Adding windlass controls in the cockpit

[vyv_cox]

Personally I wouldnt waste time and money fitting a wired control in the cockpit. Wireless connections are all below decks so much less risk of corrosion.

Depends entirely on the type of anchoring where you cruise. Maybe half our anchoring in Greece is stern-to a wall, the other half free anchoring. We never use the foot switches in the bow for stern-to and we never use the cockpit switch for free anchoring.

The beauty of the wired switch in the cockpit is that it is immediately adjacent to the Morse control and fixed there. I am not sure that a hand held wireless would be as convenient.

 

[rogerthebodger]

The beauty of the wired switch in the cockpit is that it is immediately adjacent to the Morse control and fixed there. I am

We don't have mediterranean mooring its either free anchoring or a finger mooring so The te buttons at my cockpit helm controls my bow thruster not my windlass.

As said it depends on what you need and how you use it

 

[Roberto]

Could I just create an extra system like this in the cockpit for the up/down buttons?

I'd first make sure 1.that the chain falls easily in the chain locker and does not pile up, 2.That you can actually see what is going on at the bow while activating the switch from the cockpit.
FWIW I routed an additional cable to have the controls in the cockpit too and basically never used it, except a few times while anchoring with the stern to the pontoon. Additional irony was I dismantled half the boat interiors to bring the cable from the bow to the cockpit, then realized I had threaded a 2-wire cable instead of a 3-wire

As to the switch, in case of need just a mom-off-mom switch could do

 

[Stemar]

Jazzcat currently has a dodgy relay, so the windlass will only wind in, so the few times we anchored last year, I laid out the amount of rode I needed on deck beforehand, then lowered it as we got to our chosen spot. The relay will be replaced this winter, but I'm still not convinced I'll do it any other way when it is working properly. just because I can let it out much faster than the windlass, but still in a controlled manner.

 

[Neeves]

Careful! We lower like that as well but there are some on here who will claim we’re all going to die unless one knocks the clutch off and allow the chain to run free.

Its a stupid idea.



The clutch should be 'tuned' so that it slips 'when you want it to slip'. If you, or a crew member, releases the clutch to deploy and then tightens the clutch it may be tightened too much or too little - so the skipper (or the one who knows the windlass needs to check). Its much, much easier if the clutch is tightened 'just so' and the anchor deployed under power.

Jonathan

 

[pandos]

I have the up/down controls on a long lead that I can walk back to the cockpit with. To date, I mainly single hand a 10 metre boat, I have never done so as I prefer to see what the anchor is doing.

I have exactly the same. Gives great flexibility especially if the anchor is really stuck in and you need to be at the helm and at the bow.

Mine seems to be from an industrial source, like those used on tail lifts or workshop hoists, wired using domestic flex.

 

[Graham376]

I always allow the anchor to free drop and then keep snubbing with the clutch as we drop back on tide or wind until enough chain is out for our depth. Clutch then locked, snubber line hooked on and chain cleated off, not left on winch.

Use cheap wireless remote for hauling.

 

[Tradewinds]

Switch on a long lead for me which can be led back to the cockpit. However, most of the anchor work is done at the bow. Rarely do I free drop. My Lighthouse 1501 does a ‘powered drop’ where the gypsy matches the fall of the chain/anchor. In other words it doesn’t try and pull any blocked chain through the deck potentially causing bigger problems.

 

[Plum]

Its a stupid idea.



The clutch should be 'tuned' so that it slips 'when you want it to slip'. If you, or a crew member, releases the clutch to deploy and then tightens the clutch it may be tightened too much or too little - so the skipper (or the one who knows the windlass needs to check). Its much, much easier if the clutch is tightened 'just so' and the anchor deployed under power.

Jonathan

Yes, that is how I set my clutch and deploy under power.

 

[john_morris_uk]

Yes, that is how I set my clutch and deploy under power.

I’ll get the popcorn.

 

[Stemar]

I await the discussions with interest. On my Quick windlass, it seems the only way to do anything with the chain manually is to slacken the clutch, so getting it set so it'll grip until it needs to slip and not before is always going to be unreliable.

 

[Cariadco]

I have found that these cheaper eBay remote controllers have a small but noticeable delay (both on/off) in operation - something which needs a bit of getting used to.

Yeah, and you have to store them is a self sealing bag cos they rot inside. But at the price I think their great.

 

[wonkywinch]

How about programming an Alexa skill? "Alexa, drop 10m of chain"

 

[dunedin]

I await the discussions with interest. On my Quick windlass, it seems the only way to do anything with the chain manually is to slacken the clutch, so getting it set so it'll grip until it needs to slip and not before is always going to be unreliable.

Hence why we don't phaff with the clutch and lower using the winch and the remote. Anchored several hundred times in recent years and that has worked perfectly

 

[wvansl]

Thanks for all the replies!
So then it confirms my thoughts that the pushbuttons just give a 12v signal to the up and down connectors.
I will think if I make it remotely or with a push up/down button in the cockpit.