement pumping mine sort of took over.......

 

[crazy4557]

Cheers Andy 1 out 1 to go.

Batteries ok on yours? I didnt test them after the replacement pumping mine sort of took over.......

Yes thanks but one small glitch but I'll talk later about that.

 

[Elessar]

Second transom shield is out. The first was a walk in the park..........

One of the engine to transom shield bolts was very tight. I put a bar on it and the captive nut in the transom shield spun.

It is impossible to grip the nut.

So I cut off the top of the bolt. This took hours due to the access. The hacksaw has about 6 worn teeth and the rest of it is pristine. It would have been better to cut the bolt lower down but this wasn't possible as there was no access at all.

Tried to lift the engine but it wouldn't budge. The collar on the top of the bolt was seized on.

So I drilled down the top of the bolt with increasing size drills until the collar popped off.

The engine then lifted about half an inch before the top of the coupler contacted the transom shield. Can't slide the engine back because it is still engaged in the stub of the bolt.

I do now however have access to the bolt lower down. I move the engines apart by about 4" at the front giving me a luxurious amount of room. I can acces the bolt with 1 arm, lying on my right shoulder but with my feet either draped over an engine or sticking out of the engine bay. It's such an uncomfortable position I cant work for more than about 10 minutes at a time.

So I cut the bolt but it took 4 hours.

The engine was then moved back (jack between engine and transom) and lifted (trolley jack in aft locker) The transom shield then took about 20 minutes to remove.

I will now get the transom shield taken apart as I don't have the specialist tools and anyway it's a very busy time of year business wise.

Next installment once the transom shields are apart.

 

[Elessar]

Ok so Col rebuilt the transom shields over the weekend. He is a star.

Got one in yesterday, bit of a fiddle getting the shield in on your own, especially keeping the new shield/transom seal in its slot. Must have gone engine room, climb up, climb over engine hatch, climb over transom door, clim down ladder, reverse 20 times or more just doing the transom shield up.

Getting the exhaust on with the engine in the way is hard too. The lower two bolts need to be held in place with some silicone, let it set. Then wiggle the exhaust into place, loosely do up the easier to access top bolts then the bottom two, already in place, can be done up, the torque easily breaks the silicon seal.

The engine was then lifted again, the wooden block thrown away, pushed stern wards and lowered. All bolt done up and hey presto.

2nd shield is loosely bolted into place. Start at 6 tomorrow, tighten shield, fit exhaust, fit water intakes, lift engine, move, lower, bolt.

Then align engines, fit outdrives, paint them, adjust trim gauge and trim limit senders.

Launch is booked for last lift tomorrow. After that refit heat exchangers, all cabling and pipework.

3 students on board 9 am Saturday. Will I make it? We'll see. Wiggos boat penciled just in case not.

What a lot of work to replace a worn pin, shows really poor design. Some engineer must have signed off the design and said, yup, that will do. Shame on him.

 

[Andrew_Fanner]

>>>
What a lot of work to replace a worn pin, shows really poor design. Some engineer must have signed off the design and said, yup, that will do
>>>
Maybe he (or his "cousin") owned a marine engineering firm?

I like the technical idea of outdrives, and by extension, pods, but the practical aspects of ownership horrify me.

 

[Elessar]

So the launch was booked for 1600. Last lift before Monday. I started at 0430 and worked flat out. At 1530 I put 2 bungs in the water inlets as they were the only essential pre launch job unfinished, and had her launched. Big leak from the port exhaust as I'd forgotten to put the jubilee clips on, soon rectified, otherwise dry.

Port engine raw water nowinstalled, sbd 95% done. Steering installed. I've now sat down for a rest.

Interesting fitting the raw water system with the boat afloat. Once the bung was out a lot of water came in. A reminder how much faith we put in rubber pipes and jubilee clips.

Also interesting was that the port engine, re installed in the same place with no mount adjustments was perfectly aligned.

The sbd engine too, but that needed the front of the engine to be lowered on the mounts by over 1/2" to get the alignment right. The adjustment screws definately hadn't moved, and by the look of them had never moved. Couldn't fathom that.

So it looks like I've made it, against the odds. I have 3 students expecting to be picked up at 9 am on Saturday. So a big clean tomorrow and hoping I haven't overlooked anything major.

 

[PaulGooch]

Been an interesting read, hope the rest goes well and Saturday goes without a hitch.