mattman
New Member
I'm thinking about buying an Achilles 7.5 which is a triple keel, any comments on these?
Shouldn't that be a "triple heel"?I'm thinking about buying an Achilles 7.5 which is a triple keel, any comments on these?
must be a bit of an oddball as I race (but only at club level) in a bilge (twin?) keel boat ... the Sadler 29.Hi DJE and all,
What handicap do you race to? Is it totally individual, or is there a fairly standard benchmark for the Sadler 29 - and then is there a different handicap for the different keel options? I see only one Sadler 29 went in the RTIR this year, with an ISC of 0.907 - but I have no idea what keel she had.
I am looking to get a boat and I would like to race a bit and cruise. Obviously handicaps give me some idea of the relative speed of the various boats I am considering. My finance is not unlimited, and the savings in mooring costs and availability for bilge keel boats is attractive. I like the look of your boat.
Thanks
John
G'day mates,
I'm a retired seaman but I'm new to sailing and a new member of this forumI have been following this thread with a lot of interest, I've also been following other threads on other forums, on Ferro yachts and Tri's, I find all boating subjects pretty interesting because I'm thinking of buying a 30ft Ferro Cement Bilge Keel Yacht, just as soon as I can get away to inspect her. This one is a 30' Hartley.
Before being converted to seek a bilge keel ferro mono yacht, I had my heart set on a 36' to 40' Trimaran but, after researching Tri's and Monos (for over 18 months) I have come to believe the 30' FC, Bilge Keel, Hartley will suit my purpose better than any deep keel, fin keel or full keel mono or any Tri. (Tri's have a beam problem as you know) One thing that I'm not sure about with the Hartley, her owner says, she has a draught of only 2' 6”! Now that's a shallow draught! Can anyone advise me on this, is such a shallow draught normal on a 30' Hartley Ferro Bilge Keel yacht?
I plan on using the yacht for easy cruising, “the no rush to get anywhere type of cruising”, between the Hawksbury River, in New South Wales, the Whitsunday's in Queensland and the top end of Australia.
On my travels, I plan on going-up to explore and fish a number of rivers and shallow bays, there will also be quite a few Islands and, hard to get to (unless you have a shallow draught boat or a long range helicopter) remote coves and bays, so I was firmly convinced a Tri was the most suitable boat for my purpose. Then I discovered the 30' FC, Bilge Keels Hartley and after thinking things over for a few weeks, I now believe this Hartley would better suit my needs, more-so than a Tri.
I'll be looking her over later this week or early next week and if she's as the owner says she is, I'll make a serious offer for her and hopefully become her owner.
I would be interested in what you think of my choice of, my first yacht. A 30ft Ferro Cement Bilge Keel Hartley Sloop.
Cheers,
Bill AU
In the past, bilge keels were most often seen on tubby low-performance boats and many believed the performance problems were caused by the keels where in reality they were only part of the problem.
Hunter used to make a big thing about their 'twin fin' designs which they claimed were almost as efficient as the fin keel versions of their boats.
When properly configured with a suitable shape and the keels angled outwards so the lee foil is vertical when at a normal angle of heel, they shouldn't give any more leeway than a single keel. In light airs their will be some loss from the extra wetted surface but it would be hard to detect.
The biggest factor against them is prejudice. See previous discussions on other non-standard designs, e.g. unstayed rigs.
I see your yacht is not potty trained yet?![]()
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That's some generalisation!You split the keel into two parts and halve the aspect ratio, compared to a similar fin keel boat. It's all about the balance between lift and draft, just like with any wing.
So bilge keel boats are slow and sail poorly to weather not because the bilge keels happen to be attached to a tub, but because this is inherent to the design.
Thanks for your views but don't you think, it all depends on who built the boat...In what-ever medimum? I know a few people who's "hobby work" is first class. They work in offices by day and work in their home workshops nights and weekend and the items they turn-out are beautifull pieces any craftsman would be proud of.Think it is fair to say there have been some superb FC boats - mate of mine built an Endurance 40 from a Windboats hull - but home built ones are very variable. Not only are the designs often odd, but it is difficult to build and finish a substantial boat on a modest DIY budget.
Combination of FC, shallow draft, bilge keels 30ft adds up to a heavy slow tub. You seem to be suggesting it is not an original Hartley design but a copy, which might ring more alarm bells!
It is really difficult to advise whether this is a good boat for you without actually seeing it, knowing your expectations and particularly your budget. If it is cheap, well equipped and you have low expectations of performance, then it might be a good buy!
Thanks for responding DJE, it's good to get the views from people who own a BK yacht...Even if it's not a Ferro Bilge Keel yachtThat's some generalisation!
The two keels on my boat are shorter than the alternative fin keel as well as being shallower and so have a similar aspect ratio. The two keels also have an assymetric section, the outer surface is flat and the inner surface is convex. The keels are splayed so that the leeward keel is vertical when heeled to a typical sailing angle of about 20 degrees. The accelerated flow over the convex surface then generates lift to windward. I have no complaints about performance to windward; my only gripe is the slamming caused when the root of the windward keel breaks the surface in a choppy sea.
A touch under four feet draft and 29 feet LOA.By the way, what's the draught of your BK yacht?
Thanks for that, I guess I can make no decision till I inspect the yacht. I have just now received an email from the owner, he says the "keels" are 2ft 6in! So perhaps I got it wrong when I said, the draught was 2ft 6inA touch under four feet draft and 29 feet LOA.
Hello Tranona,Without wishing to prolong the discussion, but one thing you cannot do with "bilge keels" is generalise. Just read over this whole thread. "Bilge" and "twin" are not interchangeable. At one extreme you have a boat like an RM which are high performance with deep draft - but capable of drying out and at the other end you have boats with two keels on their bilges such as Snapdragons and Macwesters (or even my Eventide) where the keels serve more to stop them from falling over rather than contribute significantly to sailing performance. DJEs Sadler is closer to the RM with performance very little different from the fin keel version. The boat you are considering - if the draft is a small as you suggest is likely to be at the other end of the spectrum.!
I fully agree with you Tranona, it's a buyer beware in “all” second hand markets.Could not agree more about the standard that some amateurs can achieve, but I think you will find this is the exception rather than the norm. People often go down this route because they cannot find what they want in a ready made boat so the end result is often idiosyncratic - fine if your ideas are in line with those of the builder!
That's some generalisation!
The two keels on my boat are shorter than the alternative fin keel as well as being shallower and so have a similar aspect ratio. The two keels also have an assymetric section, the outer surface is flat and the inner surface is convex. The keels are splayed so that the leeward keel is vertical when heeled to a typical sailing angle of about 20 degrees. The accelerated flow over the convex surface then generates lift to windward. I have no complaints about performance to windward; my only gripe is the slamming caused when the root of the windward keel breaks the surface in a choppy sea.