causeway
Member
Only problem I've had is bleeding the dam thing. Ended up using an oil pumper outer, sorted it in seconds. I'm going to carry some large bore syringes for the job next time.
CAV Fuel filters
- Thread starter RobBrown
- Start date
Only problem I've had is bleeding the dam thing. Ended up using an oil pumper outer, sorted it in seconds. I'm going to carry some large bore syringes for the job next time.
Daydream believer
Well-known member
I fitted a bellows pump in the fuel line ( rated for diesel) makes it dead easy to bleed as it blows the fuel through both filters immediately & no need to use the engine lift pump
slipknot
Member
+1. Easy peasy.
alan17
New member
What I should add to my earlier post is that I have on/off taps in the pipelines either side of the CAV filters and the filters are located below the fuel level in the tank. Therefore I can isolate the filters from the supply, change the filters and then open the tap that will allow fuel into the filters, open the bleed screws, close the screws when fuel comes out at the bleed point, open the tap allowing fuel to flow to the engine. Job done
Kelpie
Well-known member
Is that similar to a bulb primer, or is it something else?
slipknot
Member
Yes, its a bulb primer like you would find on an outboard motor fuel line. Except spec'd for diesel use. I bought mine off eBay. Makes filter changes, and bleeding afterwards, a very easy job.
brianhumber
New member
+2
Simply do not understand why people are having troubles
The CAV 296 would not have been been sold and fitted to 100,000 of engine installations worldwide over many decades if it was difficult to change. I have had to change ones fitted in accessible locations and in accessible locations needing a mirror to see to get the parts aligned correctly for assembly since I first went to sea in the early 70s. Apart from cleanliness and a modicum of care in reassembly, the only point to note is that rubber ring between body and glass can squeeze out if the clamping bolt has been overtightened.
Only last week responded to a panic wail from someone that an engine filter was dripping diesel when running and he had to re-bleed the engine to start it. The bolt had been overtightened by at least 5 turns so the poor little O ring on the bolthead was shredded, the glass bowl rim chipped by the excessive clamping pressure and the rubber ring between the element body and glass bowl squeezed out at the back. £2 for a new filter element and £9 new glass bowl with new sealing rings, 5 minutes fitting time and engine was running again leak free.
Brian
Daydream believer
Well-known member
Made worse by the fact that all the filters i have tried all seem too small- delphi, New Holland, Perkins etc- & one only has to put the slightest pressure on for it to distort
& yes!!! - I am putting the correct ring on
RivalRedwing
Well-known member
If you want a cheap alternative then you can get a CAV 496 which is a spin-on head and filter. Used by Land Rover and the like, far cheaper than Racor... Whole assembly costs £16, filters £6
WoodyP
Well-known member
I got shouted down on a previous thread for being happy with a CAV. Cheap and cheerful, not complicated but had to change to an alloy bowl because the insurers inspection didn't like a glass bowl.
RivalRedwing
Well-known member
Delphi shouldn't be - they are the OE manufacturer (= Lucas' new name)
scottie
Well-known member
Most likely because the glass bowl is not the most common of set ups
Daydream believer
Well-known member
Trouble is that one would want to see if there is water collecting without having to drain fluid off to check
but now you have mentioned it i will try the original metal bowl for size comparison
