Windlass only works if engine running

Roberto

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, the anchor can operate even if you are not on the boat,
It once happened to me, I have a cut-off switch for the windlass I usually keep off except when using the windlass, those days we were frequently changing anchorages I let the breaker on.
I suddenly heard the grinding noise of the windlass rising the chain and ran to cut the breaker. On inspection, the bow command switch watertightness was long gone; I had to make another one with the locally available means :)
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Irish Rover

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I'm going to go with Neeves. On a cat, one engine is fine when you've got some way on, but from a standstill, you're going in a circle until you've got moving. Not a good idea in a crowded anchorage.
I would never operate on one engine in a crowded anchorage, or in a marina or port because of the added manoeuvrability and stopping power you get from using two, especially the ability to swivel on the spot with one forward and one in reverse. However I don't agree at all that you're going in a circle from standstill. I've often left from an empty anchorage on one engine - you have twin rudders so you're not entirely dependent on the engine for steering. I also used to fish a lot on one engine at tickover speed with no steering issues. Anyway, different subject.
 

Neeves

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We always operated the windlass from the bow, deployment or retrieval. You can see what is happening.

We also always secured the rode, independent of the windlass, by some means (usually a short strop attached to a strong point and the rode), when at anchor or at sea.

The ideal was to retrieve the anchor from dead ahead (or is it dead astern?), not to one side, as this reduces the load on the windlass, does not wear the bow roller cheeks nor strip of the galvanising.

Having therefore need to attach a securement of the anchor, at sea, or at anchor, meant one of us had to attach the strop (so we had to be at the bow) . Having to be at the bow also meant being able to instruct the person at the helm the direction of the rode - and thus anchor.

So...we had a micro switch at the helm - but it was not used - because the person dictating anchor deployment or retreival had to be at the bow anyway. Oddly this is not much different to a ship when the idea is to retrieve the anchor you really need the rode to be in the 'right' location, directly under the hawse pipe, not off the bow and over the protruding bulbous bow.

For us anchoring and retrieval was a leisurely affair and we would swap locations. I would do the heavier lifting, pulling the anchor over the bow roller and attaching the 'at sea' strop, disengaging the 'at sea' strop (ready for deployment) and attaching and detaching the bridle, Josephine would largely deploy and retrieve - I'd manoeuvre (except for leaving the anchorage which Josephine would manage whilst I tidy up the bow).

But it would be common for one of us to be on the bow, rain or shine, dark or light.'

This is our 'chain lock', 'at sea' or 'rode' strop. Its dyneema, attached to a strong point and the rode (with a claw). It secures the anchor (independent of the windlass at sea or at anchor).

IMG_5369.jpeg


Our rode was marked with paint, every 10m and 5m before the anchor reached the bow roller and 5m from the bitter end.
IMG_0472 2.jpeg


Our snubber or bridle attachment was a simple plate.
IMG_0020.jpeg

Jonathan
 

PaulRainbow

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Its a compliment, you are good.

Maybe I should elaborate

It does not matter how good your installation might be - things go wrong, it is a yacht - its in an aggressive environment. You need a fall back - which might be the old fashioned way (and relying on the electronics might mean you don't know the old fashioned way).

Jonathan
So i shouldn't use the switch in case it breaks and i've forgotten how to kick the clutch open ?

FYI, i never use the clutch. With 2 engines running, driving 60a 24v alternator, electricity isn't in short supply.

Retrieval is done from the bow, so i haven't forgotten y way there.
 

Neeves

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So i shouldn't use the switch in case it breaks and i've forgotten how to kick the clutch open ?

FYI, i never use the clutch. With 2 engines running, driving 60a 24v alternator, electricity isn't in short supply.

Retrieval is done from the bow, so i haven't forgotten y way there.
We never used the clutch either, never needed to. Our windlass operated at 1m/sec - it did not take long to deploy the anchor.

You can agree with me anytime :)

Jonathan
 

geem

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We never used the clutch either, never needed to. Our windlass operated at 1m/sec - it did not take long to deploy the anchor.

You can agree with me anytime :)

Jonathan
We never anchor without using the clutch. We can deploy chain at way higher than 1m/ sec. Very handy when its blowing 30kts with bullets coming at you from 90° variations to your heading. We do it as a matter of course even when it's calm as its so easy and the windlass has an easily controlled clutch with friction break so you can control the speed if you want. It also means that as a rule you only need the motor for raising the anchor so less wear and tear on motor brushes. Its a very versatile windlass thst allows you to lock the chain gypsy and use the rope drum independently whilst anchored
 

john_morris_uk

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We never used the clutch either, never needed to. Our windlass operated at 1m/sec - it did not take long to deploy the anchor.

You can agree with me anytime :)

Jonathan
As it happens on our own boat we don’t use the clutch. Chain is paid out quite fast enough under power with the windlass.
Contrast this with the big motor yacht I just delivered. The hydraulic windlass was very slow but you had to use it for the first few feet of anchor & chain to get things going. Then release the clutch and allow the anchor to fall and pull the chain out using gravity. It would then hit the seabed & stop and you’d have to pull the rest of the scope out using the boat engines reversing away. As tickover revs produced 7 knots speed, you had to be fairly cautious with the throttles etc.
 

Neeves

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We never anchor without using the clutch. We can deploy chain at way higher than 1m/ sec. Very handy when its blowing 30kts with bullets coming at you from 90° variations to your heading. We do it as a matter of course even when it's calm as its so easy and the windlass has an easily controlled clutch with friction break so you can control the speed if you want. It also means that as a rule you only need the motor for raising the anchor so less wear and tear on motor brushes. Its a very versatile windlass thst allows you to lock the chain gypsy and use the rope drum independently whilst anchored
I was mulling over this.

I suspect you have some heavy ground tackle?, 10mm chain and an anchor of decent weight. Gravity would be invaluable to over come any resistance within the windlass.

It made me wonder if this might be a downside to a lightweight rode, 6mm chain and 8kg aluminium anchors - installed on a windlass designed for, say, 15/20kg anchors and 8mm chain (but with a 6mm gypsy and lightweight anchors).

I don't recall that power deployment for us was much different to free fall. But we also tended to only deploy a maximum of 30m of chain - and recollections may be jaded.

Or - horses for courses.

Jonathan
 

geem

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I was mulling over this.

I suspect you have some heavy ground tackle?, 10mm chain and an anchor of decent weight. Gravity would be invaluable to over come any resistance within the windlass.

It made me wonder if this might be a downside to a lightweight rode, 6mm chain and 8kg aluminium anchors - installed on a windlass designed for, say, 15/20kg anchors and 8mm chain (but with a 6mm gypsy and lightweight anchors).

I don't recall that power deployment for us was much different to free fall. But we also tended to only deploy a maximum of 30m of chain - and recollections may be jaded.

Or - horses for courses.

Jonathan
We have 10mm chain and a 30kg Spade anchor (very rusty). The bow roller has a double roller rocking arrangement that self launches the anchor. All we need to do is release the clutch and the anchor drops. There is only a short distance from the anchor to the windlass. The windlass clutch is greased and once released, spins with minimal friction. I think even with even your lightweight ground tackle, on our set up, your anchor would deploy and free fall very quickly.
 

noelex

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In most situations the anchor and chain can be dropped either by using the power down option or by releasing the clutch. We use both methods depending on the circumstances. Releasing the clutch is preferred in strong wind or if trying to hit a very precise spot (such as small patch of sand in a rocky anchorage).

In clear water the free fall method produces an oddly satisfying mushroom impact cloud when the anchor hits the seabed. Some also claim that especially in hard sand this impact breaks up the seabed and helps the anchor obtain an initial set. This is a difficult claim to validate, but it is worth a try if you are struggling to set the anchor.
 

Irish Rover

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In my naivety I was hoping that by avoiding the use of the A word in my opening post this wouldn't turn into another one of those threads :sleep:. Of course we know who's responsible. Some people just can't resist temptation. I think this will be the first time I've hit the "unwatch" button on a thread I started myself.
 

Neeves

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In my naivety I was hoping that by avoiding the use of the A word in my opening post this wouldn't turn into another one of those threads :sleep:. Of course we know who's responsible. Some people just can't resist temptation. I think this will be the first time I've hit the "unwatch" button on a thread I started myself.
I have been developing concerns over your sensitivities and am pleased you have found a sensible solution. You and others can use a similar function to 'ignore' posts by specific individuals whose style upsets you or whose focussed replies you find tedious . YBW had foresight and has these 'tools' available to you.

Take care, stay safe

Jonathan
 

Neeves

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I investigated your new yacht to discover it is a 43' motor cat with big engines, around 250hp each. I can understand why you would not want to start an engine to tweak the rode. Whilst the idea of running an engine to support the batteries is sensible it made me wonder what batteries power the windlass, dedicated single battery or house batteries - as if the latter surely they would be quite sizeable and perfectly capable of accepting the windlass rode without the engines (or single engine).

I also now understand why they only wired one engine to the windlass - you use the engines as motive power, no mast, and are unlikely to run one engine in confined spaces.

As I understand it the 43 has the forward cockpit - I wonder how well that works 'offshore'. We would take seas over the bow on Josepheline and the idea of the forward cockpit was a brave one for Leopard - but it obviously works.

We went round the yard some years ago and the first forward cockpit yachts were being finished off. We would not buy a Leopard - nothing wrong with them but they are not geared up for customisation - their market is charter - what you see is what you get.

Jonathan
 

Neeves

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He has sold his boat so maybe getting withdrawal symptoms!

He’s anchored just behind you.

Don't worry about people anchored behind you - its the ones directly to windward you need worry about, especially if their yacht is bigger and heavier than yours but use specific unmentionable products that are not high on the Panope charts

I had withdrawal symptoms before we sold.

Jonathan
 
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