Round Britain day 16

Concerto

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Cannot believe it is already day 16. Them pesky northerlies have certainly delayed me slightly. Yesterday I had a good look round Amble and enjoyed the lobster hatchery, details will be in the next video. It was too breezy yesterday during the day to fly the drone, but did manage some when the wind eased at about 6pm. For those who have not yet seen, the first video is now loaded on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/7kR_gBC_lvc

The shipping forecast at 6am looked good with S to SW 4 to 6. I left at about 9.30 from Amble and initially started with full main and genoa. Concerto started tramping along at about 6 to 6½ knots on a broad reach. Off Alnmouth the wind dropped and I slowed to 4½ knots. Approaching Boulmer, I passed another singlehanded sailor who was heavily reefed. He had left about ¾ hour before me and he commented as he left he expected me to pass him quickly, and I certainly did. He was headed for Seahouses.

Off Craster the wind filled in nicely again and I got a good view of Dunstanburgh Castle whilst doing over 6 knots again. However as I approached Seahouses the wind increased further and Concerto was becoming a handful so I hand steered and had a peak speed of 8.45 knots, so I dropped a reef in the main. As I made a course change to pass between Seahouses and the Farne Islands, the wind was now coming on the beam. Prudence said I should reef the genoa and I was still making 7+ knots. Not much later I added another reef to both sails. Still doing over 7 knots, but with plenty of white horses and wind lanes despite being only a mile offshore with an offshore wind. Then I headed to the offshore side of the Holy Island, fairly close to Lindisfarne Castle. The wind was still gusting very strongly and occassionally the autopilot decided to go on strike. Grrr. Basically I was over canvased. I tried working closer to the shore and easing it right out, but it made no difference.

Then came the "Oh Sh*t" moment. I was paasing to windward to a pair of linked large fishing floats when the autopilot decided to bear off. Too late to do anything I sailed between them. To my surprise the linking rope was large and heavy with lots of growth and I sailed right over it with disturbing either buoy. Phew, that was very lucky. The wind started moving further forward and was 60 to 70 degrees off the bow. Lots of gusts were now causing Concerto to round up, so the only thing I could do was drop the mainsail. Even under double reefed genoat I still doing 6¼ to 6½ knots. It was certinly a bit more than the Force 6 forecast and was now about westerly as well. So the final 5 miles were made under headsail alone.

Close to the entrance to Eyemouth I started the engine and furled the rest of the genoa away. I had all the fenders and warps ready in the cockpit, but it was too rough to attempt fix them, so I decided it would have to wait until I was inside the harbour. I used the VHF to advise I was entering and the harbourmaster responded that there was no traffic at present. He said I would have to berth alongside a motorboat, not a problem for me or so I thought. The entrance to the harbour is just 33m wide, it sounds a lot when you are only 3.33m, but it is narrow. What I had not expected was how short the run in to the visitor pontoon was. The harbourmaster was waiting to take my lines except nothing was tied on and the wind was gusting down the harbour like a funnel. I quickly fitted the lines, but luckily the motorboat had a row of massive fenders. It was not a modern planing hull but a heavy displacement trawler type boat. The approach was OK but the motorboat had weird cleats. They were stainless steel holes through the gunnel with the cleat on the inside of the opening. Almost impossible to use when not on the boat and the harbourmaster was at the stern as there was no side deck to walk along to the bow. I had to run forward to fix a spring, only to find the fenders had been fitted through the mooring holes. What a pain, I thought I was going to break my fingers due to the strain caused by the wind tunnel effect. I managed to get some lines in place, but I was about 8 ft too far aft for my liking. I used another mooring line to winch Concerto forward and constantly adjusting the lines. Then I had to rig shore lines which are taking most of the loading. This must have taken close to an hour to sort out to my satisfaction.

Now all I had to do was go and pay for the berth. I had planned to leave tomorrow but with high winds forecast for the weekend, so I am leaving on Monday like the other 3 visitor boats who did not arrive today. Chatting with the harbourmaster, he said ther had been getting 40+ knot gusts all afternoon. So the forecast was definitely poor as that means it was a Force 8, not Force 6. If I had known, I doubt I would have left Amble. Even with all the problems, it was a cracking sail that was mainly in sunshine.

RB Map 8.jpg

For those wanting to read from the start of this series of posts, this is the thread. Round Britian day 1
 

ridgy

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You should write a book called "The grim reality of sailing in the UK". I applaud your honesty I reporting the actual misery of these passages which will be familiar to most of us. Of course for the motivated sailor such as yourself it is a great challenge but imagine having a family/ less motivated wife on board. A fine example of why most boats don't leave the marina.
 

Blueboatman

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Oh dear, but a proper account !
And in Scotland ?
Gusting 40kn ain’t coastal cruising is it, if the boat keeps trying to round up and the autopilot is really loaded .
I hope you get some decent , benign breezes soon !
 

Daydream believer

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The last time I left Eyemouth the waves were breaking across the entrance & would meet me at right angles before I turned into them. They were big enough to roll me over & wash me up onto the beach. So the harbour master stood on the end of the pier whilst I dallied in the channel between the exit piers. As he saw a gap in the waves he waved me out & i gunned the throttle which gave me time to get out & turn 90 degrees to be greated by a wave over the bows.. I was so glad he had timed it right as they were about 4-5 feet high & fairly close.
When you leave be aware that there is sometimes a lobster pot right in the middle of the channel & it can be hard to see.
I went to school in Berwick as a youngster & later had a holiday home there so I know Eyemouth very well. I can recall the large fishing fleets & the fish markets with the massive conger eels laid out alongside the boxes of fish.
Sadly all gone now. I watched the building of the last dock extension & if you had known about it you could have gone into that basin out of the wind, put on lines & fenders then gone back into the old harbour alongside the river Eye.
A bus ride to Berwick & a walk around the harbour walls there is well worth your time. You seem to be in a real hurry north & possibly missing bits.
A visit to Gunsgreen house by the harbour is quite interesting as well. The tales of smuggling is intriguing
 

srm

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I don't like the North Sea having had a grim passage from Portsmouth home to Shetland with my first boat.

Around 15 years ago and living in Orkney I decided to go and visit my elderly aunts in Scarborough. The passage south, singlehanded, went well with fair winds and no need to stop. A pleasant few days in Scarborough where I had spent my early childhood. Heading back north a week later was not so pleasant as winds were still in the north. A few days sheltering in Blyth, a planned stop in the Holy Island anchorage aborted due to a falling tide and swell making me cautious about the entrance, and a few days in Peterhead marina, then up to Kirkwall.

I much prefer passages aound the west coast and Irish Sea, as I find it much more interesting. Other than the trip to Scarborough the west coast has always been my choice, though I have left Orkney for Inverness then through the Caledonian Canal to get to the SW and Irish Sea if pushed for time and weather around Cape Wrath and the Hebrides looks a bit unkind.
 

Halo

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Wow! Sailing between two large linked fishing vessels I bet there was some ripe language with WAFI being the least of it !
Take it easy and stay safe!
 

Neeves

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I did not need to check my crystal ball as it is very predictable - the northerlies are forecast to ease at about the time you are between Orkney and Shetland when the northerlies will be replaced with a southerly airstream.

Been there, done that (in Oz).

Very annoying.

Jonathan
 

MADRIGAL

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Cannot believe it is already day 16. Them pesky northerlies have certainly delayed me slightly. Yesterday I had a good look round Amble and enjoyed the lobster hatchery, details will be in the next video. It was too breezy yesterday during the day to fly the drone, but did manage some when the wind eased at about 6pm. For those who have not yet seen, the first video is now loaded on YouTube.
https://youtu.be/7kR_gBC_lvc

The shipping forecast at 6am looked good with S to SW 4 to 6. I left at about 9.30 from Amble and initially started with full main and genoa. Concerto started tramping along at about 6 to 6½ knots on a broad reach. Off Alnmouth the wind dropped and I slowed to 4½ knots. Approaching Boulmer, I passed another singlehanded sailor who was heavily reefed. He had left about ¾ hour before me and he commented as he left he expected me to pass him quickly, and I certainly did. He was headed for Seahouses.

Off Craster the wind filled in nicely again and I got a good view of Dunstanburgh Castle whilst doing over 6 knots again. However as I approached Seahouses the wind increased further and Concerto was becoming a handful so I hand steered and had a peak speed of 8.45 knots, so I dropped a reef in the main. As I made a course change to pass between Seahouses and the Farne Islands, the wind was now coming on the beam. Prudence said I should reef the genoa and I was still making 7+ knots. Not much later I added another reef to both sails. Still doing over 7 knots, but with plenty of white horses and wind lanes despite being only a mile offshore with an offshore wind. Then I headed to the offshore side of the Holy Island, fairly close to Lindisfarne Castle. The wind was still gusting very strongly and occassionally the autopilot decided to go on strike. Grrr. Basically I was over canvased. I tried working closer to the shore and easing it right out, but it made no difference.

Then came the "Oh Sh*t" moment. I was paasing to windward to a pair of linked large fishing floats when the autopilot decided to bear off. Too late to do anything I sailed between them. To my surprise the linking rope was large and heavy with lots of growth and I sailed right over it with disturbing either buoy. Phew, that was very lucky. The wind started moving further forward and was 60 to 70 degrees off the bow. Lots of gusts were now causing Concerto to round up, so the only thing I could do was drop the mainsail. Even under double reefed genoat I still doing 6¼ to 6½ knots. It was certinly a bit more than the Force 6 forecast and was now about westerly as well. So the final 5 miles were made under headsail alone.

Close to the entrance to Eyemouth I started the engine and furled the rest of the genoa away. I had all the fenders and warps ready in the cockpit, but it was too rough to attempt fix them, so I decided it would have to wait until I was inside the harbour. I used the VHF to advise I was entering and the harbourmaster responded that there was no traffic at present. He said I would have to berth alongside a motorboat, not a problem for me or so I thought. The entrance to the harbour is just 33m wide, it sounds a lot when you are only 3.33m, but it is narrow. What I had not expected was how short the run in to the visitor pontoon was. The harbourmaster was waiting to take my lines except nothing was tied on and the wind was gusting down the harbour like a funnel. I quickly fitted the lines, but luckily the motorboat had a row of massive fenders. It was not a modern planing hull but a heavy displacement trawler type boat. The approach was OK but the motorboat had weird cleats. They were stainless steel holes through the gunnel with the cleat on the inside of the opening. Almost impossible to use when not on the boat and the harbourmaster was at the stern as there was no side deck to walk along to the bow. I had to run forward to fix a spring, only to find the fenders had been fitted through the mooring holes. What a pain, I thought I was going to break my fingers due to the strain caused by the wind tunnel effect. I managed to get some lines in place, but I was about 8 ft too far aft for my liking. I used another mooring line to winch Concerto forward and constantly adjusting the lines. Then I had to rig shore lines which are taking most of the loading. This must have taken close to an hour to sort out to my satisfaction.

Now all I had to do was go and pay for the berth. I had planned to leave tomorrow but with high winds forecast for the weekend, so I am leaving on Monday like the other 3 visitor boats who did not arrive today. Chatting with the harbourmaster, he said ther had been getting 40+ knot gusts all afternoon. So the forecast was definitely poor as that means it was a Force 8, not Force 6. If I had known, I doubt I would have left Amble. Even with all the problems, it was a cracking sail that was mainly in sunshine.

View attachment 136699

For those wanting to read from the start of this series of posts, this is the thread. Round Britian day 1
A cracking sail indeed, and a great account of it. Thank you for letting us enjoy reading about Concerto's voyage.
 

Concerto

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There will be another report tomorrow as I am intending to go the 66 miles to Stonehaven. The wind looks very favourable and should allow me to set the spinnaker. If I get up early enough to leave at 6 and I am making sufficient boat speed, I might even go straight to Peterhead as it is only another 33 miles.
 

europe172

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There will be another report tomorrow as I am intending to go the 66 miles to Stonehaven. The wind looks very favourable and should allow me to set the spinnaker. If I get up early enough to leave at 6 and I am making sufficient boat speed, I might even go straight to Peterhead as it is only another 33 miles.
Hi Concerto
Liking the reports, as a matter of interest what autohelm are you using?
 

Concerto

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Hi Concerto
Liking the reports, as a matter of interest what autohelm are you using?
Raymarine Evolution 100 Tiller. The tiller pilots are really not man enough for a Fulmar. The specs say upto 4 or 4½ tons, but my boat weighs just over 5½ laden. Also I quite enjoy rough weather, although the other day was getting a bit excessive, and therefore I need the extra power the ram has. The EV 100 only has the ram and instrument head externally, so far less likely to sustain water or impact damage.

If you are looking to fit one, then do some resaerch about prices in the EU without VAT. I bought mine in Sweden 7 years ago. The list price was £1500 and the best UK price was £1250. A few weeks later there was a Southampton Boat Show special offer of £1100. But I only paid £920 including 3 day shipping. The warranty makes no difference to where it was bought from, who fitted it or where in the world you need it repaired. The other strange thing was it did not come from Sweden, but direct from the Raymarine distribution centre in Belgium.
 

Concerto

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Raymarine Evolution 100 Tiller. The tiller pilots are really not man enough for a Fulmar. The tiller pilot specs say upto 4 or 4½ tons, but my boat weighs just over 5½ laden. Also I quite enjoy rough weather, although the other day was getting a bit excessive, and therefore I need the extra power the ram has. The EV 100 only has the ram and instrument head externally, so far less likely to sustain water or impact damage.

If you are looking to fit one, then do some resaerch about prices in the EU without VAT. I bought mine in Sweden 7 years ago. The list price was £1500 and the best UK price was £1250. A few weeks later there was a Southampton Boat Show special offer of £1100. But I only paid £920 including 3 day shipping. The warranty makes no difference to where it was bought from, who fitted it or where in the world you need it repaired. The other strange thing was it did not come from Sweden, but direct from the Raymarine distribution centre in Belgium.
 
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