Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot

[sogood]

Hey Wayne, good to see you back and making progress. The weather over here also put a stop to any progress, but I think I have my "water in fuel" issue solved.

The fabric you got for the lining looks very like the one I used to reline my Wellcraft. Is your a fibre/cloth backing or is it a plastic type? I ask because if like mine, it's a cloth type backing, sometimes a light spray with adhesive helps to prime or seal it, so when the actual "fixing" adhesive is applied, it won't soak in and dry out so quickly. I don't remember if you followed the link to my refit, but I used a vinyl material to reline my boat, but wasn't happy with it. It didn't have any give in it and was hard to get a clean, neat finish and it was a nuisance when it came to condensation. So I stripped it all off and re did it with the fabric lining. Much easier, more forgiving and a much better finish.
You can pull and stretch the fabric to a degree, unlike the vinyl.

If you're going to reseal any cabin windows, it's a good idea to do this in tandem with the relining. You can remove the windows and trim the fabric off after it has been fitted. I just left a rough cut out where the windows were and trimmed it snug after fitting. Then reseal and fit the windows and it gives a very neat finish inside. Then the interior window trim is refitted, covering the edge and it also helps to hold the fabric down at the edges.

I also used camp bed foam to cover many of the uneven and lumpy surfaces before fitting the fabric. You know the foam liners that are used on camp beds and in sleeping bags. It's usually orange, but not always, and is about 1/4" thick and measures about
6' x 20". It sticks really well with a spray adhesive and the fabric sticks really well to it also. You can often get them in Aldi or Lidl or any camping store (but more expensive).

Look in on my thread if you need more details and ask questions if need be. Keep up the great work and stay well.

 

[mmloga]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Wayne,

I have been looking to replace my transom shower box and lid. It has cracked due to exposure. Since my boat was built in France and there is no name on the box or lid, I have been scouring the net for months trying to find a drop in replacement.

In your post #468 you showed a picture of a similar shower box. Better yet, you mentioned the manufacturer. Needless to say, I looked up the specs and sure enough it what I have been looking for for months.

You have served us all well by showing your amazing work and talent. Little did you know that you were also helping people across the pond source parts that are hard to find in the states.

Cheers! Many thanks for your continued posts. (Yes, I have read everyone of them).

Matt - Proclivities
2015 Prestige 500 Fly
Alamitos Bay, California

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Wayne,

I have been looking to replace my transom shower box and lid. It has cracked due to exposure. Since my boat was built in France and there is no name on the box or lid, I have been scouring the net for months trying to find a drop in replacement.

In your post #468 you showed a picture of a similar shower box. Better yet, you mentioned the manufacturer. Needless to say, I looked up the specs and sure enough it what I have been looking for for months.

You have served us all well by showing your amazing work and talent. Little did you know that you were also helping people across the pond source parts that are hard to find in the states.

Cheers! Many thanks for your continued posts. (Yes, I have read everyone of them).

Matt - Proclivities
2015 Prestige 500 Fly
Alamitos Bay, California

Hi Matt

I am glad to help out then and for you to read the whole blog wow, i tend to read it through one day, when i have a spare few days that is chilling on the boat when it is done, very soon i hope.

Thank Matt

Wayne

Hey Wayne, good to see you back and making progress. The weather over here also put a stop to any progress, but I think I have my "water in fuel" issue solved.

The fabric you got for the lining looks very like the one I used to reline my Wellcraft. Is your a fibre/cloth backing or is it a plastic type? I ask because if like mine, it's a cloth type backing, sometimes a light spray with adhesive helps to prime or seal it, so when the actual "fixing" adhesive is applied, it won't soak in and dry out so quickly. I don't remember if you followed the link to my refit, but I used a vinyl material to reline my boat, but wasn't happy with it. It didn't have any give in it and was hard to get a clean, neat finish and it was a nuisance when it came to condensation. So I stripped it all off and re did it with the fabric lining. Much easier, more forgiving and a much better finish.
You can pull and stretch the fabric to a degree, unlike the vinyl.

If you're going to reseal any cabin windows, it's a good idea to do this in tandem with the relining. You can remove the windows and trim the fabric off after it has been fitted. I just left a rough cut out where the windows were and trimmed it snug after fitting. Then reseal and fit the windows and it gives a very neat finish inside. Then the interior window trim is refitted, covering the edge and it also helps to hold the fabric down at the edges.

I also used camp bed foam to cover many of the uneven and lumpy surfaces before fitting the fabric. You know the foam liners that are used on camp beds and in sleeping bags. It's usually orange, but not always, and is about 1/4" thick and measures about
6' x 20". It sticks really well with a spray adhesive and the fabric sticks really well to it also. You can often get them in Aldi or Lidl or any camping store (but more expensive).

Look in on my thread if you need more details and ask questions if need be. Keep up the great work and stay well.

Hi kida

This is the material https://www.architonic.com/en/product/maharam-tek-wall-inset-001-tinsel/1113195

The white is a leatherette i think and again foam backed.

To finish the lining around windows i will be doing as you mention and line to the edge then trim off with Sapele hardwood hockey stick to hold the edges in place. Around the rest i will be using quadrant hardwood to hold that in place.

I will have mooch on your blog and see what you mean

Wayne

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Why not have a wee update. I have 10 mins to myself so here we go, not a great deal to show but something.

A while ago I was making a cool box cupboard top from my off cut Sapele veneered ply. That didnt go to well due to a few mishaps and disturbances. So that was binned.

Only thing I could do was to use the Iroko i have left, i dont have enough for the table/cabin berth so i will need to get some more in soon.

Again i made 50mmx50mm tiles but these are around 5mm thick give or take.5mm. My table saw is good but not that good, or is it the user...

Here i used again Cascamite to glue them down. I should of really clamped each tile down while setting but i was unable to. I have sorted that now though for when i do the table top. Lengths of 40mm SHS steel with a length of foam glued to one side. This should help hold a line of tiles down enough, they dont need a high force.

Anyway near done tiling onto 9mm ply

To get the tiles all level i treated myself to a new toy. I chose the Bosch PBS 75A belt sander, reason is the reviews were great, it was either that or a Makita that i would of prefered but that was second place for my budget. That was used to get it down with 80G and then 120G. Well once that was done to polsh it up i used the good old Makita Palm sander, same again in the grits.



You will see here i saved the dust to be used as a filler for the gaps in the tiles, i mixed this with poly resin to a toothpaste consistency. No pics but that is easy to work out. Then once dried a sand down with 120G and good to go.

Gaps, hey its no easy to get them perfect, possible but it would take some time to do so, filler will do the job.

Before i trimmed back the overhanging tiles.

Trimmed once again with the Sapele hockey stick.

This is where it is going to live. I am just gluing the trim on and then i will give it maybe four coats of Le Tonk

Back in time again, the ambient temps at long last have risen enough to get some laminating done in the heads.

Just a matter of two 450g CSM all over the floor and up the sides. I covered the drain with tape to make it easier to tidy up and blend in later.

Once dry, trim back and sand all over ready for a flowcoat, once stopper filler has smoothed it more that is.

The drain will have a polished stainless steel plate over it, either perforated or plain with a small gap around the edges.

Thats it but for the cladding which i did do a while ago and just managed to get that fitted and started the Heads cupboard/side and sink. frame work.

What i will be concerntrating on now is the rear canvas work and the exterior to get it ready asap for a launch. I have been looking at fittings but first job will be getting some 19mm mild steel tube and make a frame mock up. before i use stainless steel.

So watch this page for a nightmare ahead

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Well have to show this, it has taken three coats of Le Tonk varnish, and I reckon one more nay do it. There is a few more grains that need filling, this is after sitting for 2hrs.

I cant wait to make the berth/drop table, I just need more Iroko now as I have run out. I have come by a local chap that is selling it at a half decent price though. I collected a length today for the hatch surround.

50mm x 50mm x 5mm Iroko tiles

 

[vas]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

not bad at all W, not bad at all!

do you wet and dry between (some/any) coats?
and how fine a paper do you go with the orbital sander before starting?

cheers

V.

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

not bad at all W, not bad at all!

do you wet and dry between (some/any) coats?
and how fine a paper do you go with the orbital sander before starting?

cheers

V.

Hi Vas

To start it was 80G then 120G in the belt sander and then same with the palm sander. then a coat every 24hrs to desired finish , no prep in between coats as long as it not left for much more than 24hrs.

Next time though i will go last on the Palm sander with 240G, there are very slight marks in the timber now it varnished, very slight that is but i am a picky sod.

If you leave it longer or get dust settled on it then i give it 48hrs to fully dry then use a dry 120G and another coat then. I need to give one more after seeing it this morning to fill a few more deep grains so that will be five coats, be like a sheet of glass

Its great stuff and very runny. Just easy attracts dust.

W

 

[sogood]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Nice work wayne. There's a guy here on an Irish boating website who builds boats from scratch and the finish is similar to yours. If your table top doesn't work out you could always hang it in the head and shave with it. Keep on trucking!

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Nice work wayne. There's a guy here on an Irish boating website who builds boats from scratch and the finish is similar to yours. If your table top doesn't work out you could always hang it in the head and shave with it. Keep on trucking!

Hi there matey.

I still need to look through your thread on the windows, just have no time hardly to do much now, just about to go and do some laminating of Iroko for the inner hatch frame. Om my windows they will be lined out to the edge on the ply lining then hardwood trim over to cove the cut edge. I may of mentioned that before, I forget what i have put down now.

Not long been home and just checked on the fourth coat for the cupboard top, IMO it needs another as there are some ( two or three ) deep grains not quite filled, I may put up with that though, see how I faff about later on. It has a very deep gloss now, good enough as a mirror

 

[sogood]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

I used 1/2" plywood on the windows in the Microplus as a sort of inner frame/trim. It dressed them off nicely and covered the edge of the interior lining (carpet). After resealing etc. the windows were riveted into place with the addition of a long ss nut and bolt at each corner, which passed through the plywood. This held the plywood trim in place, but still easy to remove. The extended screw was used to fix a curtain wire onto. Pics may explain better. Fortunately, my Wellcraft came with inner aluminium window trims. Not so warm but much less maintenance.

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Can everybody see my pics ok ?

I am working on the canopy frame and need a side on pic to use.

 

[Bouba]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

No Wayne, lost all your pics

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Dam, any idea what has happend, i can see the every first few pages.

Thanks Bouba.

 

[Bouba]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

No, as the Americans say this is outside my wheelhouse. But I think the problem is you, because the pics that sogood posts are still there

 

[MrB]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

I'm not seeing any pics either so as Bouba says, it's more than likely your end unfortunately.

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Not much going on but for the last hour or so of today as I have been busy with fixing the Boat Works car and a job in hand. This weekend was put aside for the boat to be worked on but then the car needed an urgent fettle. Brakes, god knows why but last owner replaced the brake disc only on one side, I guess as they stripped the disc retaining screws and could not be bother to drill them out. So new brakes along with lower wishbone and drop links then later maybe a new rear axle as the axle bearing has gone.

Never mind that anyway, moaned enough about it after I was told these jobs had been done. First time in ownership of over 20 cars have I been done over.

Well I found some pics so I have had a doodle for the canopy design.

Bit rough but its an idea. The frame will be made from 3/4 inch /19mm SS tube i would go bigger but i have a 19mm tube bender. It will be hinged just above the joint ( if I can find a 19mm SS tube hinge ) of the red triangle so then the frame will fall back and then hinge up so as in affect be a seat back rest for the deck seats.

Not set on the entrance door yet but along them lines and be fully removable fro when folding down the canopy.


I hope folk can offer help here as this is the biggest job for me of the complete build and i am actually worried a little about doing it.

I dont want to throw the towel in yet and get it made for me a si like a challenge so bear with

And if anybody knows of a place that does 19mm tube hinges like these please tell.

All i can find is Sheridans

https://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/stainless-steel-canopy-bar-hinges

 

[MrB]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

Can't help out but the pics are all showing now.:encouragement:

 

[Bouba]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

When the canopy is folded up you have to think of how it will stow and where. Also think about access to the side decks (unless there is a hatch up front) and it needs to be able to lift up a bit over the cleats for rope handling. Ever thought of getting a professional to give you a quote and show you a design?
I saw those pics!

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

I think the pics problem is something to do with the Postimage i use. Just read they have changed something and moved to another thingy so i mite have to reload all of them sometime , yes i am very tech lol.

Last pics are from Postimage so they are ok now. Just not the old ones.

I am hoping that once the side doors are removed it will all fold down as in last pic. If not then i can arrange storage for the canvas somewhere. Even remove the back section also.

 

[waynes world]

Re: Buckingham 20 restoration, formerly Plant Pot - Thanks from California

And when it folds down then the side cleats will be clear from the frame. The way its going i may just get a pro to do it yet. Got so much on.