BOTTLESCREWS /TURNBUCKLES

Upper forks have stainless steel split pins which I find unacceptably difficult to remove (ok on a car but there they are usually in a rigidly mounted fastner and arent ss)

I suppose I could replace with little split rings, or maybe I could terminate a lock wire there, 2 dead birds 1 stone stylee?

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Split pins are the normal and secure solution, and generally easy enough to remove (unless wrong size clevis pjns).
I would suggest persevere and refine your technique as most others find simple and secure.
 
Split pins are the normal and secure solution, and generally easy enough to remove (unless wrong size clevis pjns).
I would suggest persevere and refine your technique as most others find simple and secure.
In addition, split pins should only be opened to an angle of 20 degrees, legs kept straight. Tape over the ends to help avoid snagging of lines. (Advice from Selden).
 
In addition, split pins should only be opened to an angle of 20 degrees, legs kept straight. Tape over the ends to help avoid snagging of lines. (Advice from Selden).
I normally open mine enough so that the split pin ends are 'covered' by the fitting as it reduced the chances of snagging. mainly legs and feet. Depending upon split pin location it got a wrapping of my preferred tape to add extra protection.
 
I was surprised how good water-pump pliers are at dealing with that kind of split pin use.

I think that personally I would not dare terminate the lock wire in there instead of some other fastening case that wasn't up to the job. I'm sure there are alternatives to the split pin that are ok, though.
I tried a range of pliers and spanners, including water pump pliers. Took me over an hour to remove 2, in the yard. Wouldnt like to have to do it in a water bourne emergency, or in fact ever again in any circumstances

I have some new bolt cutters somewhere that might work for the others if I can get the end of the jaws on them.

I doubt the split pins are heavily loaded so suspect they dont need to be so ludicrously strong, but I could of course be wrong. It would help if the tails hadnt been wrapped back around the pin, but I suppose that reduces snagging.

16mm spanner too loose on locknuts, 15mm too tight (though could be hammered on) and didnt find an Imperial fit either. Maybe they are Whitworth?(which I dont have).

Stripped one thread so far so that one at least will need lockwire, so I will likely use it on all of them.
 
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In addition, split pins should only be opened to an angle of 20 degrees, legs kept straight. Tape over the ends to help avoid snagging of lines. (Advice from Selden).
Split pins are the normal and secure solution, and generally easy enough to remove (unless wrong size clevis pjns).
I would suggest persevere and refine your technique as most others find simple and secure.
Poll in the Boness yard would indicate most people here (many having had multiple decades to refine technique, which I wont be getting) find them an absolute PITA, expressed quite forcefully in some cases, as in "especially if some **** has wrapped the legs back".

Perhaps a cultural difference?
 
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I never had anything like that bad a time removing a split pin, I wonder what's different about those ones... so there's something to avoid here, but it's hard to tell what.
 
I never had anything like that bad a time removing a split pin, I wonder what's different about those ones... so there's something to avoid here, but it's hard to tell what.
I'd think theyd be fairly straightforward if not wrapped, so avoiding that on a re-installation might be enough to render them usable.

They are quite heavy SS which cant be cut by ordinary pliers or side cutters. Substituting copper or monel metal wire (if adequate for the job, which I THINK it should be) would get around that.
 
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