ari
Well-Known Member
Anyway, do I need to brim my tanks or not this winter? Still in use currently. 
Winterizing with summer didsel in tank
- Thread starter aerobat
- Start date
Refueler
Well-Known Member
fair enough ...
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Anyway, do I need to brim my tanks or not this winter? Still in use currently.
Simply put ... no.
aerobat
Well-Known Member
Great informations so far !
I think we cam say :
- no problem with summer diesel during winter storage
-UK has summer and winter diesel
When it comes diedel bug : i have put this
LIQUI MOLY Anti-bacterial diesel additive, 1 litre, diesel additive, item no. 21317 : Amazon.de: Automotive
In the tank , hopefully it works .
I think we cam say :
- no problem with summer diesel during winter storage
-UK has summer and winter diesel
When it comes diedel bug : i have put this
LIQUI MOLY Anti-bacterial diesel additive, 1 litre, diesel additive, item no. 21317 : Amazon.de: Automotive
In the tank , hopefully it works .
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Don't forget that you can mix Summer and Winter diesel with no problem at all ....
The effect on CFPP / Cloud Pt is mathematical ratio. Except when you hit about -21C ... when normal additives start to not work ... as they approach saturation levels.
If you have 50lt of Summer diesel at -5C and you add 50lt of Winter diesel at -16C .... the result will be ~ -10C .... allowing that maybe bottom of tank may not mix as well as the top .... but a few sloshes of tank and all will be mixed.
The effect on CFPP / Cloud Pt is mathematical ratio. Except when you hit about -21C ... when normal additives start to not work ... as they approach saturation levels.
If you have 50lt of Summer diesel at -5C and you add 50lt of Winter diesel at -16C .... the result will be ~ -10C .... allowing that maybe bottom of tank may not mix as well as the top .... but a few sloshes of tank and all will be mixed.
Plum
Well-Known Member
No, there is no single benefit of eitherAnyway, do I need to brim my tanks or not this winter? Still in use currently.
ontheplane
Well-Known Member
Also - can you run with the Diesel bug in - so for example, you've treated the tank, get a nice weekend so use the boat and then top up the tanks again and just add a little more anti-bug in?
jointventureII
Well-Known Member
You think you've got problems....I opened my (56 year old) tank to find this!!
I've had to cut an access hatch and next week, will need to get on with sorting this total mess out.
I assume it's just going to be a ton of elbow grease but does anyone know of any magic products (apart from disc brake cleaner) that might "assist"??
I've had to cut an access hatch and next week, will need to get on with sorting this total mess out.
I assume it's just going to be a ton of elbow grease but does anyone know of any magic products (apart from disc brake cleaner) that might "assist"??
Momac
Well-Known Member
I don't think you will need a ton but maybe a couple of litres
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jon and michie
Well-Known Member
get some spill pads - Screwfix sells them or a bag of rags
Refueler
Well-Known Member
It depends on which additive you used .... if its just a Killer Additive - then you will have the 'gunge' in bottom of tank that is the matter that blocks filters ... LIVE bug itself does not .... something that most people are not aware of. Blocakge of filters is from the crap from Live Bug and the dead Bug collecting and getting picked up by fuel line ..
I keep advising people to use Enzyme based additive for this specific reason ... not only does it kill the Bug - but it breaks it down to pass through and get burnt in the engine.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
If you are going to have good access ... then most professionals use a combo of Steam Cleaning and solvents....
Just be careful when using Steam Cleaning - as you can blow the crap all over the place !!
Momac
Well-Known Member
Spill pads are good suggestion
I find these puppy training pads very useful for catching sometimes unavoidable spills when changing engine oil, fuel filters or coolant ......... but cant say I have had to clean out a fuel tank.
dunedin
Well-Known Member
Can you convert that to brand names typically sold in the UK?
Eg what type is Marine 16 for example?
Refueler
Well-Known Member
I avoid naming as I am in the Fuel Business and some may take it as a Brand referral ...
M16 as far as I am aware is not Enzyme based .. it is not a product I use. But that does mean any bias or intention against. It is not available where I am. Fuelset is another - not available here, so I do not comment on that either.
I use - ONLY because I can buy it easily - Startron and a couple others that I buy depending on whats available at the time ... One being Volvo's own additive designed for Volvo Trucks .... but for some reason - its expensive stuff !! No idea why !
The Volvo stuff is for cleaning up systems - rather than dosing tanks. Its designed that you fill the fuel filter with it and start engine ! It cleans the filter, breaks down any dead bug that made its way to the injection pump amd system etc. Its not my favourite product !
I do not buy because of brand ... I buy after checking if its Enzyme based or not. Before sanctions hit Russian products - I used to buy Russian produced .. in larger volumes for business and personal use .. but that is now no longer available.
With respect to the tank shown earlier - that really is past the point of any additive remedy .. it needs physical cleaning ... which is why I adviised solvents ... Ethanol .. or even cheapest gasoline you can get .. stir it up ... decent positive self priming pump that can pull out the mix ...
Once that's done - then Steam Cleaner to kill off ... lift any hard to clean ... pump out and dry.
First fuel in - seriously doped with Enzyme based additive ... to sort any living that may have survived and to also solve any that may be in the new fuel.
A regime then of regular top up additive ... because the tank is now 'clean' - M16 ... Fuelset ... any additive you like ... with maybe an occasional Enzyme dose to solve any dead drop out that may occur.
There is another factor that often gets overlooked ... most Enzyme based additives also disperse / break down the moisture content of the fuel - further helping to solve the problem ... it being burnt in the engine as well.
snowbird30ds
Well-Known Member
@Refueler what is it?
Drained from the bottom of filter bowl tanks new 2017 and always m16'd, every few years a dose of startron, fuel hoses all iso7840 filter seals swapped to viton.
It's a bit like treacle.
Drained from the bottom of filter bowl tanks new 2017 and always m16'd, every few years a dose of startron, fuel hoses all iso7840 filter seals swapped to viton.
It's a bit like treacle.
Refueler
Well-Known Member
Without it actually directly in front of me - it could any one of a number of items ... but I would hazard a guess - it may be Ashphaltenes ..
That cannot be removed by M16 .. Startron .. Fuelset etc ... needs a solvent ...
It could be Gums based on Oxy Stab - but usually that is small globular drops .. not as you show.
That cannot be removed by M16 .. Startron .. Fuelset etc ... needs a solvent ...
It could be Gums based on Oxy Stab - but usually that is small globular drops .. not as you show.
Alicatt
Well-Known Member
Not so good on petroleum products, we tried that to catch an oil leak from the turbo on the port engine, so we went back to using these,
Laser Tools 5713 Oil Absorption Pads - Pack of 20
works great
jon and michie
Well-Known Member
They are like the ones I recommended which both are designed for oil and petroleum product
Alicatt
Well-Known Member
Those ones I linked to are hydrophobic they will float on any water in the bilge and absorb any oil that is floating on the water. I put one in where the aft bilge pump is while I had a leaking stuffing box on the propshaft, it stopped the trace of oil that was being pumped out by the bilge pump. Stuffing box is now tightened up and is back to the recommended one drip per minute, most awkward access to get to the gland nuts on the port shaft, took a while before I managed to get them adjusted properly.
It's down behind and below the main fuel tank through this access hatch
