What tension on life-lines is desirable?

[geem]

The more obtuse the angle the wire makes as it passes through the stanchion, the greater the reduction in WLL. Hence the tighter the wire the greater the risk there is of failure if it gets struck by a falling body. Slack lines reduces the obtuse angle and would improve the WLL. I have no idea if the OSR rules take this into account or if they only consider the point Flaming makes.

That's totally irrelevant for guardwires. The working load of 4mm wire is 1.3 tonnes. A slight deviation in the wire as it passes through stanchions will have no actual impact on a person falling against a wire. You would have to be fired out of a rocket to snap those wires if secured properly at the ends. We use Sta-lok fittings

 

[PaulRainbow]

I most certainly would not try crimping rigging fittings on to guard wires with basic hand tools, they are referred to as life lines for good reason.

A decent hydraulic crimper doesn't cost a fortune and a couple of crimps on each fitting aren't going to come apart.

 

[fredrussell]

When we cruise in the Caribbean you can tell instantly when a boat has kids onboard. There is netting. It can be a pain.

Indeed. How about a wire/ line that zig-zags from toe rail to first then second guard wire, then back to toe rail at a fairly acute angle? Perhaps less of a pain re spring lines, but enough to stop an unconscious or fallen person on side decks going under guard wires.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

That's totally irrelevant for guardwires. The working load of 4mm wire is 1.3 tonnes. A slight deviation in the wire as it passes through stanchions will have no actual impact on a person falling against a wire. You would have to be fired out of a rocket to snap those wires if secured properly at the ends. We use Sta-lok fittings

At 30 degree angle the WLL is reduced by 50%, so now 650 kg. At shallower angles even more reduction, so it is not irrelevant if designing guard wires and applying tension.

 

[Roberto]

There is netting. It can be a pain.

One of the biggest advantages of grown up kids is one can get rid of the netting.

 

[Refueler]

One of the biggest advantages of grown up kids is one can get rid of the netting.

Funny actually its a current topic with 'Wife' ... we have twin young dogs joined us ... and one is definitely interested in the boat ... I am thinking even though she is adamant no dog on the boat - to add netting so Clyde can come on

 

[flaming]

It's vertical deflection between supports, not sure any boat has 9m spaced stanchions

Yes, but you take the slack out of the whole 9m length to get that deflection. So if at rest there is say 10mm of deflection between each set of supports, and you have 5 such spans, then before you've even got any appreciable weight on the wire you get 50mm of deflection when you start to push on it. (Roughly, I know that it's not a linear increase in deflection).

I've set up lifelines to the OSR. The top lifeline is basically tight to the naked eye to get that sort of deflection.

 

[Refueler]

I most certainly would not try crimping rigging fittings on to guard wires with basic hand tools, they are referred to as life lines for good reason.

A decent hydraulic crimper doesn't cost a fortune and a couple of crimps on each fitting aren't going to come apart.

I agree if you mean BASIC tools ... worst way anyway of crimping. Basic tools do more damage than actually crimp.

There used to be a crimping tool sold by chandlers that was literally for this job ... and I know a guy who had one when I was living in UK ... it worked ...

Cannot find it anymore on sites.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

I most certainly would not try crimping rigging fittings on to guard wires with basic hand tools, they are referred to as life lines for good reason.

A decent hydraulic crimper doesn't cost a fortune and a couple of crimps on each fitting aren't going to come apart.

Or get the wire and fittings, measure and cut stuff to length, and take the lot to a rigger with a proper hydraulic crimper and say 'crimp that'. I wouldn't use the Heath Robinson two bolts to squeeze two bars to crimp anything more important than a dog lead. And then nothing bigger than a poodle.

 

[Roberto]

I'm using wire rope thimbles and ss wire rope grip (duplex) clamp rather SS ferrules as I'm not too sure I have the right gear .

Are you comfortable with *not* using 1x19 wire ? I personally would do not like the higher flexibility of 7X19 wire for this use, when grabbing the lifeline I prefer it to be stiffer; plus I have hairy arms and legs and every time I rub them against 7x19 (which I have as closing gates between the pushpits) I leave a bit of hair there 1X19 is a lot better

 

[Refueler]

Are you comfortable with *not* using 1x19 wire ? I personally would do not like the higher flexibility of 7X19 wire for this use, when grabbing the lifeline I prefer it to be stiffer; plus I have hairy arms and legs and every time I rub them against 7x19 (which I have as closing gates between the pushpits) I leave a bit of hair there 1X19 is a lot better

Because I don't race my boat - I am very happy with Parafil lines ......... much kinder on the skin and handling.

 

[GHA]

Or get the wire and fittings, measure and cut stuff to length, and take the lot to a rigger with a proper hydraulic crimper and say 'crimp that'. I wouldn't use the Heath Robinson two bolts to squeeze two bars to crimp anything more important than a dog lead. And then nothing bigger than a poodle.

Plus hydraulic crimpers can be got for 30 odd quid on ebay. But really not much use as getting dies to suit & crimp DIN spec ferrules can be a pain & cost more than the press. Easier just to find a rigging co with press designed to do the job with proper dies.
Electrical dies that usually ship with ebay crimpers don´t do it, I've destruction tested a set of both dies on calibrated test kit, lX dies slip at abouut 50% of the load compared to DIN dies, which are close to MBL of the wire.
Lots experience on these forums, but little structural knowledge despite the amount of advice posted , good idea to DYOR.........

 

[RunAgroundHard]

... ss duplec wire rope clamps in this situation?

They are rated at 80% of the wire that they are sized for, which should be adequate for your use. However, they are not recommended for hoisting which I assume is because the grip is not reliable. If your mind is made up, I would certainly use a thread lock as any slight slacking of the nut would of course reduce the grip. Plain nuts are not reliable fasteners in this use.

 

[coopec]

Are you comfortable with *not* using 1x19 wire ? I personally would do not like the higher flexibility of 7X19 wire for this use, when grabbing the lifeline I prefer it to be stiffer; plus I have hairy arms and legs and every time I rub them against 7x19 (which I have as closing gates between the pushpits) I leave a bit of hair there 1X19 is a lot better

How to Choose Between 7x7 and 1x19 Balustrade Wire

1 April 2020
Categories: Business, Blog

If you want to install a stainless steel wire balustrade, then you have to choose a grade of wire to string between your posts. Typically, people use 7x7 or 1x19 grades for this purpose.

While both of these wires are more or less the same size, they have different properties. Which one should you choose?

Do You Need Extra Strength?

Both 7x7 and 1x19 wire ropes are very strong. In most cases, either will string up balustrading more than adequately. However, if you want your wires to be extra strong, your best bet is to go for 1x19 wires. These products are made from thicker strands of wire. The end result is a more rigid wire with added strength. It won't bend or stretch, and it is far harder to break.

Do You Need Some Flexibility?

In some cases, you want balustrading wiring to have some give in it. For example, you may need the wire to bend or to follow an angled line. Or, you may plan to swage your balustrade by hand rather than by using a hydraulic fixing tool. In this instance, a 7x7 wire is probably your best option. This wire is made........

How to Choose Between 7x7 and 1x19 Balustrade Wire - Business Development: Everything You Need to Know

 

[geem]

How to Choose Between 7x7 and 1x19 Balustrade Wire

1 April 2020
Categories: Business, Blog

If you want to install a stainless steel wire balustrade, then you have to choose a grade of wire to string between your posts. Typically, people use 7x7 or 1x19 grades for this purpose.

While both of these wires are more or less the same size, they have different properties. Which one should you choose?

Do You Need Extra Strength?

Both 7x19q and 1x19 wire ropes are very strong. In most cases, either will string up balustrading more than adequately. However, if you want your wires to be extra strong, your best bet is to go for 1x19 wires. These products are made from thicker strands of wire. The end result is a more rigid wire with added strength. It won't bend or stretch, and it is far harder to break.

Do You Need Some Flexibility?

In some cases, you want balustrading wiring to have some give in it. For example, you may need the wire to bend or to follow an angled line. Or, you may plan to swage your balustrade by hand rather than by using a hydraulic fixing tool. In this instance, a 7x7 wire is probably your best option. This wire is made........

How to Choose Between 7x7 and 1x19 Balustrade Wire - Business Development: Everything You Need to Know

We use 7x19 running rigging wire at 4mm diameter. In perfect condition after 11 years. The previous owner fitted plastic coated. It was not safe when I removed it. Sever rust underthe plastic

 

[Roberto]

How to Choose Between 7x7 and 1x19 Balustrade Wire

I know the differences, but as you want to use that type of fitting with a thimble, if you bend a 5-6mm 1X19 wire around a couple of cm thimble the single strands of the outer part will open up, with a big question mark about the residual strength. It will also be very difficult to do it by hand, I used 7x19 around thimbles and crimped with Talurit ferrules and beyond 5-6mm it was very difficult, can't imagine to do it with 1x19.

 

[geem]

Indeed. How about a wire/ line that zig-zags from toe rail to first then second guard wire, then back to toe rail at a fairly acute angle? Perhaps less of a pain re spring lines, but enough to stop an unconscious or fallen person on side decks going under guard wires.

That's how we keep our dog onboard. We don't use wire. Just 4mm line. We lace it to the bottom guardwire and every hole in the aluminium toerail. It works well and isn't quite so offensive on the eye. You can thread spring lines through it but I never get it right first time