3D Printers

[markc]

We got back on Friday - yep lots of stuff to make with the 3D printer. My 3D printed solar panel glands were a success. Printed using ASA so we will see how UV safe that is!!!
The new pre-release version of FreeCAD is now getting really good.

Back to my challenge - that new part is for a friend's motor boat - I won't say the brand name yet though.

Is it for a window? Clue please?

 

[DavidJ]

Hmmm
It’s something (probably two) that slides to make something detachable. It’s going to be something quite lightweight but what?
Am I in the right direction?

Wiper blade clip?

 

[Hurricane]

OK - so here's a clue.
I couldn't bring the boat home so I decided to make a test piece in the form of a block.
In the following photo, the test piece is silver and shows the new piece in white.
The new (white) piece can slide within the test (silver) piece.



Here they are again - this time separated.



Does that help?

 

[DavidJ]

Interesting that the slider is not full length, implying that the slider comes to a stop and the part with the ‘cut out’ protrudes, but only by 10mm????

 

[markc]

Does that help?

no

 

[Refueler]

Bambu printers .....

I've noted that over on model and 3D forums - the number of posts about them is increasing ... unfortunately most in the negative vein.

Seems that the most common problem is getting quality prints reproducing designers results. Most designs have not only stl files but also Gcodes included - usually produced via Cura or Prusa slicer. For most printers such as Repetier ... Creality and similar - the Gcodes run as designed without need to modify. But many with Bambu are posting - asking for modifications / ways to solve.


For me - I don't need such ... I just want a larger print work bed .... same as I want a larger Laser bed ...

 

[vas]

OK - so here's a clue.
I couldn't bring the boat home so I decided to make a test piece in the form of a block.
In the following photo, the test piece is silver and shows the new piece in white.
The new (white) piece can slide within the test (silver) piece.

View attachment 185131

Here they are again - this time separated.

View attachment 185132

Does that help?

Princess drawers something like stops or ?

 

[Hurricane]

Princess drawers something like stops or ?

OK - it isn't for a Princess.
Thats not much help so I will narrow it down a little.
It is for a Fairline.

 

[petem]

Here you go Mike....

Waterline - white (not really needed but I found it useful)
Didn't bother with 5m marker, above is close enough..
10m - Red
15m - Yellow
20m - Brown
25m - Blue
30m - Pink
35m - Black
40m - White - Red
45m - White - Yellow
50m - White - Brown
55m - White - Blue
60m - White - Pink
65m - White - Black
70m - Red - Red
75m - Red - Yellow
80m - Red - Brown
85m - Red - Blue
90m - Red - Pink
95m - Red - Black
100m - Yellow - Red
105m - Yellow - Yellow
110m - Yellow - Brown
115m - Yellow - Blue
120m - Yellow - Pink
125m - Yellow - Black
130m - Brown - Red
135m - Brown - Yellow
140m - Brown - Brown
145m - Brown - Blue
150m - Brown - Black All out.....!
By then you should all be colour blind

I really don't get the point of all the colours. On our boat we have the painted markers all in red (every 5m) so my wife just needs to count 4 marks for 20m.

 

[Hurricane]

Bambu printers .....

I've noted that over on model and 3D forums - the number of posts about them is increasing ... unfortunately most in the negative vein.

Seems that the most common problem is getting quality prints reproducing designers results. Most designs have not only stl files but also Gcodes included - usually produced via Cura or Prusa slicer. For most printers such as Repetier ... Creality and similar - the Gcodes run as designed without need to modify. But many with Bambu are posting - asking for modifications / ways to solve.


For me - I don't need such ... I just want a larger print work bed .... same as I want a larger Laser bed ...

As far as I'm concerned my Bambu printer is extremely accurate.
Example - this small part.
Just measured an old part that I used as a template and the result came out exactly the same.
I don't use Cura or Prusa slicers and I don't dabble in G Code.
I just design my models using FreeCAD, export to an STL file and Bambu Studio does the rest.
As said before, I only use the defaults that Bambu have set up.
Very occasionally, I might change settings like infill density (for example - if I want a solid result).
I have played with some of the other settings but, the defaults work for me.
All the temperatures and other parameters for a particular material are set up electronically using RFID tags within the filament spool.
My experience is that "it just works".

 

[Hurricane]

I really don't get the point of all the colours. On our boat we have the painted markers all in red (every 5m) so my wife just needs to count 4 marks for 20m.

I can answer that.
Say you have deployed 20m (counted 4 marks).
The wind blows up a little so you decide to let out 5 or 10m
Later someone anchors close to you and you decide to recover 5m
You are now relying entirely on your memory.
Very quickly, you will loose count.
With different colours or a chain counter, you will know exactly.

 

[Refueler]

As far as I'm concerned my Bambu printer is extremely accurate.
Example - this small part.
Just measured an old part that I used as a template and the result came out exactly the same.
I don't use Cura or Prusa slicers and I don't dabble in G Code.
I just design my models using FreeCAD, export to an STL file and Bambu Studio does the rest.
As said before, I only use the defaults that Bambu have set up.
Very occasionally, I might change settings like infill density (for example - if I want a solid result).
I have played with some of the other settings but, the defaults work for me.
All the temperatures and other parameters for a particular material are set up electronically using RFID tags within the filament spool.
My experience is that "it just works".

That's fine until you start printing models as I do ....

Model like this :

I feel confident would not come out suitable for flight with your Bambu defaults .....

This is what I am commenting on ... 3D printing has many other factors to consider. That Concorde is printed in LW-PLA which foams as it extrudes ... creating a layer of up to 50% lighter than standard PLA .....
The walls (perimeters) and layers are set to be Vase Mode while retaining strength but light weight.

I am not against Bambu ... far from it ... but just wanted to mention that default printing is fine if weight etc is not a consideration ...
Many owners though printing models like above are having issues.

 

[DavidJ]

Bambu printers .....

I've noted that over on model and 3D forums - the number of posts about them is increasing ... unfortunately most in the negative vein.

Seems that the most common problem is getting quality prints reproducing designers results. Most designs have not only stl files but also Gcodes included - usually produced via Cura or Prusa slicer. For most printers such as Repetier ... Creality and similar - the Gcodes run as designed without need to modify. But many with Bambu are posting - asking for modifications / ways to solve.


For me - I don't need such ... I just want a larger print work bed .... same as I want a larger Laser bed ...

Interesting
With my Bambu I’m getting 1% shrinkage which I hadn’t expected given that the filament feeder identifies the label on the drum so it knows exactly what’s going in.
I have to adjust my designs to allow for shrinkage. I want to try ASA filament, that may give more accurate results.

 

[Hurricane]

That's fine until you start printing models as I do ....

Model like this :

I feel confident would not come out suitable for flight with your Bambu defaults .....

This is what I am commenting on ... 3D printing has many other factors to consider. That Concorde is printed in LW-PLA which foams as it extrudes ... creating a layer of up to 50% lighter than standard PLA .....
The walls (perimeters) and layers are set to be Vase Mode while retaining strength but light weight.

I am not against Bambu ... far from it ... but just wanted to mention that default printing is fine if weight etc is not a consideration ...
Many owners though printing models like above are having issues.

OK - I accept that you are working to different tolerances but, for me, I'm happy that it prints everything that I design.

@DavidJ I have to say that I haven't notices any shrinkage but I haven't looked very hard.
I guess a lot of my designs have some experience.
For example, for M3 screws, I always make a clearance hole of 3.2mm and the "screw in" size of 2.85mm dia.
There may be shrinkage there but I chose those dimensions a long time ago after experimenting.
On overall dimensions, I haven't noticed any shrinkage.

 

[Hurricane]

Anyway, back to that latest part - here's another (more final) photo.



Thats got to be a giveaway now.

 

[SealineTony]

That's fine until you start printing models as I do ....

Model like this :

I feel confident would not come out suitable for flight with your Bambu defaults .....

This is what I am commenting on ... 3D printing has many other factors to consider. That Concorde is printed in LW-PLA which foams as it extrudes ... creating a layer of up to 50% lighter than standard PLA .....
The walls (perimeters) and layers are set to be Vase Mode while retaining strength but light weight.

I am not against Bambu ... far from it ... but just wanted to mention that default printing is fine if weight etc is not a consideration ...
Many owners though printing models like above are having issues.

Interesting build, but I am not sure why Bambu defaults would be any different to any other printer defaults. So I guess I may be missing your point in comparisons?

Not sure what you mean by not being suitable for Bambu defaults? Surely it has to be the same with any make of printer and filament defaults?

I too have found Bambu P1S to be quite accurate without any tweaking of variations or gcode. In fact straight out of the box without any calibration attempts much more accurate dimensions from any STL/3MF than my old Creality. Recently printed some Bench dogs that should have had a diameter of 19.98mm, but they came out at 19.85mm! Being just over a 1/10th millimetre smaller not a huge issue and could be resolved by calibration

Most 3D models I have seen so far for any printer have not stated tolerances as it would be nearly impossible due to variance of printer models (even two printers of the same type), filament shrinkage per type of material etc would all play a big part. So therefore print calibration will always be needed to ensure the greatest degree of accuracy which may mean print, measure and print again with scaling factor if required?

The LW PLA looks interesting, how did you calibrate to take into account the foaming on extrusion?

 

[Refueler]

Interesting build, but I am not sure why Bambu defaults would be any different to any other printer defaults. So I guess I may be missing your point in comparisons?

Not sure what you mean by not being suitable for Bambu defaults? Surely it has to be the same with any make of printer and filament defaults?

I too have found Bambu P1S to be quite accurate without any tweaking of variations or gcode. In fact straight out of the box without any calibration attempts much more accurate dimensions from any STL/3MF than my old Creality. Recently printed some Bench dogs that should have had a diameter of 19.98mm, but they came out at 19.85mm! Being just over a 1/10th millimetre smaller not a huge issue and could be resolved by calibration

Most 3D models I have seen so far for any printer have not stated tolerances as it would be nearly impossible due to variance of printer models (even two printers of the same type), filament shrinkage per type of material etc would all play a big part. So therefore print calibration will always be needed to ensure the greatest degree of accuracy which may mean print, measure and print again with scaling factor if required?

The LW PLA looks interesting, how did you calibrate to take into account the foaming on extrusion?

Defaults ?

Common printers do not have defaults as you refer to ... the slicer you use will be the decider and in that you will set the process in the gcode. ie Layer height / perimeters / extruder (feed) rate / speed ... and with LW-PLA - the temperature of extruder will determine the foaming / expansion ...

For most of my printing - I run the designers Gcodes .... as they have done the hard work of getting the code right to produce the desired print. If I find an error - I do carry out beta testing of print for some designers - passing back to them faults / ideas found.

When I create or want a specific form of a print - then I use the STL and create my own parameters via the slicer.

As I see it after reading here and many other posts on other forums - Bambu seems to have tried to 'automate' various factors that I and most users with 'standard' machines would be setting up in the slicer .... but as realised when reading many of the other forums posts - the defaults are unsuited to their tasks and when modifying print parameters - they are finding errors in print. Result - posts asking others how to correct.

As I said - for general printing I can see the point of the Bambu ... but for what I print - its not for me ... as evidenced by those using to produce flight models.

 

[Hurricane]

So that little print is for a Classic Style Fairline Squadron.
In those days, they secured the A/C vent grilles by creating slots in the recess where the grilles are located.
The grilles themselves are made from powder coated alloy with small cutouts.
These cutouts can be located into the slots within the recesses and held in place with the small plastid sliders.
Not tested yet but the new prints are so similar to the original ones that they should work.
I was impressed that we can accurately make such small items using 3D printers.
That FreeCAD design took me about half an hour and the sliders (20 of them) took about 15mins to print.
It took longer to make the test block piece - I made the slot a nice snug fit for the original slider - then made the new slider design to fit the slot.
You have to think like this when working on the boat 1000 miles away.

My next boaty project is to make some replacement plastic buffers for the cockpit gates on my Princess.
I need to replace the black parts in this photo:-



A few years ago, I tried to source some and failed.
I've still got the bits (broken) so I will make some - probably using ABS.