Alex_Blackwood
Well-known member
Why would we challenge that??It wouldn't be the same without them.
There will always be somebody challenging my position as forum idiot...I'm used to it....
You hang on to it 
Batts died .... and Bosch Relay
- Thread starter Refueler
- Start date
You hang on to it 
billskip
Well-known member
You would be surprised, there are some that I'm finding very difficult to fend off.Why would we challenge that??
Come to think of it you must be the only one that hasn't got me on ignore
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
You would be surprised, there are some that I'm finding very difficult to fend off.
Come to think of it you must be the only one that hasn't got me on ignore
I understand where you are coming from as there are some who just to get brownie points
Refueler
Well-known member
You would be surprised, there are some that I'm finding very difficult to fend off.
Come to think of it you must be the only one that hasn't got me on ignore
Not on my Ignore list ........
yet !!
Stemar
Well-known member
Not Brownie points, IMHO. More like something else brown
Nothing drives me away from an otherwise interesting thread quicker than personal insults. You can tell someone they're factually wrong without personal insults - evidence works much better to instruct people. You can even offer a alternative opinion politely - it's allowed. "You're an idiot who's never understood anything in your life" is not an alternative opinion (even if it is correct), nor is is banter.
billskip
Well-known member
I'm familiar with that, is on par with tinnitus...
Refueler
Well-known member
Not Brownie points, IMHO. More like something else brown
Nothing drives me away from an otherwise interesting thread quicker than personal insults. You can tell someone they're factually wrong without personal insults - evidence works much better to instruct people. You can even offer a alternative opinion politely - it's allowed. "You're an idiot who's never understood anything in your life" is not an alternative opinion (even if it is correct), nor is is banter.
If you want personal insults ... Stemar - you are long enough on here to maybe remember 'Clive' and his totally outrageous insulting posts to myself and my Wife ... that actually got us both banned - I was banned without even having chance to reply etc. He was re-instated with nothing lost ... I got back but all the fuel specs / data etc. was deleted ....
Refueler
Well-known member
Anyway ... its been a few days since the two batterys were charged and then left to sit ... checked just now ...
13.13V and 13.17V ... so maybe all is not lost ...
I put my load tester on as well .. and all LED's lit up ...
Just need weather to be a bit better then I will return batts to boat - connect up charger and see what happens ..
Few things that have come out of this anyway :
1. Now I know how the split charge is sorted on board.
2. Solar is working - but controller is ??? Will replace controller with one with display.
3. Ammeter in switch panel is stuck on 1.5A - so that's naffed ! Need change.
But will still need to investigate the power drain ..
13.13V and 13.17V ... so maybe all is not lost ...
I put my load tester on as well .. and all LED's lit up ...
Just need weather to be a bit better then I will return batts to boat - connect up charger and see what happens ..
Few things that have come out of this anyway :
1. Now I know how the split charge is sorted on board.
2. Solar is working - but controller is ??? Will replace controller with one with display.
3. Ammeter in switch panel is stuck on 1.5A - so that's naffed ! Need change.
But will still need to investigate the power drain ..
Refueler
Well-known member
Something I did few days ago ... put a new 12v 17A/hr SLA in my old Emergency Starter pack ...
I forgot I had it ... bought it way back in 80's in UK .....
Works a treat again !! Will now be stowed away in back of car just in case !!
Before anyone suggests ... yes I have considered the Li based packs you see online .. I know a few people who have them. One worked OK to start his petrol VW Golf ... but failed on the diesel other car he has. Just not enough oooomph. Other guys with them I know said not to waste money on ...
Must admit when I read the numbers on their sales blurb ... I think some are 'optimistic' !! Anyway - the SLA was cheaper than even a budget Li based starter pack.
I forgot I had it ... bought it way back in 80's in UK .....
Works a treat again !! Will now be stowed away in back of car just in case !!
Before anyone suggests ... yes I have considered the Li based packs you see online .. I know a few people who have them. One worked OK to start his petrol VW Golf ... but failed on the diesel other car he has. Just not enough oooomph. Other guys with them I know said not to waste money on ...
Must admit when I read the numbers on their sales blurb ... I think some are 'optimistic' !! Anyway - the SLA was cheaper than even a budget Li based starter pack.
Refueler
Well-known member
Here's the panel ...
Thinking to install a 3 pos switch to make Voltmeter show Domestic or Engine ... (I have that on my other boat ... )
The KNOP meter ?? not sure what to do with that !!
Same KNOP meter is sat in middle of above displays ... thinking to remove it and put my engine RPM display there instead.
Thinking to install a 3 pos switch to make Voltmeter show Domestic or Engine ... (I have that on my other boat ... )
The KNOP meter ?? not sure what to do with that !!
Same KNOP meter is sat in middle of above displays ... thinking to remove it and put my engine RPM display there instead.
Refueler
Well-known member
The discharge of the two domestic batts ... this has me baffled ... more I think about it - the more I am not so sure why ..
All through summer - there was only one time they ran low - I left fridge on full for about the 8hr sail and then overnight - we had no shore power. But other than that - they survived with chargers maintaining.
Boat is lifted out .. batts are fine until January when bham they are flat .. Prior - the charger showed them charged and being maintained.
Chargers have auto start that kicks in when batts get to low voltage .. and anything up to 6A charge rate. So why did batts run down ? Even if there was a power drain - surely 6A charger should be enough to counter it ..
Fridge and isolator switch were all off ...
Not looking fwd to humping them back on board ....
All through summer - there was only one time they ran low - I left fridge on full for about the 8hr sail and then overnight - we had no shore power. But other than that - they survived with chargers maintaining.
Boat is lifted out .. batts are fine until January when bham they are flat .. Prior - the charger showed them charged and being maintained.
Chargers have auto start that kicks in when batts get to low voltage .. and anything up to 6A charge rate. So why did batts run down ? Even if there was a power drain - surely 6A charger should be enough to counter it ..
Fridge and isolator switch were all off ...
Not looking fwd to humping them back on board ....
BabaYaga
Well-known member
KNOP is knot in English, so the display likely shows speed.Here's the panel ...
Thinking to install a 3 pos switch to make Voltmeter show Domestic or Engine ... (I have that on my other boat ... )
The KNOP meter ?? not sure what to do with that !!
Same KNOP meter is sat in middle of above displays ... thinking to remove it and put my engine RPM display there instead.
Refueler
Well-known member
That's what we all thought and seller (Swedish) said ... but they don't work ... and the hatch garage display is circular dial job - while the panel is more like ammeter style.
Refueler
Well-known member
!@#$%^&*( ..... just received a new charger ... User variable voltage .. User variable Amps .... Pulse settings .. Maintenance settings .... nice piece of kit ...
Then I noted - 110 - 120V only !! No its not even universal .. so now I need an adaptor to step down 240 to 120 ... DRAT DOUBLE DRAT !!
Bought it based on a recc'd from close pal .. he sent me the link ... I gave it a quick look - basically looked at the modes and ordered ...
It was when I took out of box and noticed the US flat style two pin plug ... UGH !!
Then I noted - 110 - 120V only !! No its not even universal .. so now I need an adaptor to step down 240 to 120 ... DRAT DOUBLE DRAT !!
Bought it based on a recc'd from close pal .. he sent me the link ... I gave it a quick look - basically looked at the modes and ordered ...
It was when I took out of box and noticed the US flat style two pin plug ... UGH !!
billskip
Well-known member
You always wanted a 240/110 transformer....now you can justify....
Refueler
Well-known member
I was looking fwd to siting this on the boat ... but not with that adaptor ... I don't like trusting multiple links in a system.
I have another multi-mode charger coming - checked order - that's universal 110 - 240v ...
Refueler
Well-known member
Today I decided to have a go at the boat before the forecast snow starts again.
Lifted the two 75A/hr Lead acids on board - they were checked before leaving home and they have stayed at 13.2V for days now idle.
Dropped into boxes .... and connected up .. what was that noise ?? A gurgle and a buzz ......
Now I know what discharged the batts ... automatic bilge pump was stuck on ... I'd forgotten to lift it clear of bilge bottom when laying boat up. The pump is a strange pump I have never seen before with what I thought was solid state detector fixed to the side of ..... mmm I'm wondering if its not solid state as usually they do not stick on even with ice.
Anyway - for now I just cut the +ve wire and will sort out later.
This is interesting - when boat was afloat - we could not get the auto to work. Now we cannot get it to stop !!
Whoever wired it in was daft anyway .. on my other boat - I have a 3 way switch ... Auto - OFF - Manual ON. But this boat has only Auto - Manual ON with no over-ride OFF.
Once I get a new switch - I will swap out the 2 pos switch for a 3 way.
Another good bit of news - once I put the batterys back in .. the solar controller came to life showing LED's lit and feeding 14.4V out .... amps would have been very low but at least it was working. It has no display so I had already decided that I would swap out the controller for one with LCD display. 10 mins later - all done and now I can see at a glance state of the house bank ....
Lifted the two 75A/hr Lead acids on board - they were checked before leaving home and they have stayed at 13.2V for days now idle.
Dropped into boxes .... and connected up .. what was that noise ?? A gurgle and a buzz ......
Now I know what discharged the batts ... automatic bilge pump was stuck on ... I'd forgotten to lift it clear of bilge bottom when laying boat up. The pump is a strange pump I have never seen before with what I thought was solid state detector fixed to the side of ..... mmm I'm wondering if its not solid state as usually they do not stick on even with ice.
Anyway - for now I just cut the +ve wire and will sort out later.
This is interesting - when boat was afloat - we could not get the auto to work. Now we cannot get it to stop !!
Whoever wired it in was daft anyway .. on my other boat - I have a 3 way switch ... Auto - OFF - Manual ON. But this boat has only Auto - Manual ON with no over-ride OFF.
Once I get a new switch - I will swap out the 2 pos switch for a 3 way.
Another good bit of news - once I put the batterys back in .. the solar controller came to life showing LED's lit and feeding 14.4V out .... amps would have been very low but at least it was working. It has no display so I had already decided that I would swap out the controller for one with LCD display. 10 mins later - all done and now I can see at a glance state of the house bank ....
Refueler
Well-known member
The question now is whether to replace the pump (which works fine) with an all in one auto pump - or to replace the add on auto switch ?
I've had the solid state Water Witch before .. which was good for a couple of years then just became unreliable. I have a couple of the paddle type float switches - but they need quite a height of water before they activate etc.
Decisions ... decisions ...
I've had the solid state Water Witch before .. which was good for a couple of years then just became unreliable. I have a couple of the paddle type float switches - but they need quite a height of water before they activate etc.
Decisions ... decisions ...
PaulRainbow
Well-known member
My engine room pump is connected to a Whale sensor, works well ( the model with a 30 second off delay). They occasionally needs a wipe or they don't always switch off properly. Better than the Olde Worlde float switch IMO.
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
I only us separate pump and level switch so if one fails I only have to replace one not both.
On my previous boat I went through several switches but now use the one below as the electrical side is not in the bilge.
Jabsco Hydro Air Switch | Xylem US
If you wish a cheep way would be to find a water level switch from a automatic washing machine
On my previous boat I went through several switches but now use the one below as the electrical side is not in the bilge.
Jabsco Hydro Air Switch | Xylem US
If you wish a cheep way would be to find a water level switch from a automatic washing machine