Applying new name letters ?

pragmatist

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We are re-naming our new-to-us boat and have removed the previous name. About to polish hull with Meguiar's. Should we be applying the name before or after polishing ? And any tips for doing a good job when applying the letters? She may be called SNAFU 2 but it would be nice if it was not a total snafu !
 

Norman_E

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When I put the SSR number on my boat I cleaned the area first with a mildly abrasive compound to remove any existing wax polish. After applying the vinyl numbers I wax polished. Whether thats the best proceedure or not, I don't know, but I worked for me and the numbers were still stuck after 15 years.
 

pvb

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I'd clean the area thoroughly and apply the new name before polishing. Did removing the old name leave patches of non-faded gelcoat?
 

KompetentKrew

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And any tips for doing a good job when applying the letters? She may be called SNAFU 2 but it would be nice if it was not a total snafu !
Assuming you're going to a local vinyl cutter and getting the name pre-cut.

In that case, the whole name comes on a single sheet, with backing and a front sheet too.

I have just deleted most of my comment, as I was explaining in more depth than necessary considering how many YouTube videos show how.

All the vids I found demonstrated the same process that was explained by the guy that supplied me with the letters - you secure it with masking tape on both sides whilst aligning it, then secure the middle; take the backing off one side and stick it, then do the other.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+apply+vinyl+letters+to+boat
 
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pvb

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Assuming you're going to a local vinyl cutter and getting the name pre-cut.

In that case, the whole name comes on a single sheet, with backing and a front sheet too.

I have just deleted most of my comment, as I was explaining in more depth than necessary considering I was going to close with advising you watch a couple of YouTube videos.

All the vids I found demonstrated the same process that was explained by the guy that supplied me with the letters - you secure it with masking tape on both sides whilst aligning it, then secure the middle; take the backing off one side and stick it, then do the other.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+apply+vinyl+letters+to+boat

YouTube videos are a good suggestion. I've always recommended wet application, it achieves better results.
 

johnalison

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Our first guests on our new boat ran a company making these signs. His gift to us was our name in vinyl, which still looks good after twenty years. I watched him apply the two plates but didn't pay enough attention to provide useful advice unfortunately. My only tip is to avoid a joke name that may not sound as funny after a few years.
 

Tradewinds

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Our first guests on our new boat ran a company making these signs. His gift to us was our name in vinyl, which still looks good after twenty years. I watched him apply the two plates but didn't pay enough attention to provide useful advice unfortunately. My only tip is to avoid a joke name that may not sound as funny after a few years.
Back in the late 70s my wife and I built a Fireball racing dinghy which we named "Tempers Fugit".

As a husband & wife crew I thought that it was quite clever at the time.
 
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graham

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If you get any air bubbles prick them with a needle works .I had to prick two or three bubbles on mine and they don't show unless you get really close up .
 

Caraway

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My only tip is to avoid a joke name that may not sound as funny after a few years.

Yacht-Names-Moody-Cow-01.jpg
 

pragmatist

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Thank you to all. I did rather think that sticking it over polish might not be a good idea. Fortunately I don't think there has been much in the way of marking from the original name. We won't be sorry about SNAFU - we had the first version for 9 years and it provided amusement to all, including the Coastguard when we radioed in one stormy night :) I like the idea of it all on one sheet - hadn't realised that was possible. I shall point this out to HWMBO who is to do the ordering.

Wishing you all some decent boating this summer.

Thanks

Penny
 

AntarcticPilot

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I was going to start a new thread, but adding to this seems like a good idea. I've ordered new names from FunkyMonkey to replace the existing ones. The $64,000 question, is how do I remove the old names, which were painted on before I bought Capricious, and were touched up with Humbrol lacquer about ten years ago! The paint is very faded and worn, but what's the best way to remove it without damaging the underlying gelcoat?
 

Leighb

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I was going to start a new thread, but adding to this seems like a good idea. I've ordered new names from FunkyMonkey to replace the existing ones. The $64,000 question, is how do I remove the old names, which were painted on before I bought Capricious, and were touched up with Humbrol lacquer about ten years ago! The paint is very faded and worn, but what's the best way to remove it without damaging the underlying gelcoat?
We had this problem with renaming our current boat. A skilled friend did the job. He used very fine W&D about 1000 I think with soapy water to remove the old lettering, then cut back the surface and applied the new letters. He then repolished the transom. Job looked great.
 

AntarcticPilot

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We had this problem with renaming our current boat. A skilled friend did the job. He used very fine W&D about 1000 I think with soapy water to remove the old lettering, then cut back the surface and applied the new letters. He then repolished the transom. Job looked great.
Thanks - that sounds like a good approach. The other problem I have is how to get at the bow on the side away from the pontoon.........
 

Trundlebug

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To apply the new name, get a plant sprayer and spray the area liberally with water.
This enables you to move the new name around to position it correctly, before pressing down and squeezing the water out using a plastic spreader, (rather like a cross between a credit card and a spreader you get with a tin of filler or P40). Always press outwards from the centre and push out any water droplets.
That way there are no air bubbles and no tears in the top covering, which you only peel off (carefully) after pressing everything down well.

I would compound the area first, as recommended above.
 

AntarcticPilot

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Move the boat temporarily to another pontoon?
Surely that's much too simple for the forum! I was expecting an arcane discussion of how to rig staging over the side - with at least two different and mutually exclusive views of how it should be done, with the exponents of each method at daggers drawn :D I decided a smiley was necessary in case anyone took me seriously!
 

pvb

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Surely that's much too simple for the forum! I was expecting an arcane discussion of how to rig staging over the side - with at least two different and mutually exclusive views of how it should be done, with the exponents of each method at daggers drawn :D I decided a smiley was necessary in case anyone took me seriously!

Ha! I'm merely a simple engineer.... ;)
 

Caraway

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We had this problem with renaming our current boat. A skilled friend did the job. He used very fine W&D about 1000 I think with soapy water to remove the old lettering, then cut back the surface and applied the new letters. He then repolished the transom. Job looked great.
Do not use your fingers on the wet'n'dry paper. Use a proper rubber block or a bit of softwood with the edges just slightlty radiused. You only want to remove the high points (the paint) fingers will delve into the gaps between the letters and remove gel coat.
Using a block lets you use more aggressive paper. As you are trying to remove paint, rather than smooth it, I would have used 640 or 800 grade.
61%2BaVI-XqEL._AC_SL1379_.jpg


I have one of these, but often use a narrower wood block for fiddly areas/
 
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