Advice and help with clinker

[Benjg28]

Hi I'm new to the yacht world and after doing a Google search found myself reading about clinker boats and how wooden boats should be looked after.

I guess here is my situation, I have always lived the idea of having a boat and then I saw this gorgeous, beautiful boat and I had to get it!

The engine is seized up however my worry was but I think it's meat to do this, when the tide comes in the boat starts to take on water nd the bilge pump kicks in.

Is it right that clinker (mahogony) take water on for a while then swell up and seal any gaps?

The reason I'm asking is because in may I have to move her onto a floating pontoon mooring and off th current wall one she's on,
Reading from this forum has filled my heart back up with determination and any help would be much appreciated!

 

[johnlilley]

Clinker leakage: it is normal for a clinker planked vessel to take up initially after a while out of the water, more so than carvel build. However it seems that this one is only dry for a few hours between tides and as such should not really dry out over the course of 6 or 7 hours. It would take at least a week in really dry conditions before this occurred. There is no caulking between the planks so the slightest gap will leak. What you do not say is whether she remains dry once afloat. There are a few possibilities, 1 the plank fastenings have stretched or pulled into the timber and the planks are not as tight together as required, this means tightening all the fastenings. 2 you have an individual leak not related to planking ( bilge runner or bilge keel bolts. 3 when she dries out she is loading the structure unfairly if she is tipped over or otherwise awkwardly resting on her bilges & when she floats she regains shape & closes all gaps. Have you been able to identify where she is leaking from as that is the starting point. What type of vessel is she, small craft would have very thin planks ( 10mm 18mm) larger vessels (20mm - 25mm) which does make a difference on how to repair any leaks. Thinner planks are inclined to split along the line of fastenings causing problems. Possibly require more info first. Plenty of written info on clinker build, Some Michael Verney books helpful

 

[Benjg28]

Ahhh!
She is resting and moored to another boat and leans,
It was built as a prototype for the Viking 30 so I guess that would be the closest however it's the only One that has clinker design let me upload a few pictures perhaps that may help and thank o

 

[DownWest]

It appears that your boat was built in '59/60. Good designer, Buchanan. Did you get a surveyor (like John Tilley) to look at her before you bought?
DW

 

[johnlilley]

On that class the design also probably includes steel or wrought iron floors and a well known problem can occur where the floor fastenings cause electrolytic damage to timber surrounding the fastenings causing leakage. This is usually much worse when sailing. The planking will almost certainly be in excess of 3/4 inch so should have good rigidity . Broken frames will also cause possible problems around the engine area. All you can do is look for evidence of water ingress, it should be evident. There are so many variables from a simple seacock leak to major centreline structure problems. Is there an anode fitted and wired, these can also cause major damage leading to leaks. Firstly identify where the water is coming from fwds or aft and then isolate areas to see which way the water runs from. A long job but no choice really if you cannot obviously locate the leak on primary inspection

 

[debenriver]

Once a clinker hull has taken up, it doesn't dry out enough between tides to cause leakage – so, no, that is not normal.

As above - dry the bilge out as best you can and then get the boat afloat; and then track down where the leak(s) is/are coming from.

She looks a really nice hull and in good condition – from the photos at least.

George

 

[Benjg28]

Once a clinker hull has taken up, it doesn't dry out enough between tides to cause leakage – so, no, that is not normal.

As above - dry the bilge out as best you can and then get the boat afloat; and then track down where the leak(s) is/are coming from.

She looks a really nice hull and in good condition – from the photos at least.

George

Hi Thanks!
I'm actually on her bow for the night to do some work inside (even though weds some tlc) feels so nice. In worse case scenario what would it cost to put right? I would hate to learn she was cut up I really would but I'm not got lots of money but I am quite good with diy

 

[debenriver]

Hi Thanks!
I'm actually on her bow for the night to do some work inside (even though weds some tlc) feels so nice. In worse case scenario what would it cost to put right? I would hate to learn she was cut up I really would but I'm not got lots of money but I am quite good with diy

No way to know the cost til you know what the problem is.

Could be complex and expensive - equally well could be simple and not expensive.

You won't know until you can establish why the boat is leaking and how much. If you can dry the inside out while the tide is out and then observe what happens – and where the water comes from - as the tide come in, then you will at least have made a start.

Cheers -- George