Bosun’s chair recommendations?

[Kukri]

I have two. The Mark One plank, made by me, back in the Dawn of Time, and a red nappy style one, no maker’s name, which I probably bought thirty years ago.

Have Times Moved On? Do I need a better one?

If so, what does the panel recommend?

 

[pyrojames]

I use a climbing harness, but have a red nappy bosun's chair with built in plank and an orange one without. I find the plank usually bites my legs against the shrouds. I find the harness lighter and more comfortable but add a canvas bucket for tools and parts.

 

[prv]

I don't think there's been any revolutionary change. Most yacht chairs I see are a wrap-around fabric seat with a piece of plywood sewn into the bottom so that you're sitting on something rather than having it squeeze around you. Attached pockets and tool "holsters" are not uncommon.

I have a home-made traditional plank type seat, and also wear a basic scaffolder's harness just in case I were to slip forwards or flip backwards off the plank. The harness isn't under any load in normal use and would be fairly uncomfortable to hang in, but better than the alternative. I prefer to use an ordinary bucket for tools as it's easier to take things out of and drop them back into than some of the chair pockets which are small and close against your body. Generally on a separate halyard so it can be sent down to pick up tools I forgot

That said, for my radar swap last year I put a three-section extension ladder against the mast, modified with asymmetrical feet to stand level on the curved deck, and that was far easier than messing about with ropes . Discovering the cherry picker in Cowes at £30 for half an hour is also something I will bear in mind for the future

Pete

 

[sarabande]

It is possible that there are a few XM bosun's chairs still around which have not been fixed under the 2002 (?) recall. Worth keeping an eye open for them if you buy a second hand one.

The plank-based ones are frightening, as body CofG is above the seat.

Like Pyro I have a climbing harness for the boat (by Spinlock - a bit boaty; other makes are available). If you go down the harness route, it's worth checking that you have dorsal, sternal, and waist clip points, as well as tool bag attachment loops. Those give flexibility and choice of attachment /backup points while e.g. you negotiate the spreaders with a chest safety loop which also prevents inversion.

Go for one with broad leg straps, otherwise blood flow to legs can be restricted. Narrow leg straps can also twist as you put the kit on.

Https://www.arcoservices.co.uk/equi...-equipment/working-at-height-safety-harnesses

https://www.jsp.co.uk/link/en/working-at-height/c/


Proper Working At height ones are also VAT free, and tax allowable I use a 5point one when sorting out problems on the hydro-electric station.

 

[peter gibbs]

Good advice there to use a ladder whenever possible; take aloft a strop fitted with carabiners to restrain yourself against the ladder/mast so you can use both hands and have no risk of falling backwards.

Regarding regular bosun's chairs, the risk of inverting backwards cannot be ignored - I take a galley strop aloft to avoid this peril.

Hauling up tools in a bag on a long line is one way to keep the mast climb uncluttered and save gear crashing to the deck.

PWG

 

[Kukri]

I use an old fashioned canvas bucket for tools; it’s big and strong and won’t invert and you can see into it.

The Horrid Job is always bulb/LED replacement; worth carrying a spare top unit and changing that to do both in one go

 

[PhilipH]

Climbing harness - bosun chairs can be dangerous and not so comfortable.

 

[pcatterall]

We have positioned 2 steps at the top to give something to stand on. We use a tree surgeon type harness. We do need to put 2 more steps higher up so we can work better at stuff right on top. the lower ones are best for threading and working on pulleys etc.

 

[johnalison]

I go up every year and use an ancient seat with blue shiny stuff as a 'nappy' and adjustable straps. I probably should use a harness at midriff or chest level but feel safe enough. The main thing is to have a solid 'seat' to sit on, otherwise it becomes very tiring. A friend with an identical seat was aloft when the seat broke in the middle because he had allowed the wood to get damp and rot.

 

[thinwater]

I go up every year and use an ancient seat with blue shiny stuff as a 'nappy' and adjustable straps. I probably should use a harness at midriff or chest level but feel safe enough. The main thing is to have a solid 'seat' to sit on, otherwise it becomes very tiring. A friend with an identical seat was aloft when the seat broke in the middle because he had allowed the wood to get damp and rot.

Earlier this spring, a fellow was being lowered in the next creek north. He got a leg caught on a spreader, inverted, and augured into the deck head first from 40 feet up.

What you MUST have is a band around the narrowest part of your body that cannot be forced down over your hips, no matter what. If you do not have a waist that meets this requirement you cannot climb or you need a full body harness. Really, if you don't have a waist, you probably shouldn't be climbing.

The key to using a climbing harness is to make the leg loops wider by inserting wide, stiff foam pads. Works the treat.

 

[Kukri]

We have positioned 2 steps at the top to give something to stand on. We use a tree surgeon type harness. We do need to put 2 more steps higher up so we can work better at stuff right on top. the lower ones are best for threading and working on pulleys etc.

I like that. I really loathe standing on an old type chair to work on the very top stuff.

 

[Kukri]

Earlier this spring, a fellow was being lowered in the next creek north. He got a leg caught on a spreader, inverted, and augured into the deck head first from 40 feet up.

What you MUST have is a band around the narrowest part of your body that cannot be forced down over your hips, no matter what. If you do not have a waist that meets this requirement you cannot climb or you need a full body harness. Really, if you don't have a waist, you probably shouldn't be climbing.

The key to using a climbing harness is to make the leg loops wider by inserting wide, stiff foam pads. Works the treat.

Yikes.

 

[Neeves]

Climbing harness, strop to go round mast as I ascend, separate strop that allows me to attach to the crane (so not suspended by halyard). Canvas bucket with solid base (in a pocket) on separate line long enough to be lowered for the stuff I inevitably forget.

Underline that a climbing harness can be most uncomfortable on the legs if you need to work for any length of time - do whatever possible, see previous posts, to spread the load.

For climbing alone (only in desperation), a set of jumars and climbing rope taken up on a halyard. Same harness, same strops, no safety line.

For something as complex, or taking a long time, as fitting radar - a ladder, harness (and no wash) is the answer. The biggest issue with radar is feeding the cable into the mast as it has the tactility of a game fishing rod - needs 2 people and lots of patience.

We carry a bosuns chain, board in a canvas pocket and canvas side pieces (and pockets). I quite enjoy mast work, and do it for others, but prefer the climbing harness.

If you are up a mast it is worth checking what tools (alan key and size, screwdrivers etc) and spares, like bulbs (are LEDs still called bulbs?), you need for future reference - you (or the owner) can then prepare in advance.

If you are preparing for long passages a helmet is an essential bit of kit (for mast work offshore) and is also useful if you need to go over the side to help recover a comatose MOB. I would not do mast work at sea without a helmet (they are cheap as chips and certainly cheaper than skulls!) Normal hard hats are a pain, they have a peak/visor at the front and you need to bend your neck way back to see up high - cut the peak off, or buy a dedicated climbing helmet and if all else fails - a cycle helmet

Jonathan

 

[pcatterall]

I can see the value of a helmet for those on deck waiting for a dropped spanner etc. but would not think it was essential up the mast.

 

[Neeves]

At sea, unsurprisingly, masts are not very stable, for some reason they sway and throw anyone up that mast ' this way and that'.

You try it - you will welcome the helmet.

Jonathan

 

[dom]

Neeves’ kit sounds a bit North Face of the Eiger But I basically agree, also re helmet at sea. Knocking yourself out up there is easy and wld not be a lot of fun. If necessary to climb offshore, a slight to moderate heel on one side is more comfortable than side to side motion.

Personally i use a comfortable canvas bosun’s chair for longer jobs, but also wear a Petzl climbing harness beneath to which the safety line is attached. For quick trips up, only the Petzl. Climbing gear is invariably better worked out and more rigorously tested.

 

[laika]

I have a crewsaver bosun’s chair which feels considerably more secure than a plank of wood. Larger users should check max weight before buying. Mine is rated for 100kg. I’ve seen some rated for 90.

Recently I’ve been looking at climbing harnesses. Folks considering the spinlock should be aware that the newer model seems to have less padding on the legs than the old model. Apparently the normal use case for these is racing bowmen whizzing up the mast rather than prolonged work at the mast head

 

[Neeves]

As a slight aside

Clipper yachts carry 2 helmets (on each yacht) for use during mast work and for MOB recovery. I don't know that they are climbing helmets, they may be caving helmets (I don't know the latter and I'm not up to date with the former).

Jonathan

 

[prv]

Clipper yachts carry 2 helmets (on each yacht) for use during mast work and for MOB recovery. I don't know that they are climbing helmets, they may be caving helmets (I don't know the latter and I'm not up to date with the former).

Kayak helmets would probably be a sensible choice.

Pete

 

[Kukri]

I think a Spinlock harness and the old plank chair look like the best combination!