Winch bit for electric drill

[penberth3]

Smaller angled drills which would suit the purpose all have 10mm chucks. The winch bits all need a 13mm chuck, only available on larger but unwieldy drills. So individually, we tried 3/8th or 1/2in wrench-type devices with a suitable socket. None that I've seen so far, have a disable facility. The hammering cuts in at a low torque and will wreck the winch. A job still in progress looking for a solution that doesn't cost the earth like the eWincher.

So why are you using an impact tool? Read again posts #17 and #18 above.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

So why are you using an impact tool? Read again posts #17 and #18 above.

Exactly. And even a winchrite might be described as unwieldy. A normal handle is the easiest to use, followed by a full on electric winch. Powered handles of any description are a compromise, and a drill is a bigger compromise than a purpose made tool. Up to the user to decide if the compromise is worth it. We had our 90 deg drill on board for a year, barely used it cos it was too much effort. The winchrite gets used more regularly, not every operation by any means. There’s a lot of winching on a Dragonfly. Folding and unfolding, a 2:1 main halyard, the roller furling line, the mainsheet, in addition to the jib sheet winches. Both of us noticeably build muscle when sailing regularly.

 

[fredrussell]

As others have said, no need for impact tools. Milwaukee make a right-angled hole saw type drill - eg loads of torque and slow turning. That’s the one they all bang on about over on cruisers forum. I’ll see if I can find the thread and post a link. Worth a read if you’re considering the various options.

 

[CJTurner]

Yes please. Looking at the spec of one Milwaukee , it has the usual 10mm chuck problem. I asked a winch bit supplier whether he could make one with a 10mm shaft but he refused in case it sheared. I do have 3 powered primary winches, this need is for the in-mast main, which takes an eternity to winch out but with little resistance. Plus it's an age thing.

 

[Lightwave395]

This one has the torque and 13mm chuck but by the time you've bought batteries it's getting pricey - I'll stick with my Winchrite

Milwaukee M18 FRAD2-0 18V FUEL Super Hawg Brushless Right Angle Drill Driver - Body

 

[Chiara’s slave]

This one has the torque and 13mm chuck but by the time you've bought batteries it's getting pricey - I'll stick with my Winchrite

Milwaukee M18 FRAD2-0 18V FUEL Super Hawg Brushless Right Angle Drill Driver - Body

The money makes sense if you already buy into the tool ecosystem. Plus I bought my 90 deg drill off a pawnbroker, with a nearly new 5ah battery. But it’s still hard to use. Fortunately it’s still worth what I paid and I keep the battery. Sparkies love them, for drilling joists

 

[fredrussell]

Here’s the CF thread I mentioned earlier. Might be useful to some:

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f116/new-milwaukee-drill-works-for-large-mainsail-245252.html

 

[Legasea]

Yes pistol drill/drivers can have the ability to switch off the hammer action for masonry and non masonry drilling but the powered wrench type are a rotary percussion action…..great for removing seized nut and bolts….not so on a winch.

 

[Norman_E]

The first thing to do before buying power tools to raise the main is to sort out why it is so hard or slow to do so. On my 45 foot boat I initially found a lot of friction. I had an electric winch but did not want to use it to overcome a poor high friction setup.
The original halyard was old, stiff with salt and a bit big for the sheaves. Changing it to 12mm Marlowbraid improved things a lot. The bigger improvements came from the fact that the original rope was actually too big for the mast head block and the deck organiser. Further improvements came from going up the mast and freeing up and lubricating the masthead sheaves, and replacing an old mast foot block with a new ball bearing one. After that I could pull the mainsail well above second spreader without using the winch.
The power winch actually proved to be a bit of a nuisance as it tended to throw out the winch handle, so my technique became to pull the halyard by hand as far as possible, close the clutch, then use power almost to the top, with final adjustment and luff tensioning with the winch handle.

I suggest a thorough check-up and elimination of unnecessary friction before anything else.

 

[Bouba]

I have an old Winchright…the bit was too soft and twisted…I cut it off and welded a socket bit to it…and that worked fine…until something internal could no longer take the torque