Chocblocks

[PabloPicasso]

Hi all

When I bought my boat some connections used chocblock connecters.

I have removed most now.

What are the best alternatives?

Wago, busbars, those heat shrinks with solder in, what should we use?

 

[PaulRainbow]

Hi all

When I bought my boat some connections used chocblock connecters.

I have removed most now.

What are the best alternatives?

Wago, busbars, those heat shrinks with solder in, what should we use?

Best choice of connector often depends on the application.

Do not use those heatshrink connectors with solder in them, they are total rubbish.

 

[Boathook]

I'm using a lot of wago's now for low power stuff. Busbars have their place for lots of cables plus crimp connections as these fittings are on a lot of switches, etc.

 

[Sea Change]

As a direct replacement, wago are good.

A decent crimp connection should be good too.

In all cases, you don't really want any connections in areas where you expect damp and corrosion to be a problem.

 

[Sea Change]

Best choice of connector often depends on the application.

Do not use those heatshrink connectors with solder in them, they are total rubbish.

Are the solder connectors too brittle? Just curious, I've never used them.

 

[Stemar]

Are the solder connectors too brittle? Just curious, I've never used them.

It may just be incompetence, but when I tried them, I couldn't get them hot enough to melt the solder without burning the insulation. It might be different with a mains hot air gun, but on board, all I had was a flame. Heat shrink crimps are much easier are perfectly effective, and a lifetime's supply will cost less than a tenner. If they're going to get wet, add a length of black heatshrink over the join for insurance.

 

[PaulRainbow]

The solder ones seem to melt before the solder, as Stemar said. They look OK when used, but pull them and they come apart.

In most cases, where a crimp connector is suitable i use standard ones, no heat shrink. They are inexpensive, quick to use and work well.

If it's in an area where it might get wet, or even damp, i use glue lined, heat shrink crimp connectors. Just crimp them in place and warm them up with a hot air gun or a gas torch (think creme brulee) torch ).

I also use different types of busbars and some Wagos, as well as the odd solder and heat shrink job. Never use choc blocks.

 

[PabloPicasso]

I've used solder heatshrinks to extend thos hairthin data cables. I use a gas flame mini soldering iron, and flux the wire ends before inserting them and heating. I can control the heat with the size of flame, depending on the size of the joint.

I've found wagos very good too. Especially for things that may need to be taken apart for maintenence.

Yes, make connections in a dry area if at all possible

There are heatshrinks with a glue sealant in them too, but I've not used those. Might be useful in areas more liable to damp???

If I use crimps I like to cover with heatshrink. Gives insulation, helps hold the crimps together, and can give greater strength to the joint too.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

If I use crimps I like to cover with heatshrink. Gives insulation, helps hold the crimps together, and can give greater strength to the joint too.

Or use glue lined heatshrink crimp connectors - less kerfuffle...

Index Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Crimp Butt Connectors

Don't pay chandlery prices though.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I've also used Wago connectors, which are good.

 

[andsarkit]

If you are going to use choc blocks there are ones with a wire protection leaf and non rusting screws. I think the Index marine ones are like this and can be satisfactory inside a box with cable gland strain relief on the wires.

I have used quite a few miniature (15mm) DIN rail spring loaded terminals which don't have a screw to work loose. Wago 264 are the ones I used which allow wire insertion from the top rather than poking a wire into a hole you can't see.
Wago They make for a very compact installation and you can get double ones to distribute power to 3 outputs.(1 in 3 out).

Also recommend you use ferrules on smaller wires. Lidl had a nice reasonably priced kit complete with crimp tool a few months ago.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Are the solder connectors too brittle? Just curious, I've never used them.

3 reasons why solder in joints is a bad idea:

1) Solder creeps. If you put a soldered wire in a crimp or screw down connector over time it will come loose from creep and fail.

2) A soldered stranded wire has a hard hinge point in it where the solder ends. If this is unsupported it can fatigue under vibration or repeated flexure and break

3) Flux residue is hygroscopic and will absorb water in damp environments. It is then corrosive.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Also recommend you use ferrules on smaller wires. Lidl had a nice reasonably priced kit complete with crimp tool a few months ago.

... and bigger ones. They grip better, keep the strands together and provide strain relief.

 

[Refueler]

I have a large box of varied sized Heatshrink solder connectors. I have watched loads of videos where they do the job brilliantly.

I have tried so many different heat ways to get them to work and NONE have proved anywhere even remotely successful. The moment you start to think about pulling to test - wire comes out. I've even left to go stone cold after serious heat .. same .. wire pulls out as if nothing there.

I admit I do use chocblocks but I also use Wago's ... the only thing I have about Wago's - is I wish they could have the tabs 180 deg to each other - so the cable is a straight line instead of both entering same side.

 

[doug748]

If you are going to use choc blocks there are ones with a wire protection leaf and non rusting screws. I think the Index marine ones are like this and can be satisfactory inside a box with cable gland strain relief on the wires.

I have used quite a few miniature (15mm) DIN rail spring loaded terminals which don't have a screw to work loose. Wago 264 are the ones I used which allow wire insertion from the top rather than poking a wire into a hole you can't see.
Wago They make for a very compact installation and you can get double ones to distribute power to 3 outputs.(1 in 3 out).

Also recommend you use ferrules on smaller wires. Lidl had a nice reasonably priced kit complete with crimp tool a few months ago.

Yes, I think choc blocks have a bad rap over the years, provided the right kit is used sensibly, they can be fine.

Wago type connectors were designed for quick fixing mains wiring, they can be ok but are bulky and can be awkward and unhandy unless you have a range available, which is not convenient for the average DIY'er.

Those ferrules sound excellent. I will look out for them.

.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I have a large box of varied sized Heatshrink solder connectors. I have watched loads of videos where they do the job brilliantly.

I have tried so many different heat ways to get them to work and NONE have proved anywhere even remotely successful. The moment you start to think about pulling to test - wire comes out. I've even left to go stone cold after serious heat .. same .. wire pulls out as if nothing there.

I admit I do use chocblocks but I also use Wago's ... the only thing I have about Wago's - is I wish they could have the tabs 180 deg to each other - so the cable is a straight line instead of both entering same side.

Inline splicing connector with levers (221-2411) | WAGO GB

 

[Gustywinds]

It may just be incompetence, but when I tried them, I couldn't get them hot enough to melt the solder without burning the insulation. It might be different with a mains hot air gun, but on board, all I had was a flame. Heat shrink crimps are much easier are perfectly effective, and a lifetime's supply will cost less than a tenner. If they're going to get wet, add a length of black heatshrink over the join for insurance.

You need a heat gun with a shield that goes round the back of the wire to reflect the heat. I’ve used them perfectly satisfactorily for applications where I couldn’t get in with a soldering iron. For general terminal type work, I use Wagos

 

[Refueler]

Inline splicing connector with levers (221-2411) | WAGO GB

Tks ... but like everything - you can get in your shops .. but over here - all I see are the type I mentioned ... unless I order online.

 

[LittleSister]

Yes, I think choc blocks have a bad rap over the years, provided the right kit is used sensibly, they can be fine.

I was thinking about this the other day, for some reason.

Choc-bloc connectors seem an abomination, but I can't actually remember ever having a failure from one of them. Obviously not what you'd want to see on a new luxury 50ft mobo, or connecting up clever digital equipment or anything with high current, but in the past they've often featured prominently in the motley collection of small (miniature by today's standards) MABs I've owned in the past, and given very satisfactory, if aesthetically unpleasing, service for lighting wiring etc. (and others at a push) They're easy to use even by the unskilled, cheap as chips, will accommodate a wide range of wire types and sizes, don't need special tools, can be re-used, etc. While I can see they're in principle prone to problems, in my experience they've actually proved remarkably reliable.

Many decades ago I used to work wiring up electronic equipment - mainly telecoms gear, plus railway signalling centres, telephone exchanges, etc. Eventually I was doing quality control of others' wiring of state-of-the-art, absolutely cutting-edge technology, hand-built to the highest standards electronics for the military, university science departments and even NASA (the American space agency, not the Brit budget marine instruments outfit). There is no way anything remotely resembling any of the various connectors mentioned in the thread above would be allowed within a hundred yards of that equipment - there were a wide variety of connection techniques, depending upon purpose (and which will likely all have changed in the intervening period), but they were built by skilled trained people with a wide range of power and hand tools and customs-made jigs to hand, in almost sterile, brightly lit conditions, and crucially almost without regard to cost.

None of those techniques would have been any use whatsoever for Captain Bodger trying to get his nav lights working again, or rigging up some temporary lighting over a dead engine, while hanging upside down in the bilges, or at arms length in the back of a locker, while the boat rolls along on some dark rainy night.

By all means use better connectors, selected for the particular job, when you can, but maybe keep a few choc-bloc connectors in the bottom of your toolbox?

 

[Sea Change]

My problem with choc-blocks is that the screws can get corroded and seize up. I've had to cut off more choc-blocks than I've managed to undo. They also mess up the end of the wire, unless you've got the better quality ones with a plate.