Captain Tolley Window sealer

[pappaecho]

I have just bought 250 mls of his finest product, but there seems scant instructions. Anybody had practical use of it>
For example, how do you remove moisture sealed under the glass/rubber seal, or does the Captain Tolley solution scavange the moisture. How may applications to seal the leak?

 

[prv]

I used it quite successfully on Kindred Spirit's windows. Originally it was going to be a temporary fix until I could take them out and rebed them, but in practice it was still doing the job two years later when we sold the boat.

It's a thin, flowing liquid rather like milk. The idea is that you dribble it on and it follows the same path as the water, then dries out leaving a residue behind. I applied three or four good doses, leaving a few minutes between each. You know when it's done as no more will flow into the crack (cos it's sealed) and it just runs off the outside instead.

I don't know about the moisture question.

Pete

 

[pampas]

Will last for years, don't apply when is raining, capillary action is all that's needed, on the inside wipe any leakage or dribbles up, rather hard when dry. best thing since sliced bread.

 

[PetiteFleur]

It did not work on the windows on my first boat - a Vivacity 20..........

 

[Alpha22]

It's a thin, flowing liquid rather like milk.

It's a thin, flowing liquid rather like diluted PVA glue..... which perhaps it is???

 

[superheat6k]

Sealed a weeping rudder securing bolt on OB took apporx 6 or 8 applications over a week period, but not a weep since.

The bottle fell over on the bathroom shelf, leaving a thick plastic matt that was a bugger to clean off, tough as old boots when set.

Not sure it has any water displacing qualities, so perhaps dry gently with a hairdryer on low first.

 

[JumbleDuck]

I found it useless for leaks past my Westerly seals. I think it was for the reason prv implies: it works (when it does) by following the path water would take and drying out on teh way. However, if there is water in there - pooling at the bottom of a U-section seal, say - it never dries out and never works.

 

[SHUG]

Just keep applying it periodically (allow time for curing) until it will not take any more. Sorted.

 

[Mistroma]

I found it useless for leaks past my Westerly seals. I think it was for the reason prv implies: it works (when it does) by following the path water would take and drying out on teh way. However, if there is water in there - pooling at the bottom of a U-section seal, say - it never dries out and never works.

I used it many years ago before getting around to replacing the rather large windows on my old Southerly 95. First test on one window was useless due to trapped moisture. It never cured but did dribble white liquid down inside when it rained. I tried again after a long hot dry spell and leak was gone, even when rinsing that window with a hose. Applied it to remaining windows towards end of the dry spell and cured all the leaks for quite a few years.

I did eventually replace the windows due to scratches & crazing but no leaks. Good product as long as no water inside the gap you are trying to seal.

I only needed it once and so still have the original bottle on board. I did a test last year and it still seems to set, so worth keeping for a quick fix if I get a minor leak under a fitting. I seem to remember that it was an acrylic polymer dispersed in water that was completely miscible with water. i.e. My bottle must be around 10-15 years old and hasn't set. So it doesn't go off in presence of water (the liquid in the bottle already contains water). Might not be the same stuff these days but I'd be surprised if it was radically different.

 

[Alan ashore]

I bought this product once a couple or three decades ago and did not find it useful, for reasons well stated by other posters.
I was then steered towards Burgess Crackseal, which I found to be a far superior product, quickly joining the select few things that I make sure to always have "in stock". This too is a thin clear liquid which insinuates itself into the crack by capillary action, but (...wait for it...) Crackseal absolutely loves wet conditions.
I have applied Crackseal at sea to dripping windows, and it has fixed them. 'nuff said?

A.

 

[nigelmercier]

It's a thin, flowing liquid rather like diluted PVA glue..... which perhaps it is???

More likely to be low viscosity cyanoacrylate...

http://amzn.to/1rgIkwC
http://amzn.to/Qw3rOw

 

[Giblets]

I bought this product once a couple or three decades ago and did not find it useful, for reasons well stated by other posters.
I was then steered towards Burgess Crackseal, which I found to be a far superior product, quickly joining the select few things that I make sure to always have "in stock". This too is a thin clear liquid which insinuates itself into the crack by capillary action, but (...wait for it...) Crackseal absolutely loves wet conditions.
I have applied Crackseal at sea to dripping windows, and it has fixed them. 'nuff said?

A.

Another vote for Burgess Marine Creepy Crackseal. Most competitive price I found was here http://flytesofancy.co.uk/chickenhouses/Clearsealer_for_Henhouses.html. Far cheaper than marine suppliers. :encouragement:

 

[Mistroma]

More likely to be low viscosity cyanoacrylate...

http://amzn.to/1rgIkwC
http://amzn.to/Qw3rOw

Pretty certain the old bottle I have isn't cyanoacrylate based. It doesn't smell like a cyanoacrylate, doesn't set when moisture present and has a long shelf life (>10 years).

 

[VicS]

More likely to be low viscosity cyanoacrylate...

http://amzn.to/1rgIkwC
http://amzn.to/Qw3rOw

Pretty certain the old bottle I have isn't cyanoacrylate based. It doesn't smell like a cyanoacrylate, doesn't set when moisture present and has a long shelf life (>10 years).

It is an aqueous dispersion of styrene – acrylic acid ester copolymer !

Read all about it http://www.captaintolley.com/index.html

All necessary instructions about cleanliness and dryness are there !

 

[Mistroma]

It is an aqueous dispersion of styrene – acrylic acid ester copolymer !

Read all about it http://www.captaintolley.com/index.html

All necessary instructions about cleanliness and dryness are there !

Thanks for that, a case of RTFM. I was just relying on memory when I said "I seem to remember that it was an acrylic polymer dispersed in water and was completely miscible with water." in post #9

The website confirms that: "Chemical Nature: an aqueous dispersion of styrene – acrylic acid ester copolymer".

Crackseal sounds like a useful product as moisture is Captain Tolley's Achilles heel.

 

[ianj99]

I have just bought 250 mls of his finest product, but there seems scant instructions. Anybody had practical use of it>
For example, how do you remove moisture sealed under the glass/rubber seal, or does the Captain Tolley solution scavange the moisture. How may applications to seal the leak?

I used to effectively seal my wheelhouse windows. The front 3 were removed completely and sealed all round with many applications of Tolley.

If there is moisture present gentle drying with a hot air gun, hairdryer or swmbo having a nag (!) to remove it is necessary.
I

 

[pappaecho]

Thanks to all. Looks like will have to wait until dry weather, and use a hairdryer to remove last traces of moisture. Failing that then will try Burgess Crackseal.
Leaking hatch seal to window is only 3 years old...
Thanks to all