Chart table best finish

steveeasy

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Ok I’ve removed the original Formica chart table and made a new one with veneer epoxied to plywood.
Now I’m not sure how to finish it. Ideally needs to be waterproof. I was keen to have a Matt finish. So should I give it a coat or two of epoxy then sand. And if so will using int gold spar leave it with a Matt finish or shall I just apply epifaines clear varnish. I’ve got both but not sure what would be best.
Your thoughts appreciated.
Steveeasy
 

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Tranona

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Just doing exactly the same job with oak veneer onto a ply backing then glued straight onto the formica. Finishing with this toolstation.com/polyurethane-varnish/p27743 Chose it because it is recommended for kitchen worktops as I am doing the same for the galley worktop so wanted tard wearing and waterproof. Looks OK so far with first couple of coats on a trial piece but obviously time will tell.

photo shows one of the ppanels with 2 coats and the trial piece with 3 coats.
 

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ash2020

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DanTribe

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This looks interesting, I usually use Ronseal or Rustins but will give this a go. Was it marketed by Julian & Sandy from Round The Horne?
 

AngusMcDoon

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My cockpit table done with Ronseal Diamond Hard satin floor varnish. I didn't choose it because I knew that it would be good but rather because I found some lurking in my shed. 5 coats. Being water based it dries quickly and clean up is easy.

IMG-20231218-WA0008.jpeg

This was done with International traditional gloss yacht varnish. 12 coats in all. It's slow drying, especially the later coats, and took a month to do.

601460352-IMG-20200308-WA0007.jpg
Cleanup needs white spirit, but it smells great.
 

steveeasy

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My cockpit table done with Ronseal Diamond Hard satin floor varnish. I didn't choose it because I knew that it would be good but rather because I found some lurking in my shed. 5 coats. Being water based it dries quickly and clean up is easy.

View attachment 174305

This was done with International traditional gloss yacht varnish. 12 coats in all. It's slow drying, especially the later coats, and took a month to do.

View attachment 174306
Cleanup needs white spirit, but it smells great.
Cockpit table looks great, really want a satin/Matt finish.

Trying to use the products I’ve bought recently and wondered if I could seal the veneer with polyester resin and after sanding coat with the goldspar satin varnish. Of course if that does not make sense I’ll skip the idea.

Steveeasy
 

Daydream believer

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Sadolins PV67. I did 14 tables for our club a couple of seasons pre covid. Still going strong, inspite of the usual hard use & abuse. look good.
I stripped to bare wood by scraping & sanding, stained as needed, applied a coat of shellac to hold back the silicones & prevent fisheye, then 2 coats of PV67, applied by roller ( to the tops but brush to the moulded legs & trims) & layered off with very fine brush immeditaely
 

AngusMcDoon

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Cockpit table looks great, really want a satin/Matt finish.

Trying to use the products I’ve bought recently and wondered if I could seal the veneer with polyester resin and after sanding coat with the goldspar satin varnish. Of course if that does not make sense I’ll skip the idea.

Steveeasy

The varnish may not bond well to the resin and flake off. Imagine varnishing gelcoat on fibreglass - I don't think it would give a good durable finish.

Using water based floor varnish is easy even to do multiple coats as it dries quickly, unlike the traditional gloss varnish which took days to dry between the upper coats. Water based varnish doesn't look great after the earlier coats on bare wood but rapidly gets better after the later ones. I did a single fine sand after the 2nd coat but didn't sand between coats after that. After sanding I used a tack cloth to remove dust. After applying the varnish I tipped it using just the brush dragging it across the wet varnish with the brush at 45 degree angle and the only pressure being the weight of the brush itself. It's worth spending £10 on a decent brush and using it only for varnish, and of course do it in a clean place with dust minimised. Sand in one place and varnish in another.
 

salar

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Here's a table I made, finished in satin Epiphanes. This is the original build photo, and it has seen service for the past 10 years and not a flake or chip on it. Very happy with the finish.

crew seat2.jpg
table.jpg

Teak faced ply edged with teak hockey stick mouldings. Easy to get a good finish. First coat of Epiphases was thinned, then subsequent coats applied and sanded lightly between coats until I was happy with the finish.
 
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