BVI must see/avoid places

[RichardS]

The Chris Doyle BVI Guide mentioned the cave swimming (the Pirate Caves) on Norman Island which we enjoyed but warned "Do not feed the fish as this makes them aggressive"

I've remembered that for 10 years as it seemed such an odd warning!

Richard

 

[TSB240]

Fish Feeding

This is a no no.

Seems they have been over doing it in the Red Sea.

The sharks are now being attracted into shallow waters by the noise of smaller fish in a feeding frenzy.

Also they have been fed by hand by dive guides.

They now have an appetite for chewing off peoples limbs.The dead mutton was just a red herring!

We had our 25th wedding anniversary at the BVIs. Anegada and PYO lobster was the highlight for us.

Our teenage daughter was with us. You would hardly have known it as she went out at night about the time we were going to sleep. She usually returned about the time we woke and then slept all day!

 

[FistralG]

I spent 2 weeks in the BVI's in November (1 week sailing and an extra 5 nights at Myatts in Cane Garden Bay).
There are two pieces of advice that I was given that I feel were the most valuable.

1. Get a copy of "The drinking man's guide to the BVI" its definitely worth hunting out as it has details of all the bars and restaurants around the islands with contact details. Not only that but it is an entertaining read with interesting facts about the establishment or the people that run them, their signature drink and, most importantly, vouchers for free drinks. We recouped the value of the book ($14.95) in free drinks after 2 bars visited!

2. Visit Anegada... it is very different to the other islands being a low sandbar surrounded by reefs. The other islands are all mountainous volcanic islands. The waters around Anegada are a beautiful turquoise and although there is only one place to moor it was a lot quieter than all the other moorings we visited. There is a wild flock of flamingoes living on the salt ponds on the island. Donkeys and cattle wander around the island on and off the roads. You can get a cab (well a pick up truck with bench seats in the load area) from the Anegada Reef hotel to Loblolly bay, have lunch at the big bamboo, walk along the miles of deserted white sand beach and swim in the water behind the reef.
One word of caution wear plenty of insect repellent even during the day as I got bitten twice there and my lip and eye became unusually swollen. Bites sustained on other islands were never so severe.

The other thing that I worked out for myself is that you have to have 2 pain killers ( a rum based drink invented at the soggy dollar bar in white sand bay, Jost Van Dyke, now available at every bar in the islands) one is never enough!

If you want more advice there are plenty of online resources like:
Ginny's BVI sailing notes at www.catamaransailing.com/caribbean/bvinotes.htm
and
www.onlinecruisingguide.com/eastern...guide/BVI-sailing/british-virgin-islands.html
and
www.catamarans.com/gallery/charter/bvi

There aren't any real no go areas ( as long as you avoid the well charted reefs) everything is line of sight navigation and there are no unexpected obstacles to catch out the unwary.
The one place I would be wary of is Great Harbour on Peter Island as their are very few moorings and the water is very deep for anchoring unless you have 200ft of chain.

 

[nial]

must places to visit in BVI

Gee, I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Bomba Shack. They serve a tea there made from magic mushrooms. A couple of them and a couple of pain killers will see you right for a long while. Unfortunately you can't anchor there, you have to leave your boat in Cane Garden Bay and get a taxi to take you there. Going will cost $15, getting back to Cane Garden will cost $30, getting out to your boat in pitch darkness, in windy conditions with a heavy swell from the North when you don't hardly know what planet you're on, well priceless really.
nial

 

[tcm]

Always iffy to sugggest places in carib cos some people love places that others think are so-so. Frinstance i found anegada a bit empty and boring, altho the weather was overcast and after a downpour they use loadsa stuff to light the barbie so the lobster was a bit gasoliney.

things i will do again ...

White Bay, soggy dollar bar - praps anchor in great bay and dinghy round - the day moorings in white bay can be iffy
Norman island (but careful the next morning - a barracuda will likely take up residence under he boat so remove jewellrey and watches before any swim)
Soper's hole, hang out at the pussers bar
Trellis bar - the cyber caff has cool music and fab brunch
Chlll out at Peter Island (but not the so-called posh restaurant)
anchor and snorkel at cooper island

Weirdy fun things i will also do again
Find the "bubbly pool' again on Jost van dyke - walk east along the coast path, take bottled water, the bubbly pool is a bubbly cos of a cleft in the rock and waves kerash thru, very bubbly indeed if the swell is up, great fun
Go buy ice a short walk up the hill in great bay JVD, have an island-style chat with the lady who runs the ice shop starting with 10 mins wait till she arives and then see if you can natter along asking after her and wait till SHE asks if you want any ice, seeing as, yerknow, yer in a blimmin ice shop...
Play bar games with kids at saba/bitter end
Stop the boat just at entry to the bay for Bitter end (ie virgin gorda) and right there is a feet-in-the sand bar - great pix
Watch the pelicans dive-bombing in late afternoon in Great bay JVD

You can half your bar bill by one of you having a painkiller with n ice, and the ther having iced water - Drink the water and share the ice and painkiller which now fills both galsses (with the ice)

You'll get delivered to charter boat along with a load of others - don't unpack - go and book a restaurant table (and probably actually order food) AND go make sure you have a decent set of snorkels and masks before everyone else gets the new ones.

Take (on the plane) clothes to change out of cold-weather gear - shorts t-shirts and flip-flops- else you spend yonks queuing etc far to hot. Take snacks/fruit also to allow for perhaps waiting for transfer flites or whatever, same sorta thing.

I did loadsa criss-crossing to maxmise sailing but you could do an easier route of course.

Spanish town marina was a bit of a dump imho. Salt island - nothing there. Foxy's used to be kinda cool but is now gianty self-service buffet thing with (like everywhere) plastic plates.

The food in BVI is reliably rubbish (esp compared with SoF!) so best stick to chicken caesar salads or burgers cos that's their limit. As per USA, have loads of lovely breakfast - cos the food is downhill from there. Buy snack stuff to make sarnies on board.

Eat garlic capsules for a few days before going to BVI to reduce your attraction to mozzies. Anchor as far back from the shore as you can, also to avoid mozzies. Perform mozzie hunts to nail the b*stards before going to bed. Take (in checked baggage) a tube of Flammazine (no prescrip needed, chemist) to stop the inevitable mozzi bites from irritating and it works well on grazes, jellyfish stings too.

Echo others re anchoring instead of $25 mooring buoy. Some of the mooring money-collectors even wear sunsail/mooring t-shirts and say things like "i'd prefer you to take a mooring" but you're the skiper, you decide. You can take mooring buoy late and seeing as you are on european time you'll be up and gone at 6am, and heyho, nobody around to take the money.

There's bound to be stuff i missed...

 

[webcraft]

.
Take antihistamines in case of sandfly bites - we lost a day visiting a doc after SWMBO got chewed and had a reaction. (It flared up again after we came back)

Our Anegada lobster was gasoliney as well.

Great snorkelling at The Dogs and The Indians. (Short term non-coral-damaging moorings).

Wish we could go back. (SWMBO won us a free charter a few years ago in a YM competition).

- W

 

[mandlmaunder]

All the previous tips are well worth following up, the Indians just north of Norman Island is a top dive and snorkel stop.

All the dive shops do 'destination dives' where they come to your boat and bring all the equipment with them so all you have to do is arrange pickups, if you have never dived before they offer discover courses for the beginner.
If you dive then you are in a top destination, if you have never dived this trip is a great place to learn.

Jos van Dyke is a favourite of visitors and locals alike with Ivans and Coursairs being two of the lesser visited but great bars/restaurants on JVD.

We are on St John USVI in Coral Bay, drop by to Skinny Legs and we can blow the froth of a cold one and enjoy a burger. Just ask for English Mark!.

Have a great time.

Mark

 

[RichardS]

Strange how reading these posts brings back memories long forgotten!

We were anchored on Sandy Cay (just off Jost Van Dyke), an uninhabited "desert island" (great for kids to play Robinson Crusoe) for a lunch stop on our way across from JvD to Cane Garden Bay.

Looking to the far North-East I could see this huge bank of fog/cloud right across the horizon and right down to the sea which was moving towards us. I didn't like the look of it so, as we had finished lunch, we dinghied/swam back to the boat.

By the time we were on the boat we were in thick fog but I just had time to take a bearing across to CGB which was about 3 miles away before visibility was lost. However, there was no wind so we motored off following my bearing. No GPS or chartplotter on most charter boats back then.

I thought that this was a line squall, which I had read about, but the lack of any wind confused me. I remember thinking that this was more like the Channel that the Caribbean, but 20 degrees warmer.

Thankfully we found CGB and dropped the anchor. As the fog vanished the wind arrived. We didn't get much sleep that night with the howling and the spinning around and around but I was very glad we made it before it hit!

Was that a line squall - I dunno - but I've sailed in the Caribbean half a dozen times and never seen fog like that before!

I suspect that in the same situation now I would head back to JvD knowing what might follow the fog.

Richard

 

[Whiskey Bravo]

Quote ''The food in BVI is reliably rubbish (esp compared with SoF!) so best stick to chicken caesar salads or burgers cos that's their limit. As per USA, have loads of lovely breakfast - cos the food is downhill from there. Buy snack stuff to make sarnies on board. ''

Sorry, can't agree one bit. We ate excellent food every night for 2 weeks, ranging from Lobster [non-greasy] & Mahi Mahi to giant Steaks with much variety inbetween. Never ate a burger. you just have to find the right place to eat, and not always the most expensive. The Jolly Roger at Soper's Hole being a prime example.

 

[tcm]

Erm well, okay but the jolly roger website sez it does a bbq on friday and saturdays, and also does pizzas. Nuff sed - and that was the one you specially mentioned!!

 

[Whiskey Bravo]

Erm well, okay but the jolly roger website sez it does a bbq on friday and saturdays, and also does pizzas. Nuff sed - and that was the one you specially mentioned!!

You ought to know by now that you shouldn't believe everything you read on a website.
My experience of the Jolly Roger [not at a weekend]was an enormous steak cooked to perfection with all the trimmings. Can't remember exactly which fish SWMBO had, but do remember she enjoyed it and she takes a great deal of interest in the quality of her food.

As it happens we were told before we went that the food wasn't good, but it just wasn't true. Both at home and abroad we spend a fair bit of time [and money] eating out with friends and by ourselves, we do know good food when we get it and also know when it's not so good. As long as people are avoid the cheap 'burger joints', which I admit can be found in the BVI, there is no need to not eat well without breaking the bank.

 

[tcm]

foodie calibration

Each to their own.

Bit of calibration here: If you can make it yourself (and aren't a pro chef) - that's so-so (ok "rubbish") food. If they make pizza, or fries, or have paper tablecloths, or serve meals "garnished with fries" - and the jolly roger does all these (i've been there) - then (relatively) - it's rubbish. Pleasant - sure, fun - no problem - but actual foodwise - it is so-so. BBQ steaks and fish is about the most muppety food a resto can make. It site on north coas of soper's hole, frenchman's, and the main thing is a fab view.

If you can sit in a restaurant and correctly guess the number of Michelin stars it has (and will have next year) you're beginning to be on the same wavelength as my 'rubbish" comment. 3-star mich is worth a special trip so you should be able to name some distant ones. You saying "all the trimmings' is a cringe, decent-foodwise. That's like saying the boat was so good that it actually floated. If you claim expertise here you'll know a fair bit of "food French" - cos, like it or not and argue as hard as you like - that's the home language of decent food and for lots of things the English words just don't exist. You likely have Red Michelin for UK and france etc, duplicates for house, boat, cars etc. I'm guessing that you don't. If you go into a restaurant and look for the steak, well, hum. A steak is a very low dive for a chef. If they can't cook a steak fabuloulsy - they ain't a chef. Decent resto's aren't judged for their ability to cook a steak. Offering fries effectively bars them from Michelin listing.

I have been to the slightly-ronald-macdonaldish-but nice enough pirate-themed Jolly Roger and it's okay. NOT much better than okay in the general scheme of things.

But this doesn't mean BVI wasn't a great place, of course.

 

[Whiskey Bravo]

Each to their own.

Bit of calibration here: If you can make it yourself (and aren't a pro chef) - that's so-so (ok "rubbish") food. If they make pizza, or fries, or have paper tablecloths, or serve meals "garnished with fries" - and the jolly roger does all these (i've been there) - then (relatively) - it's rubbish. Pleasant - sure, fun - no problem - but actual foodwise - it is so-so. BBQ steaks and fish is about the most muppety food a resto can make. It site on north coas of soper's hole, frenchman's, and the main thing is a fab view.

If you can sit in a restaurant and correctly guess the number of Michelin stars it has (and will have next year) you're beginning to be on the same wavelength as my 'rubbish" comment. 3-star mich is worth a special trip so you should be able to name some distant ones. You saying "all the trimmings' is a cringe, decent-foodwise. That's like saying the boat was so good that it actually floated. If you claim expertise here you'll know a fair bit of "food French" - cos, like it or not and argue as hard as you like - that's the home language of decent food and for lots of things the English words just don't exist. You likely have Red Michelin for UK and france etc, duplicates for house, boat, cars etc. I'm guessing that you don't. If you go into a restaurant and look for the steak, well, hum. A steak is a very low dive for a chef. If they can't cook a steak fabuloulsy - they ain't a chef. Decent resto's aren't judged for their ability to cook a steak. Offering fries effectively bars them from Michelin listing.

I have been to the slightly-ronald-macdonaldish-but nice enough pirate-themed Jolly Roger and it's okay. NOT much better than okay in the general scheme of things.

But this doesn't mean BVI wasn't a great place, of course.

Not quite sure where you're going with this.
The point I was originally trying to make was that your assertion that salad and burgers was all that was worth eating was incorrect. In no way was I trying to give the impression that all the restaurants were offering superb cuisine, just that for modest sums of money a reasonable meal could be bought. The steak and the Jolly Roger just being the first example I thought of.

From the rest of your post regarding splitting a 'painkiller' and avoiding payment by arriving late and leaving early to avoid paying for a mooring you'd used,instead of anchoring for free, it seems as though paying a reasonable price for anything is not the usual way you operate, hence a jaundiced view of the edible delights.

Where I would agree with you is that the BVI is a great place, we'll be back next year, I'll even buy you a whole Painkiller if you're around.

 

[tico]

Our favourite destination in the world!

Just to add a couple of places
The bar on a sandbar just inside north Sound of VG is The Sandbox.. go in close and drop anchor..... idyllic unless there is a cruise ship in.

Saba rock .... restaurant gone downhill last time we went, but worth visiting, walk around the back of the bar to the garden + the small shipwreck museam. Watch for the huge tarpon attracted to the underwater lights at night.

Forget the Bitter end other than to restock (fresh croissants) and go to The fat virgin by Biras creek.... best rotis around

Sopers hole.... Pisces for breakfast and internet available at the jewellers. Take the dinghy up the creek at the top end , under the bridge and into frenchmans cay. Resupply at the purple place(supermarket.... again fresh croissants)

Peter island beach had almost gone (washed away) when we visited in December

Spanish town marina can be very hot&sweaty as its sheltered from any wind.

 

[Csail]

Always iffy to sugggest places in carib cos some people love places that others think are so-so. Frinstance i found anegada a bit empty and boring, altho the weather was overcast and after a downpour they use loadsa stuff to light the barbie so the lobster was a bit gasoliney.

things i will do again ...

White Bay, soggy dollar bar - praps anchor in great bay and dinghy round - the day moorings in white bay can be iffy
Norman island (but careful the next morning - a barracuda will likely take up residence under he boat so remove jewellrey and watches before any swim)
Soper's hole, hang out at the pussers bar
Trellis bar - the cyber caff has cool music and fab brunch
Chlll out at Peter Island (but not the so-called posh restaurant)
anchor and snorkel at cooper island

Weirdy fun things i will also do again
Find the "bubbly pool' again on Jost van dyke - walk east along the coast path, take bottled water, the bubbly pool is a bubbly cos of a cleft in the rock and waves kerash thru, very bubbly indeed if the swell is up, great fun
Go buy ice a short walk up the hill in great bay JVD, have an island-style chat with the lady who runs the ice shop starting with 10 mins wait till she arives and then see if you can natter along asking after her and wait till SHE asks if you want any ice, seeing as, yerknow, yer in a blimmin ice shop...
Play bar games with kids at saba/bitter end
Stop the boat just at entry to the bay for Bitter end (ie virgin gorda) and right there is a feet-in-the sand bar - great pix
Watch the pelicans dive-bombing in late afternoon in Great bay JVD

You can half your bar bill by one of you having a painkiller with n ice, and the ther having iced water - Drink the water and share the ice and painkiller which now fills both galsses (with the ice)

You'll get delivered to charter boat along with a load of others - don't unpack - go and book a restaurant table (and probably actually order food) AND go make sure you have a decent set of snorkels and masks before everyone else gets the new ones.

Take (on the plane) clothes to change out of cold-weather gear - shorts t-shirts and flip-flops- else you spend yonks queuing etc far to hot. Take snacks/fruit also to allow for perhaps waiting for transfer flites or whatever, same sorta thing.

I did loadsa criss-crossing to maxmise sailing but you could do an easier route of course.

Spanish town marina was a bit of a dump imho. Salt island - nothing there. Foxy's used to be kinda cool but is now gianty self-service buffet thing with (like everywhere) plastic plates.

The food in BVI is reliably rubbish (esp compared with SoF!) so best stick to chicken caesar salads or burgers cos that's their limit. As per USA, have loads of lovely breakfast - cos the food is downhill from there. Buy snack stuff to make sarnies on board.

Eat garlic capsules for a few days before going to BVI to reduce your attraction to mozzies. Anchor as far back from the shore as you can, also to avoid mozzies. Perform mozzie hunts to nail the b*stards before going to bed. Take (in checked baggage) a tube of Flammazine (no prescrip needed, chemist) to stop the inevitable mozzi bites from irritating and it works well on grazes, jellyfish stings too.

Echo others re anchoring instead of $25 mooring buoy. Some of the mooring money-collectors even wear sunsail/mooring t-shirts and say things like "i'd prefer you to take a mooring" but you're the skiper, you decide. You can take mooring buoy late and seeing as you are on european time you'll be up and gone at 6am, and heyho, nobody around to take the money.

There's bound to be stuff i missed...

I liked anegada looking around the crashed plane,iguana place,no people and beach with reefs all to our selves.

 

[johnphilip]

Sandbox

Did a week's charter a few years ago. Absolutely brilliant time. Everywhere brilliant and good food eating out. Only place to avoid we found was the Bitter End Yacht Club. Large establishment with could not care about you staff. If in Virgin Gorda Sound go to the Sandbox cafe ( a short walk from Bitter End ) If it is still there then go for it. Really lovely food and an evening we still talk about.

 

[homa]

Can recommend Marina Key

Can also second
Virgin gorda
Bitter End yacht Club
Anegada