Clinker Maintenance - Advice Please

[TidewayMan]

I own a '74 Walker Tideway Super 12 (best looking small boat or what?). Although I've been pottering in dinghies for nearly 10 years, my knowledge of boats is limited, and I would much appreciate your advice on the following maintenance issues:

1. How often should I undertake this flippin rub-down and varnish business? I don't mind the varnishing, but the preparation has taken days!

2. How many coats of varnish should I aim for? I'm using traditional one-pack for flexibility.

3. Can I roll the boat over to treat the outside of the hull without causing excessive structural movement? Any special precautions?

4. The ribs are all sound (I've had them all replaced) but there are a couple of cracked planks. If they need sealing, what should I use?

5. The gaff is shaped like a banana, which adds character, but not performance. What kind/ grade of wood should I use to make a new one?

6. The sails are pretty grubby, especially the mainsail, which has a sizeable oily stain. How should I clean them without causing damage?

7. Should I treat the inside of the centreboard housing with anything? (Please say no!)

I know the above is a fair list, but any contributions gratefully received.

 

[Skyva_2]

Having owned a varnished clinker Merlin Rocket I can sympathise. They look very pretty but are a lot of work. Unfortunately its all in the preparation.

You don't say if you are taking the varnish right back to the wood, this may be necessary depending on the condition. However, its essential to get a smooth flat surface and remove any areas of flaking and discoloration. I would reckon on doing this every 2-3 years depending on how much the boat is used and the wear and tear created. However this was for racing, so you may get away with less often. Number of coats - 4 to 6 depending on how much rubbing back you do between coats to get a good finish. First coat thinned 10%.

If the boat is stored inside for the winter its a huge benefit.

Every year its worth rubbing back and putting on 2 coats on the hull.

I rolled my boat over completely with two people - dont know how much a Tideway weighs but if its very heavy it will probably stand being rolled on to soft pads to get at the hull.

I would use 2 pack epoxy with filler on cracks.

Wood for spars could be mahogany, but talk to a boatbuilder to check. Collar Masts is at 01865 247780, they may also have advice on varnishing.
You can wash sails gently in eg Fairy liquid, try Swarfega on the stain.
The centreboard case is up to you - it can be done with a long handled brush, but rubbing down is a *****. You could apply wood preserver if there is any danger of rot due to bare surfaces.

Hope this helps,
Keith

 

[Peterduck]

1. How often you varnish depends on how quickly the existing coat degrades. If you keep the boat indoors in a dark shed, then you will not need to do it very often at all. If you leave it on a beach all year round, expect to do it often. Ultra-violet light kills varnish.
2. If there is only one or two coats of varnish on the boat, you'll never finish doing it; if you start out with six coats and build up from there, you would not need to do it more tahn annually. Be guided by the condtion of the existing varnish. If it strating to show signs of wear, cracking, etc, get straight on to it! Assume that it is all gone and that you have to start building up your varnish layer. The one-pack is good stuff, but also get some information on Sikken's Cetol; it is very durable.
3. Rolling over is a two-person job; one to start the roll lifting the boat on to its beam ends, the other to receive it, lying it down on tis stem and transom. It's much easier to work on the bottom while it is inverted.
4. Firstly, drill a tiny hole at each end of the cracks to stop them from going any further. If the cracks are fine, run some liquid epoxy resin into them. Tape the other side of the plank from which you are working so that the resin doesn't just run right through. A saturating resin, such as International's "Everdure" would be a good starting point, to be followed after curing by a more viscous resin which will bridge any gap remaining.
5. Douglas Fir is the best compromise between ideal [Sitka Spruce] and affordable [Monterey Pine]. Look for a lack of knots or other defects, and fine grain [i.e. closely spaced growth rings, better than about 15 per inch. also straight grain, not waving around all over the place.
6. Wash your sails with laundry detergent. The oily stain may benefit from a concentrated solution of detergent and some elbow grease. Don't let the elbow grease drip onto the sail!
7. Yes! Two totally different ways to go, and I think that both are good in their own way. [a] saurating epoxy resin, e.g. "Everdure", or Stockhlom Tar, thinned with Linseed oil. In each case, application by a small roller on a long stick may be the easiest way to go.

Best of Luck,
Peter.

 

[spark]

Cracks in clinker planks, no matter how fine, are more than just annoying leaks. A crack in a clinker plank puts undue strain on the adjacent planks and frames.
Peter Duck's advice is sound enough if the cracks a genuinely 'hairline' and short (up to 3" ish) and/or not all the way through the plank. Otherwise filling with epoxy is only a temporary repair to keep the water out. Ususally the plank needs a structural repair or replacement if other problems (cracks in adjacent planks along nail lines; cracked frames) are to be avoided in future.

If the plank is in good condition (apart from the crack) and the crack is in a place where you can get at it with a router (from the outside, that is) then the best bet is to cut a slot along the line of the crack with the router. The slot should bridge the crack (I typically use a 1" router bit) and the depth of the slot should be approximately half the thickness of the plank. Cut a wooden spline to fit the slot(ideally the same type of wood as the plank) but a bit thicker than required, and glue it into the slot using epoxy (if the plank is absolutely dry) or Balcotan (if damp). masking tape over the crack on the inside will keep the glue in the joint and panel pins (bore pilot holes for them) are sometimes handy to hold the spline in place while the glue is drying, especially if there is a bend to deal with.
When the glue is dry remove the pins, dress off the spline flush with the plank, plug the pin holes.
I have had a lot of success reviving old dinghies with this method where plank replacement would have cost much more than the boat was worth.
If, however, the crack in the plank is long and wide and/or the general condition of the plank is poor (worn, brittle, etc.) then replacement of the plank is the only long-term amswer.

 

[TidewayMan]

Very many thanks for your thoughtful replies Keith, Peter and Spark.

Plenty of food for thought, and nice to know that I am on the right track with the varnishing (six coats inside now, and ready to roll!). Only matter that's still troubling me is plank cracks. I like the 'rout and spline/ splint idea', but it's probably not for me, as the cracks are generally too close to the adjoining planks. Most of them are small and fine, and do not appear to have affected adjacent planks - perhaps because they are well above the waterline, where the hull is flatter, and therefore under less stress. There is one fairly bad one below the waterline, which does not appear to have induced damage elsewhere, but did require a temporary smear of silicon last season. The one that's really bothering me, though, is around 700mm long. Although it's fine, it does seem to have induced a 250mm crack in the adjacent plank. Doh!

Because of lack of time and money, I'll have to simply monitor the situation for now. I'll mark each end of each crack with a small blob of paint and watch for changes. I'll also take a few pics.

Meanwhile, anyone know what to expect to pay for replacement planks? I take it this is not a DIY job?

Thanks again,

Regards,

Kim (TidewayMan)

 

[spark]

Replacing planks can be a DIY job but probably only after you've seen it done. I usually allow a day for each new plank in a wee boat. Sometimes they are easier than that, sometimes more difficult. Say £120 labour plus £30 for materials. (I'm not touting for business btw - more than enough to keep me busy at the moment and I'm probably too far away from anyway).

If youre not going to replace or spline the cracked planks I would take a sharp chisel and cut a narrow "V" along the line of the cracks. 1/8" wide at the surface is plenty - depth should be about half the thickness of the plank. Fill the "V" with thickened epoxy held in place with masking tape. Quick to do, will keep the water out and definitely better than just 'monitoring'.