Any ideas what these are for?
- Thread starter jaminb
- Start date
pmagowan
Well-known member
You tie them on to things if you want to pull or apply force. The hard bits at the end help with attaching them to whatever you want to pull. The rolly bits allow you to multiply force or change the direction of force with low friction.
If you already have all the bits of string you desire do away with them. They tend to gather in lockers when you are not looking
If you already have all the bits of string you desire do away with them. They tend to gather in lockers when you are not looking
neil_s
Well-known member
Barber haulers for the spinny?
jaminb
Active member
Very good. Came with the boat haven’t found a use for them in 2.5 years. Off they go!You tie them on to things if you want to pull or apply force. The hard bits at the end help with attaching them to whatever you want to pull. The rolly bits allow you to multiply force or change the direction of force with low friction.
If you already have all the bits of string you desire do away with them. They tend to gather in lockers when you are not looking
jaminb
Active member
That’s what I was leaning towards. I have guys and sheets so not sure if they are necessary? I did see Pip Hare’s video where she says pull the BH/tweekers on before a gybe. So maybe keep them on board?
pmagowan
Well-known member
Yep, if you haven't used them before, unlikely you will test them out on the RTIR. Although a good rule of thumb is that anything useless you remove from the boat will become the most useful bit of kit ever devised as soon as you are out at sea.
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
jaminb
Active member
jaminb
Active member
nigel1
Active member
Looks OK to me, I have a single cam cleat block mounted at the tow rail about midships, 8mm line through it and I use a small snatch block over the gennaker sheet for sailing deeper angles, reduces the clew bouncing around.
By the way, what diameter of Selden bow sprit is that, and the make of the stanchion mounts?
Edit, bit of googling and they look like Forespar pole chocks. Only go up to 3.5 inch, I have a 99mm bowsprit, could not find any suitable stanchion chocks and ended up with a mate turning up a couple of HDPE rings, to which I fitted stanchion brackets
By the way, what diameter of Selden bow sprit is that, and the make of the stanchion mounts?
Edit, bit of googling and they look like Forespar pole chocks. Only go up to 3.5 inch, I have a 99mm bowsprit, could not find any suitable stanchion chocks and ended up with a mate turning up a couple of HDPE rings, to which I fitted stanchion brackets
Attachments
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jaminb
Active member
Thanks Nìgel think it should go outside guard wires.
bowsprit is 75mm diameter and the clamps are Forespar. The angle of the mounting on the pulpit means it doesn’t quite fit but a bit of shock cord secures.
jaminb
Active member
rogerthebodger
Well-known member
I have generally used a block on the end of the barbers hauler with the block running on the spanker sheet to reduce ware on the sheet
William_H
Well-known member
Apart from barber hauler for spinnaker sheets ( I hope OP has plenty of spin flying experience before he uses it in the race so would already know their use) ) they could also be used as barbner hauler for jib sheet. ie when reaching or even running it can be useful to pull the sheeting point forward and outboard to get better set of jib. ol'will
Porthandbuoy
Well-known member
Very useful for fine trimming the genoa sheeting angle under load when you have a few rolls in. Lifting the pin and sliding the car forward is usually impossible unless you let the sheet fly; not something you want to do in a race.
Neeves
Well-known member
As Barber hauls yours would really need be attached in anticipation - or change the blocks to snatch blocks (which are commonly not very cheap).
For our spin sheets we would attach the barber hauls in advance. For Jenny trimming we would use snatch blocks, but we might use 2 sheets - it all depends on your kit (winches) and imagination.
Jonathan
If you don't rig barber hauls in advance you will never use them, too much hassle as you need slack in the sheet(s) to rig the barber hauls. So.....unless you are seriously going to use them - put them back in the bag and forget them.
For our spin sheets we would attach the barber hauls in advance. For Jenny trimming we would use snatch blocks, but we might use 2 sheets - it all depends on your kit (winches) and imagination.
Jonathan
If you don't rig barber hauls in advance you will never use them, too much hassle as you need slack in the sheet(s) to rig the barber hauls. So.....unless you are seriously going to use them - put them back in the bag and forget them.
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William_H
Well-known member
Well actually barbner haulers on jib sheets can be left attached ie sheet runs through the pulley or ring when not in use. Sheets are not hindered by barber hauler being attached. Having said that I carry barber haulers for jib wen racing but in reality do not bother to use them. Just lazy and reaching legs too short. ol'will
Neeves
Well-known member
We would take all our sails off and roll them, with the sheets, after each weekend of racing, the spinnaker would be neatly bagged and the sheets removed from the deck, coiled and stored. The barber hauls for the spinnaker we ran through blocks on the toe rails, the tail led aft - so they could be controlled when in use from the cockpit (you don't want crew dancing around on the foredeck to trim barber hauls).
When racing all the sheets, barber hauls etc would be installed simply as part of 'rigging' the yacht. The bowman (or woman) would check all the spinnaker gear, pole, sheets and barber hauls etc - as if something was wrong - they had to sort it out (with an impatient crew offering advice + a quietly seething owner)).
Now - we don't have crew and don't use a spinnaker but do have 45m^2 screecher and a 35m^2 Genoa both on furlers and both of which have their own Barber hauls. The barber hauls are left rigged. We also have a third sheet for the Genoa (and 100% jib) so that we can use two sheets, to better pull the sail inboard and point higher. We don't actually have enough winches for all of this and the 3rd sheet might be cross sheeted to a winch on the leeward side. In the absence of crew our barber hauls have snatch blocks so if the owner forgets to install, and no-one need seeth (we have no timetable) - and snatch blocks are so much easier to use when rigging a barber haul.
As racing tends to be a younger mans sport, with a steady income, we no longer roll sails, except rolling the headsails onto the furler, so they stay on the bow 365 - unless we will not be using the cat - we then take the screecher off and flake it and store below with its sheets still attached.
Our sheets are continuous, all of them. We have sewn the sheets into hollow dyneema braid (sized for the sheets) and sewn the sheets to the braid with dyneeme braided fishing line. We leave the centre of the braid empty (so its like tape), and then cow hitch the braid to the sail, each sail, Jib, Genoa and screecher has its own sheets. We did the same thing when racing as braided hollow tape flattens and you simply do not get hang ups when tacking (as important in racing as short handed cruising).
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My attitude was - if you are racing but not racing to win - then you are not serious. Laziness was not a word used on 'JoXephine of Hong Kong'.
Lazy crew did not last long as crew members.Its easy to sail badly - what else are you doing on long passages when cruising - trim the sails to get the best out of them and use your skills. If pottering about, makes no difference - on a 200nm passage - better to arrive early for a tidal gate than late and better anchored snug before the front arrives.
Jonathan
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