Winch bit for electric drill

DennisF

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Hi all. I have upgraded to a bigger boat and have found that the mainsail is taking a long time to pull up. I’ve seen winch bits that go in a cordless drill, but the bit says 13mm chuck and most of the drills advertised as 13mm are actually 12.7mm (1/2”). Does anyone have one and know whether it is OK in a 1/2” chuck?
 
Hi all. I have upgraded to a bigger boat and have found that the mainsail is taking a long time to pull up. I’ve seen winch bits that go in a cordless drill, but the bit says 13mm chuck and most of the drills advertised as 13mm are actually 12.7mm (1/2”). Does anyone have one and know whether it is OK in a 1/2” chuck?
I tried one of these before buying a Winchrite electric handle, the torque of the drill is most important IIRC needs to be over 100nm to get best usage.
 
Can you pull the main up at the mast and lose a lot of the friction if halyard led to cockpit?

I notice a lot of people winching away, motoring ahead fairly sharply and having problems, not saying this is you but might be worth a try.

A mate bought the bit you refer to so his wife could winch him up the mast, I tried it once and stopped after a few feet as it sounded like it was ripping the guts out the inside of the winch.

I think there’s a reason the winch rite is expensive.
 
Hi all. I have upgraded to a bigger boat and have found that the mainsail is taking a long time to pull up.
A little bit of lube in the right place can make a big difference. Pulling out the pins of the pulleys and applying a smear of winch grease helps. The one at the masthead is often overlooked but has the highest load. It usually needs the mast down to dismantle properly but a squirt of WD40 may be the best you can do for now. If you have mainsail sliders then dry lube in the track. If a bolt rope then a rub with a candle. They all help to reduce the effort. And service the winch of course.
 
I think a right angled cordless drill will be better than a normal drill. It has a longer body so more purchase/leverage than a drill. Those bits will fit in a 1/2” Chuck - it’s a popular solution over on USA forums.
 
I think a right angled cordless drill will be better than a normal drill. It has a longer body so more purchase/leverage than a drill. Those bits will fit in a 1/2” Chuck - it’s a popular solution over on USA forums.
What you say has some merit, we have tried it. But bear in mind the trigger is in the wrong place, and it’s hard to control. A winchrite is way better, we bought one after trying the drill way.
 
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I have tried this. I have a high torque drill which needs a strap attached to a solid point. The amount of torque was too much for my wrist. You also have to start off slowly. The first time I was a bit too heavy on the trigger and the top sail slide broke.
 
What you say has some merit, we have tried it. But bear in mind the trigger is in the wrong place, and it’s hard to control…
Indeed - I think this was mentioned in the thread re this subject I read on SA forum. It’s a shame, as a right-angled drill is obviously a useful thing to have on a boat, and to have it doubling up as a ‘wincher’ adds to that usefulness.
 
Indeed - I think this was mentioned in the thread re this subject I read on SA forum. It’s a shame, as a right-angled drill is obviously a useful thing to have on a boat, and to have it doubling up as a ‘wincher’ adds to that usefulness.
Sure. I’m a dedicated Makita tool user, we have their most powerful 18v right angle drill. It has more torque than I can hold, and I’m fairly solidly constructed🤣 They are of course useful ,for boat maintenance, but with the limitations of operating the trigger, it makes holding it a 2 handed affair. Winchrite have thought of this, their trigger is on the handle where you need it.
 
Sure. I’m a dedicated Makita tool user, we have their most powerful 18v right angle drill. It has more torque than I can hold, and I’m fairly solidly constructed🤣 They are of course useful ,for boat maintenance, but with the limitations of operating the trigger, it makes holding it a 2 handed affair. Winchrite have thought of this, their trigger is on the handle where you need it.
Design a chuck/ adapter for the winchrite and become a milyonair....
 
I have a defective Winchrite ….a crown gear wheel missing teeth. When looking for a replacement at silly prices there were reviews on the high failure rate so decided against it.
It just looks like a glorified windscreen wiper motor.
I had the 2 winch splined adapters….3/8th drive I think.
A small cordless was useless but an angled powered 3/8th drive was fine except its impact so will have to find a way to disable that.
Could do with it because I’m too heavy to get up the mast and it’s difficult to use the winch 360 because of our spray hood
 
There are 3 of us messing around with with winch bits and drllls/wrenches and all have the same problem. My possible solution is the same as you suggest, take the wrench apart and nobble the hammer mechanism. There doest seem to be a product that has the hammer action switchable.
Chris
 
There are 3 of us messing around with with winch bits and drllls/wrenches and all have the same problem. My possible solution is the same as you suggest, take the wrench apart and nobble the hammer mechanism. There doest seem to be a product that has the hammer action switchable.
Chris
I don’t understand this. Every battery drill I have owned has had switchable hammer action, and my 90 degree drill doesn’t have it at all.
 
Smaller angled drills which would suit the purpose all have 10mm chucks. The winch bits all need a 13mm chuck, only available on larger but unwieldy drills. So individually, we tried 3/8th or 1/2in wrench-type devices with a suitable socket. None that I've seen so far, have a disable facility. The hammering cuts in at a low torque and will wreck the winch. A job still in progress looking for a solution that doesn't cost the earth like the eWincher.
 
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