Winterising volvo penta vp2002

[hurley]

New to me volvo vp2002 which I need to winterise. Manual says remove thermostat, drain block "attach a longer hose, reaching down to the bottom of the bucket"
On the non s drive connect hose to the suction side (of the sea water pump) of the reverse and reduction gear.

Obviously no pictures to make it easier. Can anyone help?

Happy to do it any other way if it's simpler but not at all familiar with the engine. Anyone out there have one of these and able to point me in the right direction?

My usual you tube goto hasn't turned up any results.

Many thanks in advance

 

[KREW2]

There are two drain plugs, the the one you want is on the left hand side as you look at the engine tucked low down under the starter motor. It is in two parts. One bit goes directly into the block the other is a hose tail. If it has been done regularly you can slacken off the hose tail and the water will run out.
The chances are it will be blocked with gunge and need poking out with whatever you can get in there. remove the whole fitting and clean it out. I started off with a drill bit twisting it by hand, then used a long thin screw driver, it went in about 4/5 inches before water started coming out. You can be quite bold with your prodding.
If nothing comes out the chances are that the slots in your tube which runs along the block under the thermostat are blocked and need cleaning.
I have never done this but I'm sure someone will be along to guide you.

 

[Pete7]

Having drained down the block, worth checking the anode. On the raw water cooled variety its a square drive behind the alternator. Some smaller 2xxx series and I think the fresh water cooled have it mounted in the front face of the engine. If you have only just acquired the yacht it would be worth checking. When you take the thermostat out, drop it in a pan of nearly boiling water to check that it opens. They don't last forever being surrounded in hot salt water, so replace if necessary.

Same with the alternator belt. They are much thinner perhaps 3/8th rather than 1/2" of the later Volvo engines. The good news is the water pump runs off the cam shaft so even if the alternator belt snaps in use, the engine continues to run quite happily, just doesn't charge the batteries.

Worth looking at the impeller and any spares on board to see if they have aged. The final check is the flute tube which runs through the cylinder head. Its a faff to get it out so I chose to inspect in situ. A 1m length of threaded rod can be used to help clean it out if necessary. It has a series of holes along its length to help distribute the water flow. Its these holes that block.

If you are feeling really brave you can also do a flush of the block. Rydlyme is one product but I used Barnacle Buster, which did an impressive job. I just mixed it up and poured it down the thermostat hole and left it for an hour. Lots of dark green / black bubbles fizzing away. Ran the engine afterwards and clouds of white liquid with particles in it came out of the exhaust for 15 minutes. I don't plan to do this every year but once in a while.

Don't forget to change the oil in the gearbox as well as the engine. Gearboxes are expensive on the second hand market so worth looking after.

Pete

 

[hurley]

Great advice thanks for these top tips