Anchor winch teak base

[Restoration man]

My boat has had few different brands of anchor winch’s poorly fitted over the years and I’m just fitting a new different one , I’ve had to re fiberglass the existing holes and drill new ones , the deck does t look to good in this area now , so I was thinking about setting the winch on teak base that will hide the old holes , tje boat does have a lot wood on it so it won’t be out of place ,the boat will be mostly kept on the inland water ways, with a few trips out each year onto the salty stuff , is this a bad idea for an anodised aluminium winch to be sat upon a teak pad ? I don’t want to set up any corrosion, as I said I’m going to be in fresh water most of the will I be ok ? , at some point I might fit synthetic teak deck and that will hide it but for now I was hoping this might be acceptable ?? Here Is picture of what I was thinking that’s just scrap plywood but would use teak or similar

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Nothing wrong with that, you don't seem to have a bow roller though.

 

[Poignard]

 

[dankilb]

I don’t want to set up any corrosion, as I said I’m going to be in fresh water most of the will I be ok ?

The electrolytic corrosion that eats windlesses is more due to dissimilar metals and damp, oxygen free, conditions. I'm sure salt doesn't help... But I might suggest taking further steps to completely remove the possibility of moisture getting under the base of the windlass (e.g. butyl tape).

 

[Tranona]

Paint the base of the windlass and just use the gasket that comes with the windlass. The vulnerable bases are mostly on the Cayman that originally sat on a soft rubber gasket with a lip around it which absorbed water. Also worth taking all the fastenings out and coating with Tefgel or Duralec.

 

[Restoration man]

Nothing wrong with that, you don't seem to have a bow roller though.

I’ve removed the old bow roller and I’ve got new one ready to fit ,the black tape is covering up the old holes

 

[Restoration man]

Paint the base of the windlass and just use the gasket that comes with the windlass. The vulnerable bases are mostly on the Cayman that originally sat on a soft rubber gasket with a lip around it which absorbed water. Also worth taking all the fastenings out and coating with Tefgel or Duralec.

It’s a Loftans Kobra and didn’t come with a gasket , when you say paint the base what would you use ?

 

[Hadenough]

My boat has had few different brands of anchor winch’s poorly fitted over the years and I’m just fitting a new different one , I’ve had to re fiberglass the existing holes and drill new ones , the deck does t look to good in this area now , so I was thinking about setting the winch on teak base that will hide the old holes , tje boat does have a lot wood on it so it won’t be out of place ,the boat will be mostly kept on the inland water ways, with a few trips out each year onto the salty stuff , is this a bad idea for an anodised aluminium winch to be sat upon a teak pad ? I don’t want to set up any corrosion, as I said I’m going to be in fresh water most of the will I be ok ? , at some point I might fit synthetic teak deck and that will hide it but for now I was hoping this might be acceptable ?? Here Is picture of what I was thinking that’s just scrap plywood but would use teak or similar View attachment 153531

Google Trespa off cuts.

 

[Restoration man]

Google Trespa off cuts.

looks an interesting product , I will have to have to see what the compressive strength is like , I’m fitting a g10/fr4 backing plate underneath as they have got fantastic compressive strength

 

[Fr J Hackett]

If you are going to fit a base you could run a board up to the bow roller that will save your deck from wear and tear of the chain.

 

[Tranona]

It’s a Loftans Kobra and didn’t come with a gasket , when you say paint the base what would you use ?

Hammerite all metals primer followed by top coat. I have Kobra, but already fitted but it looks like a gasket but may well be sealant - not looked too closely as it all seems OK and more than enough other things to worry about!. The Cayman on my old Bavaria did have a gasket which as I described absorbed water and the base corroded away to far for any remedial work - one corner complete with stud just crumbled away! Apart from that Lofrans are good bits of kit.

 

[Restoration man]

Hammerite all metals primer followed by top coat. I have Kobra, but already fitted but it looks like a gasket but may well be sealant - not looked too closely as it all seems OK and more than enough other things to worry about!. The Cayman on my old Bavaria did have a gasket which as I described absorbed water and the base corroded away to far for any remedial work - one corner complete with stud just crumbled away! Apart from that Lofrans are good bits of kit.

thanks will give that a go , I previously had a lofrans tigres that was to far gone to save , so want this new one to last

 

[Mudisox]

My Cayman was originally sat on an Oak base with plenty of flexible sealant in-between parts. Duralac was also applied liberally. Oak>s/s>Aluminium made a right mess of corrosion after 10years. Not sure about teak however.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

The use of aluminium and stainless in Lofrans winches is a pain in the arse particularly if you inherit the boat from a previous owner or builder that hasn't taken even basic precautions to guard against corrosion.

 

[Restoration man]

If you look at the bolt holes they come supplied with a plastic reducer see photo I’ve got one in on the right , now I’m not sure if this is for protection between the stainless bolts and the aluminium case or it’s because in the instructions they state you need m11 bolts but I don’t know if anyone here has tried to buy such a thing, apparently they do exist but I couldn’t find any , but the reducer fits an m10 lovely , nothing is mentioned in the instructions about this little black reducing coller , maybe it’s for the dissimilar materials maybe it’s to get around using m11 bolt maybe it’s both ??? Your guess is as good as mine

 

[Fr J Hackett]

There are stainless studs and bolts used in various parts of the casings of Lofrans winches that corrode. If you are lucky you can drill out and helicoil treated with Duralac which will extend the life but it's very poor design.
Ask me how I know this

 

[andsarkit]

If you look at the bolt holes they come supplied with a plastic reducer see photo I’ve got one in on the right , now I’m not sure if this is for protection between the stainless bolts and the aluminium case or it’s because in the instructions they state you need m11 bolts but I don’t know if anyone here has tried to buy such a thing, apparently they do exist but I couldn’t find any , but the reducer fits an m10 lovely , nothing is mentioned in the instructions about this little black reducing coller , maybe it’s for the dissimilar materials maybe it’s to get around using m11 bolt maybe it’s both ??? Your guess is as good as mine

IGUS make these sleeve bearings with a flange which are excellent for isolating dissimilar metals. You can probably find cheaper versions on Ebay.

 

[Mudisox]

The sleeve bearings seem to be what is wanted or at least an attempt to solve the issue.
I only wish I knew about them about 2 months ago!

 

[Restoration man]

The sleeve bearings seem to be what is wanted or at least an attempt to solve the issue.
I only wish I knew about them about 2 months ago!

they came with the winch but nothing mentioned in the instructions

 

[Refueler]

Teak or other hardwood base is a very good idea ... as it spreads the load ...

Here's mine on a Teak base :

Picture taken while repainting deck etc. Plus note that base is over 40yrs old ... cleaned up its OK.

It was fitted by one of the previous owners .. if it was me - I would have made base a little larger area