VicS
Well-Known Member
I don't often get confused on these forums but I'm puzzled by who Straightshooter is?
Richard
Vyv's Sadler 34 ITYWF
Anchoring procedure
- Thread starter smert
- Start date
Vyv's Sadler 34 ITYWF
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
I thought Vyv's boat was Straitshooter. As in menai strait.
Poignard
Well-Known Member
It's also pleasing to see a skill being exercised. :encouragement:
Uricanejack
Well-Known Member
How does the bear communicate the feeling of dragging or not?
Perhaps more to the point, how do you find being in close quarters with a bear, on a boat?
I think a swift departure is warranted for me now. Sorry, the goal was wide open.
I have never had the actual problem on my Boat, Just my campsite. My friend had one come down on to his boat while he was cleaning fish at the dock. He left the boat fish and the bear. The best advice is don't leave your boat, canoe, kayak, tent car or camper. unattended with your fish or food still on board. If a Bear does stop by leave the Bear alone. Stand up tall make a little bit of noise so it knows you are there and back away slowly. Don't get between a hungry bear and its dinner. Or Mama Bear and her cub.
Call insurance afterwards.
Some people carry bear spray. I carry a small air horn. A sudden loud noise will hopefully startle and scare a Bear away. Unfortunately a sudden loud noise may also startle and scare a Bear. A Startled Bears response may be fight or flight.
I think there is a YouTube video Bear in the boat in Port Renfrew.
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RichardS
N/A
Errrrrr ...... OK, but why "people with the experience of Straightshooter"
Is there something on this thread that I've missed?
Richard
Tranona
Well-Known Member
That may well be the case - and I have had rounds of applause when anchoring under sail off Pottery Pier in Poole - although that may be because of the aesthetics of the boat I was sailing rather than my skills!
Anyway, judging from the continuous stream of threads about anchoring and anchors on here it is obviously something that many (not just beginners) have difficulty with. So the overriding need is to develop your own technique for anchoring securely in the place you want to be. Getting the boat prepared beforehand and doing it with the aid of the motor enhances the chances of success.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I don't often get confused on these forums but I'm puzzled by who Straightshooter is?
Richard
It's me, although the boat name is actually Straitshooter. The poster presumably uses zoom! the name is in the logo.
RichardS
N/A
So that's the answer. I've scoured this thread several times looking for "Straitshooter" or even "Straightshooter" but without success. I thought I was losing my marbles but with my eyesight I was never going to be able to see your logo that clearly.
An unusual riddle to end the old year and start the new one.
Happy New Year to everyone.
Richard
laika
Well-Known Member
I still think we have to answer smert's question about procedure, not skipping only to the parts we think are controversial. I'm not an expert but I managed to write a mini-essay on this which twice got timed out when I tried to post it so let's go with a super-abbreviated version Feel free to pile in with alternate styles/opinions.
- Before you go agree what the roles are, who runs the show and what the consequent hand signals should be. With 2 people one on the bow/anchor and one on the helm is the norm. Either can direct but the anchor person doing so is arguably better. Same person doesn't have to have same role each time you anchor
- Work out the tidal curve for the anchorage: time and height of high and low water and height when you are going to arrive: Either do it before you leave and note down heights at, say, 30 min intervals around estimated arrival, or do the final calc when nearly there. Keep the figures with you pilotage notes. Difference between "current" height and low water tells you where you can anchor. Difference to high water tells you how much chain you'll need
- Obviously examine the chart, know the pilotage, hidden obstructions, cables, foul ground etc.
- If you're on bow, DO share pilotage info with the helm. This allows you to say "take us in" while preparing the anchor rather than having the helm go in circles outside the anchorage until you're ready
- Know where your anchor ball, shoes, gloves and ~3m of stretch nylon rope are
- Ideally when you're sheltered but while you've still got room before tangling with other boats, put the engine on, come head to wind, drop and secure the sails.
- Put on gloves and shoes with toe protection
- get the helm to take you in while you flake chain on deck per Sandy's earlier suggestion and everyone's comments about length of chain. Do secure the inboard end to a samson post/cleat. Holding a 27' boat by the chain in light winds is quite do-able but it's not a good habit to rely on being able to do it.
- your carefully pre-planned spot will be taken so check your notes / chart again if you need to and get the helm to motor round another likely spot. If you're on the bow get the helm to call out depths. You're interested in the areas you'll swing around where you drop as well as where you drop. Look at the bottom if you can see it . Avoid weed if possible: When it's weed over sand, the weedy bits are darker
- when you find your spot communicate it clearly to the helm and have them come slowly around to approach the spot head to tide if there is any, head to wind otherwise.
- pull the pin on the bow roller and lower the anchor to the waterline. Direct the helm using your hand signals whilst holding the anchor if you can, otherwise secure it so it can be easily released
- approach should be dead slow, then engine into neutral with the objective of coming to a stop at the drop point. Cheating with a little reverse may be acceptable.
- when the boat loses way, drop the anchor. We'll get some debate here about controlled paying out vs. just dropping
- If there's no significant tide you may want the helm to apply slow reverse. This will not be textbook chugging back in a straight line the way you came: The wind will have taken the bow when you stopped. Your prop walk will take you somewhere other than straight back. It won't look how you imagined it but expect this and don't worry
- the chain should eventually come taught. Feel it: it shouldn't be "jumping" (alternating slack and tight)
- find an object shore in line with another further behind it (a transit) and check they're not moving relative to each other (i.e. you are stationary)
- get the helm to increase revs (ref: preceding debate). Still not moving? Great. Engine off. Get helm to pass you the anchor ball and rope and put the kettle on
- If you need to re-lay the anchor do it. Consider another spot if it doesn't work on the second attempt.
- hoist anchor ball (and turn on anchor light if twilight)
- Haul in or let out more chain if where you anchored differed from plans in depth and/or proximity to other boats
- put the pin back in to avoid the chain jumping out of the bow roller (perhaps someone will say this is the wrong thing to do?)
- rig snubber: Essentially this is attaching stretchy rope to the chain, securing it to a spare cleat and taking the stain on the rope rather than the chain: less stressful for the boat and its occupants. I use 3 strand nylon attached to the chain with a rolling hitch. Others have special hooky things.
- Now the boat should have settled back. Come back to the cockpit, remember where you're standing and note transits so you have an idea if you've moved later. Be aware that wind will move you round a bit (and tide will obviously swing you)
I left a lot out for the sake of brevity but there should be something contentious there to start an argument about
- Before you go agree what the roles are, who runs the show and what the consequent hand signals should be. With 2 people one on the bow/anchor and one on the helm is the norm. Either can direct but the anchor person doing so is arguably better. Same person doesn't have to have same role each time you anchor
- Work out the tidal curve for the anchorage: time and height of high and low water and height when you are going to arrive: Either do it before you leave and note down heights at, say, 30 min intervals around estimated arrival, or do the final calc when nearly there. Keep the figures with you pilotage notes. Difference between "current" height and low water tells you where you can anchor. Difference to high water tells you how much chain you'll need
- Obviously examine the chart, know the pilotage, hidden obstructions, cables, foul ground etc.
- If you're on bow, DO share pilotage info with the helm. This allows you to say "take us in" while preparing the anchor rather than having the helm go in circles outside the anchorage until you're ready
- Know where your anchor ball, shoes, gloves and ~3m of stretch nylon rope are
- Ideally when you're sheltered but while you've still got room before tangling with other boats, put the engine on, come head to wind, drop and secure the sails.
- Put on gloves and shoes with toe protection
- get the helm to take you in while you flake chain on deck per Sandy's earlier suggestion and everyone's comments about length of chain. Do secure the inboard end to a samson post/cleat. Holding a 27' boat by the chain in light winds is quite do-able but it's not a good habit to rely on being able to do it.
- your carefully pre-planned spot will be taken so check your notes / chart again if you need to and get the helm to motor round another likely spot. If you're on the bow get the helm to call out depths. You're interested in the areas you'll swing around where you drop as well as where you drop. Look at the bottom if you can see it . Avoid weed if possible: When it's weed over sand, the weedy bits are darker
- when you find your spot communicate it clearly to the helm and have them come slowly around to approach the spot head to tide if there is any, head to wind otherwise.
- pull the pin on the bow roller and lower the anchor to the waterline. Direct the helm using your hand signals whilst holding the anchor if you can, otherwise secure it so it can be easily released
- approach should be dead slow, then engine into neutral with the objective of coming to a stop at the drop point. Cheating with a little reverse may be acceptable.
- when the boat loses way, drop the anchor. We'll get some debate here about controlled paying out vs. just dropping
- If there's no significant tide you may want the helm to apply slow reverse. This will not be textbook chugging back in a straight line the way you came: The wind will have taken the bow when you stopped. Your prop walk will take you somewhere other than straight back. It won't look how you imagined it but expect this and don't worry
- the chain should eventually come taught. Feel it: it shouldn't be "jumping" (alternating slack and tight)
- find an object shore in line with another further behind it (a transit) and check they're not moving relative to each other (i.e. you are stationary)
- get the helm to increase revs (ref: preceding debate). Still not moving? Great. Engine off. Get helm to pass you the anchor ball and rope and put the kettle on
- If you need to re-lay the anchor do it. Consider another spot if it doesn't work on the second attempt.
- hoist anchor ball (and turn on anchor light if twilight)
- Haul in or let out more chain if where you anchored differed from plans in depth and/or proximity to other boats
- put the pin back in to avoid the chain jumping out of the bow roller (perhaps someone will say this is the wrong thing to do?)
- rig snubber: Essentially this is attaching stretchy rope to the chain, securing it to a spare cleat and taking the stain on the rope rather than the chain: less stressful for the boat and its occupants. I use 3 strand nylon attached to the chain with a rolling hitch. Others have special hooky things.
- Now the boat should have settled back. Come back to the cockpit, remember where you're standing and note transits so you have an idea if you've moved later. Be aware that wind will move you round a bit (and tide will obviously swing you)
I left a lot out for the sake of brevity but there should be something contentious there to start an argument about
NormanS
Well-Known Member
I still think we have to answer smert's question about procedure, not skipping only to the parts we think are controversial. I'm not an expert but I managed to write a mini-essay on this which twice got timed out when I tried to post it so let's go with a super-abbreviated version Feel free to pile in with alternate styles/opinions.
- Before you go agree what the roles are, who runs the show and what the consequent hand signals should be. With 2 people one on the bow/anchor and one on the helm is the norm. Either can direct but the anchor person doing so is arguably better. Same person doesn't have to have same role each time you anchor
- Work out the tidal curve for the anchorage: time and height of high and low water and height when you are going to arrive: Either do it before you leave and note down heights at, say, 30 min intervals around estimated arrival, or do the final calc when nearly there. Keep the figures with you pilotage notes. Difference between "current" height and low water tells you where you can anchor. Difference to high water tells you how much chain you'll need
- Obviously examine the chart, know the pilotage, hidden obstructions, cables, foul ground etc.
- If you're on bow, DO share pilotage info with the helm. This allows you to say "take us in" while preparing the anchor rather than having the helm go in circles outside the anchorage until you're ready
- Know where your anchor ball, shoes, gloves and ~3m of stretch nylon rope are
- Ideally when you're sheltered but while you've still got room before tangling with other boats, put the engine on, come head to wind, drop and secure the sails.
- Put on gloves and shoes with toe protection
- get the helm to take you in while you flake chain on deck per Sandy's earlier suggestion and everyone's comments about length of chain. Do secure the inboard end to a samson post/cleat. Holding a 27' boat by the chain in light winds is quite do-able but it's not a good habit to rely on being able to do it.
- your carefully pre-planned spot will be taken so check your notes / chart again if you need to and get the helm to motor round another likely spot. If you're on the bow get the helm to call out depths. You're interested in the areas you'll swing around where you drop as well as where you drop. Look at the bottom if you can see it . Avoid weed if possible: When it's weed over sand, the weedy bits are darker
- when you find your spot communicate it clearly to the helm and have them come slowly around to approach the spot head to tide if there is any, head to wind otherwise.
- pull the pin on the bow roller and lower the anchor to the waterline. Direct the helm using your hand signals whilst holding the anchor if you can, otherwise secure it so it can be easily released
- approach should be dead slow, then engine into neutral with the objective of coming to a stop at the drop point. Cheating with a little reverse may be acceptable.
- when the boat loses way, drop the anchor. We'll get some debate here about controlled paying out vs. just dropping
- If there's no significant tide you may want the helm to apply slow reverse. This will not be textbook chugging back in a straight line the way you came: The wind will have taken the bow when you stopped. Your prop walk will take you somewhere other than straight back. It won't look how you imagined it but expect this and don't worry
- the chain should eventually come taught. Feel it: it shouldn't be "jumping" (alternating slack and tight)
- find an object shore in line with another further behind it (a transit) and check they're not moving relative to each other (i.e. you are stationary)
- get the helm to increase revs (ref: preceding debate). Still not moving? Great. Engine off. Get helm to pass you the anchor ball and rope and put the kettle on
- If you need to re-lay the anchor do it. Consider another spot if it doesn't work on the second attempt.
- hoist anchor ball (and turn on anchor light if twilight)
- Haul in or let out more chain if where you anchored differed from plans in depth and/or proximity to other boats
- put the pin back in to avoid the chain jumping out of the bow roller (perhaps someone will say this is the wrong thing to do?)
- rig snubber: Essentially this is attaching stretchy rope to the chain, securing it to a spare cleat and taking the stain on the rope rather than the chain: less stressful for the boat and its occupants. I use 3 strand nylon attached to the chain with a rolling hitch. Others have special hooky things.
- Now the boat should have settled back. Come back to the cockpit, remember where you're standing and note transits so you have an idea if you've moved later. Be aware that wind will move you round a bit (and tide will obviously swing you)
I left a lot out for the sake of brevity but there should be something contentious there to start an argument about
Well, that should be enough to put a lot of people off anchoring! The alternative approach is just to use some common sense.
noelex
Well-Known Member
I left a lot out for the sake of brevity but there should be something contentious there to start an argument about
Great summary Laika .
My only comments would be that:
In strong wind snubbers should be longer than 3m. Around 10m, or more, is better.
Flaking chain on deck is not needed with most boats.
Metal pins have the habit of bending and therefore jamming. Soft shackles or rope lashings are better. These don't bend, rarely jam and can be cut in an emergency.
laika
Well-Known Member
Fair point. I should have said "at least 3m"
What I'd do with no windlass and the chain not marked as is the OP's case, but obviously open to debate
I said that bit was arguable (it all is really) and your point here is why
Having seen some of noelex's great technical anchor posts I will generally defer in most matters (see I'm no expert disclaimer...)...
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vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I still think we have to answer smert's question about procedure, not skipping only to the parts we think are controversial. I'm not an expert but I managed to write a mini-essay on this which twice got timed out when I tried to post it so let's go with a super-abbreviated version Feel free to pile in with alternate styles/opinions.........................................
I left a lot out for the sake of brevity but there should be something contentious there to start an argument about
That seems a pretty comprehensive summary, but before the OP prints and encapsulates it for carrying to the foredeck, he will find that having more or less followed it a couple of times it will become second nature. I suppose we do all of it unconsciously, having been anchoring frequently for 30 years or more, but do not follow any set routine. By far the best way to learn is to go out and do it.
ghostlymoron
Well-Known Member
I'm lucky in having a bilge keeler (all my boats have been) so I can sail right in, even ground, provided we're not at actual high water. Wait for a bit and then walk ashore. Easy to check anchor when the tide's out and dig in further if it doesn't look good.
I usually wake up when we float again (or dry out) as I'm a light sleeper, and take the opportunity to stick my head out of the hatch and look around.
I know there are sailing advantages with single keels but anchoring close to shore, the bilge keeler wins hands down. I've never dragged even with manky old anchors and mixtures of chain and rope but admit that I don't anchor if strong are forecast.
I usually wake up when we float again (or dry out) as I'm a light sleeper, and take the opportunity to stick my head out of the hatch and look around.
I know there are sailing advantages with single keels but anchoring close to shore, the bilge keeler wins hands down. I've never dragged even with manky old anchors and mixtures of chain and rope but admit that I don't anchor if strong are forecast.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
Sail or motor in, when the depth is 2m plus rough estimate of tidal rise drop anchor plus three times current depth. Stow sails or stop engine, increase chain to three times maximum expected. At night: light and hoist hurricane lamp. In daylight: idly wonder what an anchor ball looks like. Have biccy. Read book. Snooze.
GHA
Well-Known Member
What are our steps to being safely anchored and getting the kettle on?
Think Laika might have read the question
Think Laika might have read the question
smert
Well-Known Member
Many thanks for this. It's pretty much exactly what I was looking for!
We more or less took these steps on our attempt. I guess snagging the lobster pot was just bad luck, or poor choice of location due to inexperience.
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
And there was me thinking he'd made a pretty good description of what people REALLY do (mostly without thinking about it because they've done it so many times before).
It was all common sense and an excellent description for a novice wanting to anchor for the first time. IMHO
FWIW we put the pin in. (I don't like the idea of the anchor chain jumping out of the bow roller.)
I like the description/reminder that when you apply a bit of astern after dropping the anchor the boat doesn't go in a straight line! With prop walk, wind and current the boat always sheers about all over the place. If I'm driving and Mrs M is on the bow I always get a very quizzical look that says, "What are you playing/mucking about at reversing in that direction?" If she's driving I get the same look but it's one of, "What's happening!!!?"
KellysEye
Well-Known Member
>.Right, so you reckon that 2500rpm gives you the equivalent pull of a F6-7. So what happens when it freshens up? Presumably the anchor digs in a bit more, as anchors are designed to do. So what have you achieved by starting and running your engine for 5 minutes, except unfair wear and tear on the engine?
Everyone I've seen anchoring has motored in to anchor so the engine is already on when testing the anchor. We only sailed in once to anchor when the engine had failed, then fixed the engine.
Everyone I've seen anchoring has motored in to anchor so the engine is already on when testing the anchor. We only sailed in once to anchor when the engine had failed, then fixed the engine.
Daydream believer
Well-Known Member
My preferred anchoring system is :- spring, stern line, bowline, plug the shore power in sharppish before the next bloke nicks the last available socket
As outlined in PBO this month
As outlined in PBO this month
