Bobobolinsky
New member
I contributed this on a previous thread. A shortened extract:"The problem with any ferro-cement hull, particularly an amateur build with no provenance, comes from the difficulty of knowing if the critical mixing, pouring and setting techniques have been correctly observed and that's after an adequate steel frame and ribs have been properly welded up. Most importantly, that the mix is applied evenly, internally vibrated through for the team of expert plasterers to fair the hull with sufficient layer over the steel mesh and framing - and all in one application. Only a sectional destruction test will assure that was complied with and that there were no voids - in that section."If you read the entire posting you will see that a professional build does not guarantee correct construction.
If the boat has been sailing around the sea for 30 or 40 years and is still in good condition, however it was built' is no longer applicable, it's fit for purpose. Usually the bad ones are artificial reefs. I nearly bought a mobo hull last year, the boat yard had hired a guy to break it up, manually and he had not made a dent in it with a sledge hammer and a stihl saw. I offered a £1, but he refused.
The only hull I have seen broken up, a team of proffesional concrete busters came in with a mini digger with a giant stihl saw and a cutting jaw. It still took two days to demolish it. If there is any rust leaking trough the cement, walk away. Lots of the ferro's are wooden topsides and it is more likely that they are rotted than the hull structurally unsound.