3D Printers

DavidJ

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I haven't (yet) had any problems with my hot end but I did buy a spare when I bought the printer.
Bambu spares are well priced so it is worth keeping some spare bits - cutter blades etc.

I've not noticed and shrinkage in my prints but when I do make my own tolerances when designing close fitting parts so I probably wouldn't notice any shrinkage if there is some.
Yes they gave me a spare nozzle with the P1S so I might just use that until I have further information.
The extruder is beautifully made and although I was a little daunted in the prospect of stripping it down, it was actually a very enjoyable job.
 

DavidJ

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I had this once, it was really easy to clear, just follow the comprehensive maintenance instructions on Bambu's website. 0.4 nozzle - been fine since.
Hi John
Yes all clear now. Was tricky for me as the yellow gear wouldn’t come out because of filament stuck in the metal “feed” gear.
I used the nozzle with filament in (as in the pic) and all was good. After a search I found that people ordering new nozzles were commenting that there was material already in, either from testing or behaps protection from oxidation. That said my spare nozzle is completely clear.
Anyway all good now just having made a case for my new iPhone. 😃
 

slawosz

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Out of curiosity, what size of nozzles do you use? For PLA I use 0.6 and for PET-G (mostly yacht stuff) I use 1.0. Much faster than stock 0.4.
 

vas

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saw on Scuttlebutt this thread on chain markers (Marking your anchor chain )
anyone tried to print any? Bought some Osculatti ones and misplaced them, don't even remember where I bought them from so may as well print some :)
Not sure I'd like to go for snapping pieces on either side, but a M3 through bolt and nut would do fine I think.

V.
 

vas

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me too (teensy though) but do have a few tie wraps which have survived 3 summers and was thinking of improving the visuals
 

vas

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1729958583510.png

evening all,

fwiw, I designed some for a 10mm ISO (may fit on the other DIN but haven't got one to test) Test fitted them they look fine.
In the pics I was using 3X12 self tapers, now ordered 2.2X9 SS ones and have modified the recess accordingly. this way the screwhead is less visible.
Mind I recon unless you're by the windlass you've not got much of a chance of spotting them. I'm usually dropping/retrieving from the f/b but even on a 43ft mobo they wont be visible (imho)
1729958670023.png

if anyone wants the STL files PM with your email so that I can send over the 25kB zip (cannot upload zip files in here)

cheers

V.
 

DavidJ

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View attachment 184756

evening all,

fwiw, I designed some for a 10mm ISO (may fit on the other DIN but haven't got one to test) Test fitted them they look fine.
In the pics I was using 3X12 self tapers, now ordered 2.2X9 SS ones and have modified the recess accordingly. this way the screwhead is less visible.
Mind I recon unless you're by the windlass you've not got much of a chance of spotting them. I'm usually dropping/retrieving from the f/b but even on a 43ft mobo they wont be visible (imho)
View attachment 184757

if anyone wants the STL files PM with your email so that I can send over the 25kB zip (cannot upload zip files in here)

cheers

V.
That’s really good
Just thinking a really low tech chain counter would be a camera so you could watch the inserts go by.
 

vas

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That’s really good
Just thinking a really low tech chain counter would be a camera so you could watch the inserts go by.
tbh, in stern to mooring or generally med mooring, there's no time to check at a screen like that, you can barely check a 4in screen with the meters displayed every now and again.
I'll mainly use it to debug why my custom arduino chain counter (magnet on gypsy, sender fixed on the housing type) miscalculates by 2-3m at 50m chain drops :cool:
usually misses on dropping the chain (not free dropping) not that 3m at 50 is something to worry about, just annoying!
 

Hurricane

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We are on the boat at the moment - this trip is for 6 weeks - home next week - weather here suddenly turned cold and wet.

Back to the point - SWMBO counts plastic markers and I watch the electronic chain counter from the flybrdge.
But the anchor camera is also really useful when recovering the anchor.
We usually anchor in our lagoon that has a muddy bottom so we like to clean that anchor before bringing it all the way on board.
So we position it just below the surface and swing the bow to and fro.
I can watch the progress on the anchor camera.
So we tend to have all angles covered.

That said, I was thinking of designing some more plastic markers for the chain - the ones that I buy in the shops sometimes fall out.
So a winter 3D printer job.
 

DavidJ

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So we position it just below the surface and swing the bow to and fro.
I hadn’t thought of that!
We used to get a lot of weed and bringing the anchor up and down from the bow control at water level never seemed effective.
FreeCAD and Bambu doing well at this end.
Hope you have some weather improvement before you come home.
 

John100156

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I always deployed the anchor from the FB on my P45 and could see the colour markers on the chain as they ran over the roller. Didn't put just two in though, at least 5 or 6 IIRC. Lost a few in 5 years but still fine as of last week!

I like the idea of 3D printing them, I had mine marked at intervals but didn't have all the right snooker ball colours! If you printed them, I suppose you could buy filaments for all.

Using snooker ball colours, starting at:

Waterline - white (not really needed but I found it useful)
Didn't bother with 5m marker, above close enough
10m - Red
15m - Yellow
20m - Brown
25m - Blue
30m - Pink,
35m - Black
40m - White
45m - Red
50m - all out!
 

Hurricane

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I always deployed the anchor from the FB on my P45 and could see the colour markers on the chain as they ran over the roller. Didn't put just two in though, at least 5 or 6 IIRC. Lost a few in 5 years but still fine as of last week!

I like the idea of 3D printing them, I had mine marked at intervals but didn't have all the right snooker ball colours! If you printed them, I suppose you could buy filaments for all.

Using snooker ball colours, starting at:

Waterline - white (not really needed but I found it useful)
Didn't bother with 5m marker, above close enough
10m - Red
15m - Yellow
20m - Brown
25m - Blue
30m - Pink,
35m - Black
40m - White
45m - Red
50m - all out!
What do you do if you have 150m of chain?
 
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vas

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I also consider adding a 2-3coloured ones denoting depth and add a few yellow on either side to make them visible so each length can be something like 3yel+2red+3yel for 10m, then a sh1tload of yellows for the intermediate 5s then 3yel+2brown+3yel for 20m and so on... the intermediate 5s could also be more complex: 3yell+1red+1blrown+3yell for 15m :cool:
I'm sure I'll forget whatever notation I decide!
 

John100156

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Here you go Mike....

Waterline - white (not really needed but I found it useful)
Didn't bother with 5m marker, above is close enough..
10m - Red
15m - Yellow
20m - Brown
25m - Blue
30m - Pink
35m - Black
40m - White - Red
45m - White - Yellow
50m - White - Brown
55m - White - Blue
60m - White - Pink
65m - White - Black
70m - Red - Red
75m - Red - Yellow
80m - Red - Brown
85m - Red - Blue
90m - Red - Pink
95m - Red - Black
100m - Yellow - Red
105m - Yellow - Yellow
110m - Yellow - Brown
115m - Yellow - Blue
120m - Yellow - Pink
125m - Yellow - Black
130m - Brown - Red
135m - Brown - Yellow
140m - Brown - Brown
145m - Brown - Blue
150m - Brown - Black All out.....!
By then you should all be colour blind :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

markc

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Window related?

I've just got back from the boat with a bunch of things to design (in FreeCAD) and make for my next visit. Whilst there I installed my custom Axiom bezel that I made in ABS, and it fitted perfectly :)
 

Hurricane

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Window related?

I've just got back from the boat with a bunch of things to design (in FreeCAD) and make for my next visit. Whilst there I installed my custom Axiom bezel that I made in ABS, and it fitted perfectly :)
We got back on Friday - yep lots of stuff to make with the 3D printer. My 3D printed solar panel glands were a success. Printed using ASA so we will see how UV safe that is!!!
The new pre-release version of FreeCAD is now getting really good.

Back to my challenge - that new part is for a friend's motor boat - I won't say the brand name yet though.
 
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