BOTTLESCREWS /TURNBUCKLES

srm

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If the wire is swaged to one end of the bottle screw that is probably a right hand thread - or at least it was on the forestay furling gear that I recently tightened. However, if its a stand alone bottle screw that could have been fitted either way up you will have to look at the thread or simply try turning it and see what happens.

I have found that "try it and see what happens" frequently answers boat related questions. It either works the way you want it to or it does not. A simple test that I discovered long before the internet came along.
Do you know if it is metric or imperial thread?
Not relevant unless you are trying to fit parts together from a box of boat jumble bits. Even then the "try it and see what happens" test will soon show which bits fit together without any further technical knowledge.
 
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Pye_End

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Not relevant unless you are trying to fit parts together from a box of boat jumble bits. Even then the "try it and see what happens" test will soon show which bits fit together without any further technical knowledge.

Relevant because, according to the Jimmy Green website, imperial rigging screws are generally RH but metric are generally LH.
 
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William_H

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Around here the swaged on to wire thread is always RH which then makes the bottom toggle LH thread so looking down tighten is done by anti clockwise turn looking from above.
Now my sneaking suspicion is that OP has turnscrew that will not move either way. A common failing due to corrosion and galling. The answer is to remove the turnscrew if he can at least from the bottom. This may enable him to move either the LH thread part or RH thread part individually. If one or both will not move then heat or bashing between two hammers at thread part and various solvents may get it moving. If not then he is up for a new trurn screw. (or is it called turn buckle? or bottle screw?) Me I move and grease my 4 every winter. yes I have had them seize up. ol'will
 

Pye_End

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Surely all bottlescrews have both a RH and a LH thread. Otherwise they wouldn't work.
The example they use is of a swaged fitting at one end so that you can copy your current stay correctly. Since most yachts seem to use a swaged stud at one end, I have assumed, rightly or wrongly, that the OP also has this. Ie. the description and information on the Jimmy Green site is of the top thread, not the bottom.
 
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