Winch-to-drill fitting as budget electic winch

fredrussell

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Er, yes. You clearly don’t understand the limitations. My 18v one will rip the clew out of my jib if I ask it to. Power is not the issue, it’s usability.
I haven’t used one of the dewalt ones, but I assume it’s not an all-or-nothing power delivery. I would assume that, like your Makita, it’s up to the operator how much power to apply with trigger.

I only mentioned this dewalt as it has an electric clutch - someone above was warning against the jolt one of these drills could give your arm - one with a clutch will not do this as that’s what its there to prevent.
 

ylop

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You could start with luffing up every time, then just for the hardest bits, etc until she's recovered? If she doesn't winch gently now she'll find it hard to start doing it again later. I'd also be concerned about the jarring from a drill not doing the shoulder any good.
Have you got a spare old winch you could set up at home so she gets the movement back without the load?
Sadly no old winches.
 

DreadShips

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I haven’t used one of the dewalt ones, but I assume it’s not an all-or-nothing power delivery. I would assume that, like your Makita, it’s up to the operator how much power to apply with trigger.
I wouldn't like my safety to rely on precisely and accurately squeezing a trigger whilst bouncing about happily on the sea...

(Agree that if the maximum torque can be preset that removes some of the issue)
 

ylop

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If the OP doesn't already own a suitable drill, then the cost of acquiring one might not be far short of a Winchrite! And suitable probably means high power right angle drive with a long handle.
The op does not own such a drill! I will need to check what the torque rating is on the drill that lives aboard and the chuck size as it’s a beefy adaptor. The pictures always show them with a bog standard drill.
 

AntarcticPilot

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The op does not own such a drill! I will need to check what the torque rating is on the drill that lives aboard and the chuck size as it’s a beefy adaptor. The pictures always show them with a bog standard drill.
Of course - they want to sell adapters! But previous discussions have all stated that an ordinary cordless drill is not up to the job on both ergonomic and torque fronts. and have usually settled on a Milwaukee right-angled drive drill.
 

Chiara’s slave

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Of course - they want to sell adapters! But previous discussions have all stated that an ordinary cordless drill is not up to the job on both ergonomic and torque fronts. and have usually settled on a Milwaukee right-angled drive drill.
All the big boys sell a suitable right angle drill now, Milwaukee were the first, could still be the best I don’t know. The issue is kickback. If you put the rope in the self tailer, you might easily damage the gear on the boat. If you don’t, then you need someone to tail for you, as the drill will be uncontrollable one handed, the trigger is in the wrong place, right up the business end, not where you need to hold it to resist the torque. Clutch wise, what we have found is that setting a toque that eliminated kickback will not winch the sheet in anything over about 8kn of wind. On our boat the weight of the mainsail means it won’t hoist either, ok maybe on low gear…. That takes bloomin ages🤣 So my take on drills for winching, they are of limited use. We do a lot of winching, our outrigger folding is all winched too, we do that every time we sail, before anything else. We do still use the drill, it’s probably less tiring, but not good enough to be considered a proper solution. I plan on getting a mate to bring me the Andersen electric conversion kit for one of my winches from USA where the price is comprehensible. The foot pedal switch leaves both hands free for tailing, boat clutches, giving hand signals to passing jet skis etc.
 

OCuea

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I am thrifty , ok , stingy , but a winch rite is alot of money. A drill with a clutch would have 2 uses, so that’s good and should stop wrist damage but I know I saw about 10 years ago a thing on eBay for £30 or so that fitted into top of winch and it’s rear end was secured to pushpit to stop it rotating or falling overboard and it had 3 ratios. It even had its own handle I think. I have searched for 2 days but can’t remember it’s name and all searches have failed. It was designed to do as the op wants, but would need many turns of the handle but was just what he needed for less than£100 for sure. Anyone know the thing? It was a red colour.
 

fredrussell

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I am thrifty , ok , stingy , but a winch rite is alot of money. A drill with a clutch would have 2 uses…
That’s the way I see it. A right angled drill is a very useful thing to have on a boat. I’ve got an ancient Makita corded one, wonderful tool.
 

Daydream believer

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In my workshop we had air screwdrivers that worked at a really fast rate. When they got to the end they wrenched the users hand. So the operator just held the driver with his finger very lightly on the hair trigget. So as it pulled, his finger slid off the switch lever immediately & the air stopped driving the barrel round.
I have used SDS drills in exactly the same way. I would have thought that a slower rotating SDS drill, with vibrate turned off, better for winching anyway; rather than a fast drill. Then the operator would just hold the handle such that as it jerked his/her finger slid off the switch instead of ripping the wrist round.
 

Daydream believer

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Ah thanks, that’s helpful. We do have a 10” winch handle - but if the sprayhood is up the halyard winches can’t use it. I’m not sure but I think the 10” might actually be worse for her shoulder - she’s quite short and consequently short armed so reaching over might be worse…. But I’ve only just considered that. In fact it may be that ensuring she has good position/posture is more important than the load for the winch!
Sprayhoods can be the work of the devil. If the person winching cannot stand upright & get their weight over the winch to apply optimum pressure then it can lead to strains. Lower the spray hood & leave it down. If you want to go camping, get a campervan instead.
 
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ylop

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Sprayhoods can be the work of the devil. If the person winching cannot stand upright & get their weight over the winch to apply optimum pressure then it can lead to strains. Lower the spray hood & leave it down. If you want to go camping, get a campervan instead.
Ah now we see why you didn't like Scotland ;-)
Campervans don't float very well.
At a slight 5'3" I'm not sure she'll be getting her weight over the winches on the cabin top with or without the sprayhood.
 

Daydream believer

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Ah now we see why you didn't like Scotland ;-)
Where did you get that from? As a child I lived on the borders for a while & my Grandfather came from Scotland. I never said I do not like Scotland.
But I do not like sprayhoods. I have never been on a boat where one did anything, other than kill my back & ruin the view
 

ylop

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Where did you get that from? As a child I lived on the borders for a while & my Grandfather came from Scotland. I never said I do not like Scotland.
You repeatedly say that one heather covered rock is the same as the others, and grumbled about lack of pontoon facilities on your trips North!
But I do not like sprayhoods. I have never been on a boat where one did anything, other than kill my back & ruin the view
Well it keeps the rain and windchill off the front of the cockpit quite effectively - we originally assumed we would benefit from a pilothouse in light of our weather, but have found that the sprayhood is not bad as a substitute. The difference in forward visibility under sail isn't massive because theres a life raft and genoa in the way anyway.
 
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