What is an anchor windlass drum likely to be made from?

[skyflyer]

I cannot (and need to) remove the drum from my (Maxwell 500) windlass. This has a smooth drum not a gypsy and it has to be pulled from the shaft in order to remove the entire unit (which needs a refurbished or new motor).
I have used a mechanical puller to no avail. There is no room to fit a hydraulic puller. I gave up and gave the job to the yard whohave tried their heavy duty puller, all to no avail. Heating and cooling and other known techniques have also been tried.

So I am now at the point where I am prepared to sacrifice the drum, as I have a friend who is a metal turner who will happily make me a new one. But what is it likely to be made from? Given it has to take punishment from a galvanised steel chain I wouldnt have throughs aluminium or chromed bronze. Maybe stainless?

All suggestions (for removal or replacement) are welcome. What I am not prepared to do is spend upwards of £800 for a new windlass which I rarely use.

For the avoidance of doubt and endless posts and discussions, the motor can not be removed from the unit as it is, in situ, without cutting holes in the deck or side of the anchor locker. There is insufficient room to get a spanner or socket to the motor mounting bolts.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Lofrans royal one is aluminium.

 

[theoldsalt]

Skyflyer,

There appears to be different versions of the Maxwell 500.
This manual gives info on the Maxwell Freedom 500 and may help? (pages 30 &31)
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...sg=AFQjCNENydM_QOsCAebEsL1MAGqABEvM8A&cad=rja

 

[macd]

Googling Maxwell 500 comes up with all sorts of different models: https://www.google.com/search?q=max...iFte7PAhUCL8AKHYVrDRYQsAQIJg&biw=1920&bih=955

Can you indicate which model you have?

FWIW, the bumf for the (vertical) VW500 has this: High-quality finish on above deck components, manufactured from marinegrade 316 stainless steel and chromed bronze, for long term durability.
For the VC500, this: High quality finish on above deck components, hard wearing chrome over marine-grade bronze.

Doesn't the handbook give any guidance on removing your drum?

 

[prv]

Given it has to take punishment from a galvanised steel chain

The warping drum shouldn't be handling chain!

(I would have guessed probably chromed bronze.)

Pete

 

[Seajet]

Could be a nasty zinc casting; it's hard to think how to make a proper replacement under £800...

 

[RichardS]

The warping drum shouldn't be handling chain!

Pete

That comment intrigued me as well.

Richard

 

[skyflyer]

It is fitted to a 20 year old boat and therefore not a current model. the manual isn't even in the 'discontinued products' section of Maxwell's site (although I have the original and and it is of no great help.). the nearest is the VC500 (although VC means vertical capstan, its actually mounted horizontally!) Manual here http://www.maxwellmarine.com/downloader.php?i=132


Making a new drum is a VERY simple turning job, as is a shaft with a milled keyway to take the drum. (provided you have a mate with a workshop!)

Bluntly; if I can't repair it for under £500 then its staying bust!


You are of course correct that a drum is not appropriate to handle chain. It is an american boat and as you are probably aware they favour a rope rode with just a few metres of chain at the anchor end. Ideally I would have a gypsy, but not at this late stage of the boat's life, not least because I have sections of chain joined with shackles that would not run through a gypsy.


The drum is workable. You cannot take enough turns of chain for it to to do the job on its own, (you get 'riding' turns, albeit the drum is horizontal!) but by taking 1 and a half turns and applying gentle tension on the chain, the frictional assistance from the drum makes the difference between it being a back breaker or fairly simple pulling job!

Drum removal as per the manual is a simple job of slipping the drum off the shaft. Had the item been maintained as it should have, with the drum removed every 3 months and the shaft cleaned and re-greased, then I'm sure it would now be a simple job. Evidently it hasn't been looked at since 1996 though. If it was a dis-similar metal to the shaft there is every chance the shaft and drum have corroded together .

Some of the owners association members have done the job and it has always been tricky, with several cycles of heating and cooling needed. My suspicion is that most people probably fit them and forget them.