Antares 760 thread

Pleinmont

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Btw, I fitted that K&N air filter last week - at the risk of being taken in by marketing the engine does feel like it's a bit more responsive.
Esp around the mid range revs like you said.
Pleased with it ? Thanks for the tip
 

Pleinmont

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Question re cable routing...
How easy is it to pull a cable from the stern lazarette forward and up into to the electrics space behind the helm (by the fridge)?
It's for the 3-1 transducer cable& plug.
The gap with the steering cables looks typically tight and awkward so I wondered if easier to drill a couple 30mm holes high in the bulkheads and go via the engine bay. If so anyone done this before (fuel tank seems to be mostly in the way).

I fitted the transom transducer ages ago and I was going to run the cables and connect it a couple months ago then found all the bracket screws had corroded which put me back.
I've now epoxied the transducer to the bracket permanently and reattached to the stern bracket (with all new SS fittings as the original Navico bolts had also corroded when i tried doing this a few weeks ago). So many typical boat setbacks :poop::)
Hull holes are drilled and sealed and cable is coiled in the lazarette so finally good to go now but the last bit of cable routing looks set to cause more swearing, neck pain and bloody knuckles. :rolleyes:
 

Plum

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Question re cable routing...
How easy is it to pull a cable from the stern lazarette forward and up into to the electrics space behind the helm (by the fridge)?
It's for the 3-1 transducer cable& plug.
The gap with the steering cables looks typically tight and awkward so I wondered if easier to drill a couple 30mm holes high in the bulkheads and go via the engine bay. If so anyone done this before (fuel tank seems to be mostly in the way).

I fitted the transom transducer ages ago and I was going to run the cables and connect it a couple months ago then found all the bracket screws had corroded which put me back.
I've now epoxied the transducer to the bracket permanently and reattached to the stern bracket (with all new SS fittings as the original Navico bolts had also corroded when i tried doing this a few weeks ago). So many typical boat setbacks :poop::)
Hull holes are drilled and sealed and cable is coiled in the lazarette so finally good to go now but the last bit of cable routing looks set to cause more swearing, neck pain and bloody knuckles. :rolleyes:
Hi, not easy at all. Personally I would not run wires through the engine space as I like to keep that area completely uncluttered. Based on my experience I would crawl into the aft lazerette on the starboard side and look forward and if there is not already a suitable hole in the plywood bulkhead drill one 50mm diameter. Then, in the locker forward where the calorifier is, cut an access hatch in the thin plywood panel outboard and above the calorifer. Now, from the lazerette feed a 1 or 1.5 inch pvc hose through the cavity on the starboard side untill it can be reached from the access hatch above the calorifer then feed that end of the hose upwards so you can grab it from behind the fridge from the hatch that gives access to the instruments. Now you have a tube/cabletrunking that you can feed cables through with ease and I can guarantee you will need to run more cables in that tube in the future.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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Jamie Dundee

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Question re cable routing...
How easy is it to pull a cable from the stern lazarette forward and up into to the electrics space behind the helm (by the fridge)?
It's for the 3-1 transducer cable& plug.
The gap with the steering cables looks typically tight and awkward so I wondered if easier to drill a couple 30mm holes high in the bulkheads and go via the engine bay. If so anyone done this before (fuel tank seems to be mostly in the way).

I fitted the transom transducer ages ago and I was going to run the cables and connect it a couple months ago then found all the bracket screws had corroded which put me back.
I've now epoxied the transducer to the bracket permanently and reattached to the stern bracket (with all new SS fittings as the original Navico bolts had also corroded when i tried doing this a few weeks ago). So many typical boat setbacks :poop::)
Hull holes are drilled and sealed and cable is coiled in the lazarette so finally good to go now but the last bit of cable routing looks set to cause more swearing, neck pain and bloody knuckles. :rolleyes:
I had no trouble going under the tank on the port side of the lazarette, some cables already run there, just to the left of the port beam. i pushed a coat hanger through from the engine compartment and pulled the trim tab and transducer cables through. See photos.
Edit; you can go straight under the sound proofing, the bulkhead doesn’t go down to the engine bay floor.
A6914A4E-DEA3-4A05-969D-4B45E98E627A.jpegF768384B-C5B6-4830-BEA2-E8E75D62DCEC.jpeg
 
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Pleinmont

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Brilliant. Thanks for the replies chaps!
The PVC pipe would be neat but I will def have a look at Jamie's idea - I don't mind a few cables in the engine bay if they are kept neat and clipped down and there's less drilling by the sounds of it.
I was hoping there might be a gap around the bulkheads ?

My lazarette is full of random (but clearly essential?) stuff and there's a carpet on the bottom for the outboard to sit on so I've never actually seen it empty enough to see it like the pics above :giggle:
Maybe time for a tidy up and take 30kg out the boat that rarely if ever gets used...
 

Jamie Dundee

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Brilliant. Thanks for the replies chaps!
The PVC pipe would be neat but I will def have a look at Jamie's idea - I don't mind a few cables in the engine bay if they are kept neat and clipped down and there's less drilling by the sounds of it.
I was hoping there might be a gap around the bulkheads ?

My lazarette is full of random (but clearly essential?) stuff and there's a carpet on the bottom for the outboard to sit on so I've never actually seen it empty enough to see it like the pics above :giggle:
Maybe time for a tidy up and take 30kg out the boat that rarely if ever gets used...
I took the ply cover out of the lazarette to replace the float switch with an auto bilge pump. Loads more room without the ply and easier access to the pump, I just put a small piece of ply in to protect the pump.
 

Pleinmont

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I took the ply cover out of the lazarette to replace the float switch with an auto bilge pump. Loads more room without the ply and easier access to the pump, I just put a small piece of ply in to protect the pump.

Aha! The stuff you learn.... Mainly because of my carpet and ply blocking the view I just presumed the engine bay was somehow totally separate and properly blocked off from the lazarette.
I had no idea there was very easy access around the tank back into the engine area.

But looking at your photo and remembering I had some pictures from down by the shaft seal (when i was trying to source a leak last year) I've just seen it's all fully open under and around the tank (just very dark in mine).
I dug out the pics from last year and recognised those holes in the beams (assume they are the same as in yours with the cables pulled through?).
Agree just need to move the ply.

Thanks again!
 

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Jamie Dundee

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I dug out the pics from last year and recognised those holes in the beams (assume they are the same as in yours with the cables pulled through?).
Took me a while to orient myself but I think yes. I wouldn’t go through the shaft tunnel though, go to port of the port side longitudinal beam. Much tidier and runs straight through. You can then run cables across the battery box in front of the engine and follow the other cabling into the area behind the helm where the calorifier is.
 

Pleinmont

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Took me a while to orient myself but I think yes. I wouldn’t go through the shaft tunnel though, go to port of the port side longitudinal beam. Much tidier and runs straight through. You can then run cables across the battery box in front of the engine and follow the other cabling into the area behind the helm where the calorifier is.

Nice one - yes will run the cables down the port side. Hopefully sort it out this week ?
Thanks for the advice
 

Jamie Dundee

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That doesn't sound good at all.... :(
I did put the sensor back before filling the tank…..

Project for winter is to cut three inspection hatches into the tank, along with a new level sensor. Also new diesel and water fillers as I’ve got a feeling the diesel filler is leaking despite a new seal. Whose stupid idea was it to place the fillers directly in the path of water running down the side walkways? ?
 

Mr Googler

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I did put the sensor back before filling the tank…..

Project for winter is to cut three inspection hatches into the tank, along with a new level sensor. Also new diesel and water fillers as I’ve got a feeling the diesel filler is leaking despite a new seal. Whose stupid idea was it to place the fillers directly in the path of water running down the side walkways? ?
Well it is French
 

Plum

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I did put the sensor back before filling the tank…..

Project for winter is to cut three inspection hatches into the tank, along with a new level sensor. Also new diesel and water fillers as I’ve got a feeling the diesel filler is leaking despite a new seal. Whose stupid idea was it to place the fillers directly in the path of water running down the side walkways? ?
Just in case you have the wrong size O-ring in the filler cap, the fuel and water filler cap O-rings are 40mm ID and 5.3mm diameter section.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

Plum

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I had no trouble going under the tank on the port side of the lazarette, some cables already run there, just to the left of the port beam. i pushed a coat hanger through from the engine compartment and pulled the trim tab and transducer cables through. See photos.
Edit; you can go straight under the sound proofing, the bulkhead doesn’t go down to the engine bay floor.
View attachment 120742View attachment 120743
What is the white device with electrical cable plugged in to it shown on the left of your picture?
 
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