Sea Change
Well-known member
Doesn't it seem likely that there is some kind of short? Surely the up and down supplies should be separate? At the moment they both fall to zero when the relay is triggered, regardless of which side you trigger.
So... if I whack the motor casing lightly with a hammer, I can get it to run, directly off the jump leads.
I can't get the brushes out to clean them, so I might dig out the other windlass and swap the motors over.
That would be great if I could then to move at all. They're absolutely solid. Can't get one out, let alone all of them.Sounds like stuck motor brushes. I had the exact same problem. A simple fix: find the brush access screws, could be four, the brushes will pull out. Gently sand the sides until you can slide them in and out easily. If the brushes are kaput you can get a replacement set or there are places that will make a set to your measurements for less.
I've narrowed the fault down to the motor on the 'in use' windlass so there's no need to go troubleshooting.I don't understand why swapping the windlass, the part with the gypsy, makes any difference the electrics are all separate, you have a motor and a solenoid, or 2 of each (and the 'windlass with gypsy', again 2 off). Swap the motor and separately swap the solenoids - check any circuit breakers
If you have another windlass all connected together wire it up to THE battery or a battery, so using different cables - and try it. Make sure it does run. Swap each of the electrical components, motor, solenoid from windlass 1 to windlass 2. Remove circuit breaker (if you have a spare swap it with the one in use).
You should be able to test the 2 motors independent of the solenoid and independent of the circuit breaker as long as you have some spare cable with the ends swaged on.
The only downside I can think of is if both windlass have the same electrical fault - solenoids are (in my experience) unreliable.
Jonathan
I don't know where you are - but a decent vice, a solid work bench and a bench drill would be handy (at a pinch a B&D Workmate might suffice). The other essential is patience.I've narrowed the fault down to the motor on the 'in use' windlass so there's no need to go troubleshooting.
Now it's a question of trying to cobble together one working windlass from the two I have, navigating various seized bolts etc.
Would not a weak acid reduce the aluminium corrosion hopefully allowing space for bolts to be undone - I used use acetic acid ( vinegar) but citric acid in jam making is a little stronger - no need to use HCL or sulduric which would probably destroy any aluminium left - what do you think?I don't know where you are - but a decent vice, a solid work bench and a bench drill would be handy (at a pinch a B&D Workmate might suffice). The other essential is patience.
Seized windlass studs and bolts is a repetitive topic for forum threads (there was a thread a few days ago on corroded bolts in aluminium). The usual issue is stainless bolts in an aluminium casting and the product of corrosion is aluminium oxide - which is effectively inert. The only hope is use heat, soldering iron or blow torch on the bolt or stud, and hope that differential expansion will 'break' the connection/corrossion. You can also try WD40 but it will only be effective if you 'break' the aluminium oxide that is 'sealing' the thread. So lots of heat, lots of patience and when its cooled down try WD40, or any oil. What usually happens, frustration takes over and the bolts shear. You might then be able to drill the bolt out - but it really needs to be on a bench with a decent bench drill.
I think I recall you saying you had problem removing the gypsy - it should simply lift out - a gear puller might be the answer (and, again, WD40 or any oil soaked into the interface of shaft and gypsy. If you can remove the shaft with the gypsy 'locked' in you can tap, tap, tap the gypsy with a rubber/wooden mallet - it sometimes works. Again a decent bench (oil the shaft/gypsy interface, soak, and lots of patience).
Having 2 windlass - you might get lucky and be able to build one working from the 2 units. If you need to drill out the bolts (or studs) you will need to make new threads you need a tap set) and you will need new matching bolts.
Usually when I'm involved with windlass I carry an angle grinder (and Duralac) - its the last resort - cut the old windlass out and replace with a new one. So chop up the corroded windlass so that it can be removed minimising damage to the fibre glass (to which the windlass is attached), you then can instal the new, or working, windlass in the same location as the old. Before you instal the new, or replacement windlass - take it apart and coat all the bolts with Duralac.
Jonathan
You would need hot concentrated acid, hydrofluoric, sulphuric, or hydro chloric acids to impact aluminium oxide and I would not recommend anyone touch any of these outside a fume cabinet and wearing full protective clothing, goggles and heavy duty gloves. So you are right but NOT recommended, not even contemplated.Would not a weak acid reduce the aluminium corrosion hopefully allowing space for bolts to be undone - I used use acetic acid ( vinegar) but citric acid in jam making is a little stronger - no need to use HCL or sulduric which would probably destroy any aluminium left - what do you think?