LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Should it stay on the bottom, bounce off the bottom with the pull of the boat or stay suspended in the water?
Anchor Chum / Angel
- Thread starter LadyInBed
- Start date
geoffatstanpit
Well-Known Member
It will do most good if it's just clear of the bottom.
boatmike
Well-Known Member
Ideally it would be just heavy enough to keep it on the bottom in calm conditions but lift when the wind blows 'ard. The weight is important, but so is the distance from the anchor. I don't know any way of calculating this, but have used one several times and set it at about 10 metres from the anchor. Of course in deep water you would need to increase this.
Juggler7823
Well-Known Member
I made my own chum by fixing an eye bolt in a flat tin can and pouring molten lead around it. It weighs around 15kg.I lay the anchor and then drop the chum attached to the chain with a snaplink and using a separate drop line until it just touches bottom. It recently worked in more than 23m in the Hebridees in a F6. This way it ensures that the chain is on the bottom and still acts as a snubber in a swell. I raise the chum first then the anchor.
dolphin
Well-Known Member
anchorbuddy
i have made my own anchorbody from an old battery - take the liquid out, rinse a few times with water and let dry! after, filled with small pebbles & sand and sealed with epoxy!
the buddy is ready with weight about 13 kg ! for easy hadling i used wrapped around the battery wire with O rings for connecting rope about 0.5 m ending with carabines !
how to use, i follow the recommendation for the original
http://www.anchorbuddy.co.nz/allchain.html
easy, free of charge and do the good job!
regards
http://www.neatcss.com/
i have made my own anchorbody from an old battery - take the liquid out, rinse a few times with water and let dry! after, filled with small pebbles & sand and sealed with epoxy!
the buddy is ready with weight about 13 kg ! for easy hadling i used wrapped around the battery wire with O rings for connecting rope about 0.5 m ending with carabines !
how to use, i follow the recommendation for the original
http://www.anchorbuddy.co.nz/allchain.html
easy, free of charge and do the good job!
regards
http://www.neatcss.com/
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
So according to The Anchor Buddy Site "anchor weight should be off the seabed at all stages of the tide. Then it acts as a spring to absorb shock and limit snubbing when the bow lifts to a sea, and dampens all sudden actions on the vessel and ground tackle at anchor. These actions lift the chain and the shank of the anchor and are the main reasons an anchor drags."
Davy_S
Well-Known Member
Slightly different, but same sort of thing, boats moored bow or stern too, where I live lots of local boats use them, not so much as when anchored freely, but when bow or stern too.
If you fasten one to your anchor or mooring block and allow it to lie midwater, weight obviously depends on weight of boat. When you leave the boat the weight pulls the boat away from the quayside, yet allows you to pull it back to get onboard. It allows the boat to ride to the waves more gently, and it will always want to pull it away from the quayside. I cannot really see the point if used simply for anchoring, the catenery of the chain should do the same thing.
If you fasten one to your anchor or mooring block and allow it to lie midwater, weight obviously depends on weight of boat. When you leave the boat the weight pulls the boat away from the quayside, yet allows you to pull it back to get onboard. It allows the boat to ride to the waves more gently, and it will always want to pull it away from the quayside. I cannot really see the point if used simply for anchoring, the catenery of the chain should do the same thing.
wotayottie
Well-Known Member
I don't know what the "official" answer is, but my understanding is that you use a chum to increase the energy absorbing ability of the catenary. Trying to pull the catenary straight is what dampens out the movement of a boat with a chain rode and avoids load coming onto the anchor. If I am right then the place to put it would be nearer half way down the rode so that the movement of the chum between no load and max load would be greatest.
Searush
Well-Known Member
I run mine down the chain to just touch the bottom. Any waves/ wind/ tide that might otherwise pull the chain taut then simply lift the Angel. It has the effect of making your anchor chain behave as if much longer without the extra swinging room required. It also significantly reduces the risk of snatching if your anchor rode is a little tooo short for the conditions (very useful in crowded anchorages & poor weather).
I don't employ it often, but have been VERY glad of having it available from time to time.
I don't employ it often, but have been VERY glad of having it available from time to time.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
That logic seems sound to me.
Searush
Well-Known Member
Not sure I agree; if rode is 3x depth, that puts the Angel at at 1.5 times depth & it will hardly lift off the sea bed at all - virtually useless in fact. If it is just on the sea bed then ANY movement will lift it & it is immediately effective,
Remember that much of your rode will lie on the sea bed most of the time, otherwise your anchor shank will lift & break out the anchor. Wotayottie's theory would only be correct if the anchor was the only bit that touched the ground.
Just an opinion, of course, but I would be interested to read any responses/ comments.
Ludd
Well-Known Member
using a separate drop line until it just touches bottom. It recently worked in more than 23m in the Hebridees in a F6. This way it ensures that the chain is on the bottom and still acts as a snubber in a swell. I raise the chum first then the anchor.[/QUOTE said:
Searush
Well-Known Member
Yup, I've had that one too. Can of spinach required to get that lot up!
craigsmith
Well-Known Member
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
No relation I take it, else you would have said
Read the article with interest, then saw
Which makes me wonder if he is just pushing the use of a heavier Rocna anchor
A bit of reading to do now on all the associated articles he links.
craigsmith
Well-Known Member
It's of no consequence to us if folk use a kellet or not; it doesn't affect the required/recommended anchor size for any given conditions, because they make no impact on ultimate performance.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I didn't read below the line
It's a shame that the article jumps in at the point of high / extreme loads, it would have been interesting to see a graph or two at lower / average anchoring conditions, as I suspect that a 'kellet' might have a more pronounced effect on snubbing and on possible drag if the bottom has poor holding.
I am looking at it from the point of view of an average w/e sailor (overnight anchorer) and accept that in heavy conditions things are as the article describes and I would not normally chose to anchor in those conditions!
craigsmith
Well-Known Member
The first scenario considers moderate conditions or a situation which could possibly trouble an anchor in very poor holding. We needn't bother with anything less, as an adequately sized anchor that's not completely useless will handle it.
In any event, even if that were not the case, a final conclusion is: there is no possible scenario where adding a kellet of X kg is a superior solution to increasing the size of the anchor by X kg. No matter the environment/conditions/anchor, this is a universal.
In any event, even if that were not the case, a final conclusion is: there is no possible scenario where adding a kellet of X kg is a superior solution to increasing the size of the anchor by X kg. No matter the environment/conditions/anchor, this is a universal.
jimbaerselman
Well-Known Member
I agree completely Craig. if you're going to add weight, add it at the anchor.
Shock absorbing, it's far better to use a length of nylon snubber rather than a kellet.
Also I'm amazed to hear mention of a 3:1 scope, at which most anchors are about as efficient as a weight on the ground.
But the words written in old seafarin' manuals of the 50's still carry a lot of weight . . .
Shock absorbing, it's far better to use a length of nylon snubber rather than a kellet.
Also I'm amazed to hear mention of a 3:1 scope, at which most anchors are about as efficient as a weight on the ground.
But the words written in old seafarin' manuals of the 50's still carry a lot of weight . . .
Coaster
Well-Known Member
Uncertainty
I like the idea of an angel to limit sailing around whilst in an anchorage. I'm quite happy to cast lead in an appropriate shape. But I'm unclear about the connection between angel and chain.
Will a U bolt or similar, cast into the angel, not snag on the chain? Is there a particular fitting which allows the angel to run freely up or down the chain? How do those who use angels connect them to the chain?
Help, please.
I like the idea of an angel to limit sailing around whilst in an anchorage. I'm quite happy to cast lead in an appropriate shape. But I'm unclear about the connection between angel and chain.
Will a U bolt or similar, cast into the angel, not snag on the chain? Is there a particular fitting which allows the angel to run freely up or down the chain? How do those who use angels connect them to the chain?
Help, please.
