Your Bilge (Rusty Volvo Part3)....

[Scubadoo]

A continuation to my current problem with my Rusty Oil sump, apparantly my Bilge area has a separate tray under the engine to catch oil leaks etc. There is no automatic way to clear this tray other than by hand (Sponge). My Volvo dealer suggested I remove this tray as I don't do much river work where it is compulsory.

What do you have in you bilge, are all new boats built with trays under engine(s)? And if so how do you keep it clean/clear of any water?

Any advice as usual greatly appreicated.

By the way, now that they have removed my engine they have found a coolant leak from the turbo which they have replaced the gasket under warranty, do you think this could cause (or partly) my oil sump corrosion.

RM.

 

[Guest]

Blimey richard, your boat must be spick and span indeed if a rusty sump is the main, dreaded and ongoing problem. I've seen loads of engines with rust onnem. But these are thick items, take yonks of eons to rust thru, and even the cars whose thin wings did rust through exposed both sides.

So firstly stop worrying imho.

Second wire brush and splosh paint in situe.

Third, if engine out commission volvo bloke to quote for clean and paint it while boat is out (fifty quid mebbe?) or askim to remove, keep engine, and you rub away with wire brush or powerered brushy thing.

Final solution is to chrome plate things. This is fabulous and (relatively) cheap, cos you takem to somewhere miles inland and no marine markup. Unfortunately, and esp seeing as you are fastidious (in nicest poss way of course) owner you may end up wanting to chrome plate loads of things. Not as daft as it may seem, as obv protective layer, plus the advantage of showing up any tiny leaks, much more visible on chrome than on paint. Also, at resale, most enginerooms are well ahem have you seen the galley instead all nice and tidy? Whereas if chrome things down there it looks like a blimmin Harley. Even if the rest of it a bit rustified, like ahem mine was.

 

[jfm]

No drip trays

Re your specific question, sea boats do not have drip trays under sump, any drips go straight into bilge. So yes, remove it.

Agree with Matt this is not a prob. Sump will be pretty thick mild steel pressing, so no chance of rust through. But now that the engine is out you have a once only opprtunity to fix this, so remove the sump and get it painted properly or chromed or electro-galvanised (not dipped) then painted. This is pretty cheap.

 

[c_j]

Yes, the anti freeze solution will have advanced the corrosion. sorry.



CJ
chris@stone.uk.com

 

[Scubadoo]

Re: No drip trays

I think you and Matt both misunderstand how serious this is. The corroded sump is not touch rust, large chunks of rusted metal are sitting in the bilge tray - I can deal with just touch rust myself. The sump would have rusted through within the next 12-24months! then I would have a seized engine to deal with.

Anyway thanks for your advice.

RM.

 

[Scubadoo]

The whole is being treated and painted where needed. Don't want this problem again!

However this is a steep learning curve for me, one thing that I will always check on my future boats.

RM.

 

[Scubadoo]

Re: No drip trays

Okay no drip tray, so where do you stand if you decide to spend a month on the river?

RM.

 

[jfm]

Re: Rust/metal thickness

The thickness of rust is much greater than the thickness of the metal that it once was. Even if sitting in saltwater for about 3 years solid, the 2mm plate would not rust through. But agree I agree you're doing the right thing, I mean this is a great time to fix it, while the engine is out, becuase likely will not get another opportunity.

 

[jfm]

Re: Not sure about rivers

I have no idea about river rules. If your engine doesn't leak oil then nothing bad will happen in a month (except a massive fine I suppose??) Others here know the river rules in detail

 

[Guest]

Re: how much rust?

Ooh how big are these lumps? reasonable flakes is ok but "lumps" pls give dimensions

Sounds mebbe a new component (and sump is only machined on one face so shdn't be too steep) then handto chroming man. I have contact if you need one.

 

[Guest]

do ask about chroming, tho? hard chrome is chrome plate straight on the thing, cheaper for non-visible areas. Soft chrome for smooth areas, is mostly nickel then final bit in axshul chrome. Much better than paint IMHO. er well, actually, its much better than paint, opinion or not.

 

[byron]

Re: No drip trays

They don't check for temp. licences and you don't need the dreaded BSS certificate

ô¿ô
www.education-jobs.co.uk
www.alexander-advertising.co.uk

 

[Scubadoo]

Thanks for the advice however I don't think I need to chrome plate the thing.

Just been down to Southampton to have a look, they are rubbing back all the rusty areas and treating it before a top coat of paint.

RM.

 

[Scubadoo]

Re: how much rust?

Lumps are about a 1cm sq. and the engineer this afternoon commented on the worst sump he had seen. He reckon only a couple more months before putting your finger through.

A new sump will be fitted and will cost me around £250, the labour well some of it should be under warranty as they fixed the turbo gasket which is covered (Turbo fix needed the engine out to do it).

It's not my day, my TrimTab control box has failed and just lashed out another £160 with Sealine for a new one.

What amazes me is you and JFM seem to accept rust even if lumps fall off. Now it may be okay if you tend to replace you boat every year or two, but I only have one engine and can not afford a failure at sea, especially when we are diving.

RM.

 

[Scubadoo]

Re: Rust/metal thickness

I understand your point but I rather be safe than sorry. I took a picture of it, I'll get it scanned in for you to see.

RM.

 

[Guest]

Re: blimey

Um well I didn't know it was chunks in quite that volume. Spose advice hereabouts sometimes with a pinch of salt - oops no, no salt at all! Is it a casting, or a pressed steel component? Must be one hell of a casting if 1cc lumps can drop off it and still remain a casting, even big girders don't have this. Hope you have resolved cause - must be seawater getting around so check sternglands a lot? Still strongly rec'd chrome - indeed even more so. Oh and we (well I) don't replace boat a lot, but talk abt it, much cheaper.

 

[jfm]

Re: furhter theory, prob wrong...

RM, point taken if lumps are that big. I wonder if some electrolytic corrosion going on, which is accelerating the rust rate to massive levels? I mean yours seems to be getting eaten away much faster than would be caused by a bit of water splashing around. Electrolysis not my area, should have paid more attn in Chemistry, others on BB understand it well, but I wonder if it could be happening? Could be electrics problem, or some metal component in the wet area that makes your sump a cathode or anode (can't remeber which)? Just a thort......

 

[Scubadoo]

Re: blimey

Sorry I didn't mean to put 1cm sq - yes 1cm in length but about 2-3mm thickness. No wonder you and JFM were little shocked.

RM.