Batts died .... and Bosch Relay

[rogerthebodger]

No need to remove the magic eye indicator. The batteries in the pictures have removeable filler caps/plugs!

'
So they do so why is the green indicator needed.

None of my batteries have access to the electrolyte except via the green indicator

I note that Paul Rainbow was tickled by your comment but ha not posted and possible causes of Refueler battery issue as other posters have done with any comment on my mistake

 

[Refueler]

I would try charging the batteries with a simple dumb source, like a higher voltage wall wart with a resistance in series if there's no basic charger available. You can use a light bulb in series perhaps?
Put some volts across the battery, see if it takes a current. If it does let it get up to a point where a smart charger works..

I would guess that the relay is not part of the problem, had it been energised, the start battery would have probably been in parallel and killed too!

It's worth having the cell plugs out and looking at electrolyte levels.

Looking ahead, the main thing is to be sure the same doesn't happen to the next pair of batteries.

This is where my Programmable LiPo chargers come to play ... they have Pb, NiCd, NiMh, LiPo, LiPoHV, Li ion, LiFePo modes ... from 1.2V up to 37V

When a Lead Acid fails to initialise a smart charger ... I use the NiCd mode of one of my LiPo chargers to boost the battery to at least 10V .... then quickly swap to the Smart Charger ...

Did that this afternoon with these two ... now they are on Repair (Pulse) mode on my smarts ...

 

[Refueler]

'
So they do so why is the green indicator needed.

None of my batteries have access to the electrolyte except via the green indicator

Even many of the so-called maintenance free - you can usually pop the long lid that runs across top of battery to access the cells .... Usually the brand label covers the joint.
Most of my batts with Green Eye's have accessible cells.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Even many of the so-called maintenance free - you can usually pop the long lid that runs across top of battery to access the cells .... Usually the brand label covers the joint.
Most of my batts with Green Eye's have accessible cells.

Ok now I know but I have tried on some of mine but never been able to access the electrolyte.

My engine start battery was overcharged by a faulty battery charger which blow out the magic eye but not the access cap

 

[PaulRainbow]

'
So they do so why is the green indicator needed.

None of my batteries have access to the electrolyte except via the green indicator

I note that Paul Rainbow was tickled by your comment but ha not posted and possible causes of Refueler battery issue as other posters have done with any comment on my mistake

Bodger likes to derail as many threads as possible that i have replied to, now he wants to start something because i haven't replied

 

[Refueler]

C'mon guys ... no need to start ...

Lets sort my problem please.

 

[rogerthebodger]

C'mon guys ... no need to start ...

Lets sort my problem please.

I agree we should concentrate on help solve members problems and answering their questions and less on trying to score browne point or trying to discredit people

This is a Practical Boat Owner forum after all

 

[James_Calvert]

On a minor practicality, the handles on those type of batteries are fairly easily detached/reattached. On my set up I have to take them off because they won't lie flat over the terminal connections. And the locker won't close with them sticking up.

You might have the detached handles somewhere about...

 

[fredrussell]

Lets sort my problem please.

You mentioned it earlier, and I’m sure most would agree with you, that given the amount of troubles with your electrics (on this and other posts) a re-wire might be the best solution. I know you’re not a fan of newfangled stuff, but I can STRONGLY recommend putting an NMEA 2000 backbone in and starting from there. No more routing wires from one end of boat to the other each time you add or replace something. It’s been a revelation to me how well N2K works and how simple it is to work with.

 

[Refueler]

On a minor practicality, the handles on those type of batteries are fairly easily detached/reattached. On my set up I have to take them off because they won't lie flat over the terminal connections. And the locker won't close with them sticking up.

You might have the detached handles somewhere about...

Maybe ... who knows !! I've put rope handles on .. so not a problem now.

 

[Refueler]

You mentioned it earlier, and I’m sure most would agree with you, that given the amount of troubles with your electrics (on this and other posts) a re-wire might be the best solution. I know you’re not a fan of newfangled stuff, but I can STRONGLY recommend putting an NMEA 2000 backbone in and starting from there. No more routing wires from one end of boat to the other each time you add or replace something. It’s been a revelation to me how well N2K works and how simple it is to work with.

The data side of things - not a problem I reckon - so I think I can just leave as it is ... and I will be updating my NMEA2WiFi to the NMEA4WiFi unit anyway ...

NMEA4WIFI - 4 x INPUT NMEA 0183 WIFI MULTIPLEXER WITH SEATALK1 INPUT | eBay

The main power distribution, lights and domestic items I believe are the real need to revamp.

 

[Refueler]

Had both on Pulse mode overnight and most of today ... they now sit at 13.3V off charger ... and I expect them to drop back to 12.8 or so by morning ... if so - then maybe they can work for domestic ..... but maybe that's a bit optimistic.

I can use them on my day boats though - with small solar panels to top up ... as they don't need high ampage ..

 

[Stemar]

I had the diodes fail on Jissel a few years ago. This put +12v on the charge warning light terminal, activating the spit charge relay. When I got to the boat, both batteries were at AA cell voltages, but they recovered with a recharge on a dumb charger. The domestic one lasted a good few years and the starter battery, already second hand, gave me another year before getting lazy so, while a deep discharge won't do them any good, it isn't always fatal.

 

[billskip]

When leaving/wintering your boat it either needs a circuit energised or it doesn't.
1) If it does, you must know this and therefore likely know the circuits components that will "drain" the battery.
2) If it doesn't then disconnect the battery when wintertime.
One faulty cell will take both batteries down, so possible only one battery at fault.
If not the batteries at fault a resistance check across the disconnected cables will indicate an open circuit (no external demand) or a resistance which will then determine the reason.
Sometimes the external resistance is difficult to measure as the meter doesnt have enough energy to create fault conditions.
So, connect a known good battery and an ameter in series with one cable and battery terminal post, this will indicate any energy "drain".
Also batteries have an internal resistance and over a long period of time can become discharged, with exceptionally cold conditions this can affect.

 

[billskip]

None of my batteries have access to the electrolyte except via the green indicator

Gell batteries I dont think have access...

 

[Refueler]

I had the diodes fail on Jissel a few years ago. This put +12v on the charge warning light terminal, activating the spit charge relay. When I got to the boat, both batteries were at AA cell voltages, but they recovered with a recharge on a dumb charger. The domestic one lasted a good few years and the starter battery, already second hand, gave me another year before getting lazy so, while a deep discharge won't do them any good, it isn't always fatal.

I checked this morning with my Halfords Load Tester ..... shows 4 full green led's .... both seem to have recovered. Will need to put into service and see what happens.

Decided to revamp my old Emergency Jump Starter .... it has a 12v 17A/hr SLA .... - new battery in and she's good to go ... even found the old charger for it ...

 

[Refueler]

Took an old 'dumb charger' to repair shop couple of days ago .... got it back today ... they removed the Bridge that had failed 2x already .. and replaced with Zener ... works a treat now .. and doesn't get hot as before.

 

[LittleSister]

C'mon guys ... no need to start ...

I thought a failure to start was where this thread, er, started!

 

[Refueler]

I thought a failure to start was where this thread, er, started!

Start is fine ... its domestic 'dispute' ....

 

[billskip]

Start is fine ... its domestic 'dispute' ....

It wouldn't be the same without them.
There will always be somebody challenging my position as forum idiot...I'm used to it....