westerley fulmars

JAKEPAD

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having just completed my coastal skipper, I am now ready to spread my sails and set out acros the channel and further afield. I've looked at and am tempted by Westerley Fulmars. Any advice out there?

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Re: Fulmar - makes sense

A Fulmar would be a sensible entry point into boat ownership, at 32 feet and 4 tons muscle power can overcome most parking mishaps. The bilge keel version is said to slam in a lively seaway.

Watch out for ex charter fleet examples that used to be based at Hamble point in the late 80's.

Remember that a yacht is just a collection of components many of which typically fail at around 20 years of age, specifically:

Engine.
Prop shaft and bearing.
Rudder and mounts.
Hull Osmosis.
Water tank osmosis.
Rusting galvanized fuel tanks.
Crazed hatches.
Leaky corroded window frames.
Wobbly spreader sockets.
Knackered switch panel.
Droopy head lining.


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30boat

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I own the first Fulmar built and not much was wrong when I bought her.
The engine was working well enough but was replaced for piece of mind.
The windows were all corroded and leaking so were replaced with opening ports.
Being the first of the line and knowing their reputation for weak keel attachment,the bottom was rebuilt(from the inside)and new much beefier floors laminated in.
The mast was fine and the standing rig was only 3 tears old otherwise it would have been replaced.
There was no osmosis.
The lining was falling off and was removed.
The boat sails beautifuly and on a recent trip to Madeira we averaged 140 miles a day on a run and 115 120m a day when beating on the way back.
She's easy to handle and quite dry.
Overall, a solid safe boat that is not very good looking but makes up for it in many ways.

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PeterGibbs

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9 seasons on a Fulmar and I sometimes wonder why I ever sold her. Great boat. You will not be disappointed - bilge or fin keel - I reckon the Fulmar is probably the best bilge keeler ever built - just look at the foils and how they are raked - excellent. Mine got me back across the N Sea in worst gale of my life - she submarines in such conditions but you will not feel you are about to go under for good! No vices and easy to handle fractional rig.

Over 600 were built so you can still get a good model not bashed up or loaded with silly mods. Pay someting between 30 and 36k for a good example probably with a Bukh 20 engine - excellent engine too - easy to DIY maintain and very simple and reliable.

The double bunk in the saloon - another excellent point. I could go on, as you can see.

Westerley produced some great designs, this is one of them. You should get back pretty well all that you paid for yours, when sadly the day comes to move on.

good luck,

Peter Gibbs.

PS. More questions? email me.

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BlueSkyNick

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When we were considering a Westerly earlier in the year, we were recommended to join the Owners Association website. It proved to be very active and helpful - albeit that we ended up buying a Moody!

Go to www.westerly-owners.co.uk.

Good luck, and enjoy the boat, whatever you choose.

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Bergman

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I can second Jonjo's point about the bilge keeler. Once sailed one for a week and she slammed something awful, scared the pants off me first time we went hard on the wind. We were off Harwich and I thought she had hit the bottom.

Never sailed the fin version so can't comment on that although people who have them appear happy with the boat.

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andy_wilson

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You will not be too disappointed.

Inside is small by modern 32ft standards but works well at sea.

The forecabin is a generous double with swinging room to change with the infill removed. Main cabin gives 2 excellent sea berths underway and port converts to a double in dock. Quarter berth is a single / young lovers only. Heads is good for banging your head and with 2 hanging lockers opposite and bags of other stowage space this aspect is good. With a pipe cot and one on the floor we have slept 7.

More to the point the table will seat 8 at a push. So will the cockpit - nearly.

The chart table is a good size but can get wet in big following seas.

Heavy (well over 5 tonnes with fuel, water and stores) which shows it's benefit in a seaway.

There is enough forefoot immersed to keep a reasonable grip, and the (longish) fin is stable enough to allow the tiller to be lashed and sail long distances unattended on the wind. They remain easy to manouver in tight spaces both ahead and astern.

Painted decks are miles ahead of moulded so called non-slip. Rig is simple, robust, and offers tuning possibilities being fractional. If you are that way inclined you can sail one like a dinghy and they will plane if you are so inclined. 10 knots + is possible for considerable periods off the wind. They easily acheive hull speed of 6.3 knots unless pinched too close upwind.

Watch out for:-
The articulation of the deck chain plate attachment was never quite right leading most to suffer some distortion of the deck (just put a ruller across the deck in this area). Important therfore that the surveyor recognises this and examines closely the webs below deck to assess if movement is present / a problem / requires remedial work.

All early models are likely to have had plywood floors, reinforced around the keel(s). Most later ones may have too, later versions had stringers of laminated over foam blocks. Any remedial work is likely to consist of this latter method.

Gentle groundings can flatten the hull behind the keel. Ensure this is examined in conjunction with any sign of movement of the floors. This is incredibly common on many classes and not as big a problem as some make out.

A few were made in the mid-nineties, but any from the eighties likely to be ready for a new fuel tank. They tend to go in one front corner, depending upon where the condensation sinks to.

Early ones had Bukhs, later ones Volvo 2002. Despite what some will have you believe, the Bukhs cost an absolute fortune to repair and seem no more reliable or less smoky when worn than the Volvos. Some consumables are obtainable dirt cheap for the Volvo's and some ancilliaries available from the auto scrapyards.

Anything with a Volvo up to about '87/'88 may have 'THE' gearbox coupling problem widely covered here and elsewhere. There is a cheapish modification available which requires gearbox removal but the engine and shaft can remain in situ. Volvo 2002 in goodish fettle averages 1.5 lit./hour and gives 6.3 knots at 2,500 rpm, 7 knots flat out.

The effects of osmosis never seems to rear it's head on Fulmars.

Rudder tube and P-bracket require the usual close attention in case of grounding / entanglement issues. Check also for splits at the top / front of the rudder moulding. Simple re-lamination to cure.

I could go on but you get the picture.

PM me if this raises any other questions, and try the Westerly owners web-site and forum. Lots to go at there.

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JAKEPAD

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thank you for all the advice. Am definitely now swayed to get a Westerley fulmar. Website very useful
KMiller

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JAKEPAD

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Website is very useful, thank you! AND we still want to buy one. Why did you go for a Moody over a westerley?
KMiller

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JAKEPAD

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Thank you for the detailed reply. Some have responded negatively re bilge because of 'slamming' What do you think? My wife thinks that 30 -36k is too much money for a 'rather tatty' boat!!!! What can you do about drooping headlining?
KMiller

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JAKEPAD

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Thank youfor the enthusiastic response. My wife wants to know what you replaced the headlining with?
KMiller

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JAKEPAD

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Re: Fulmar - makes sense

Thank you for all the useful advice. I will use the checklist provided by you when scrutinising boats in the future.
KMiller

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StephenW

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I was in the same position as you last year; did my coastal skipper in a Fulmar etc. Came to the conclusion a Fulmar was a good bet too.

Saw one...around 1980/81 with a broker- looked promising but on the second visit asked to be able to lift flooring to check keel/stringers. After unscrewing the whole floor found 3" of water in the bilge and diagonal cracks across many of the the reinforcement stringers (see earlier posting - stringers improved about 81/82 to be dressed oevr foam. Larger section = greater strength). Remedial treatment VERY expensive to do properly so ditched it.

The next was similar age, generally good but was found on survey to have hull voids as big as your hand in many places. VERY expensive to remedy effectively (looked like poor layup technique) Ditched that too.

Ended up getting a Sadler 32 (fin keel) . Tough sea boat, very seaworthy in a blow but not quite as quick as a Fulmar in calmer weather and not quite as much room below. However, for a small family cruiser it sails easily, retains its value and you generally get more for your money than a Fulmar of similar age. Fin keels are a bit more limiting in terms of where you can cruise, but then cross channels/big seas are easier to handle.

I have looked at a number of Westerlies, osmosis can be a problem as they incorporated fillers in the resin below the waterline which makes it more susceptible to water infiltration.

On balance you will find there is no perfect boat, it is basically a compromise to suit your purposes. Ask a lot of questions, sail a few different models and speak with owners and surveyors to get a clear picture. Make sure you get a YBDSA surveyor who knows his stuff to do the survey. Also recommend Nigel Calders Electrical and Mechanical boat handbook.

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> My wife thinks that 30 -36k is too much money for a 'rather tatty' boat!!!!

It is, tatty Fulmars should sell under 30k.

> What can you do about drooping headlining?

Use the search facility here at YBW there is a lot of good advice, in summary:

1 - Don't kill yourself with glue fumes.
2 - Don't repeat the problem by using the same glue/foam combination that Westerly used.
3 - Set aside loads of time to rid your boat of the old stuff before the replacement material goes up.



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> found on survey to have hull voids as big as your hand

What is a "hull void", do Fulmars have a cored construction in the main hull or did the surveyor find areas of hull with dry lay-up i.e. a bit light on resin.

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burgundyben

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Many of the Westerley sea school boats from Hamble point that jonjo mentions were returned to the factory as the webs in the hull that the shroud chainplates fasten to were coming away from the hull shell, it was blamed on two different resins at the time. This problem affected only the second fleet, the first 11 were built 1986 ish and the second lot about 1989 ish.

I used to work at westerley sea school so know the boats well. Have been throught a couple of 70 knot squals with three reefs and storm jib, never batted an eyelid.

If you see a fulmar of 86 or 89 vintage and its got a white plastic 90 degree elbow stuck in the transdom to deflect the exhaust downwards its probly an ex sea school boat.

First fleet all had musical names, Melody, Minuet, Overture, Lullaby, Prelude, Nocturne, Symphony, Sonata, Rhapsody(bent mast but faster),Bolero (had a big collision once, Cowes week 87) plus one other cant remember name.

Second fleet used same names ie Melody II plus twelth boat was Cantata, and a privately owned one that was chartered was Hakuna Matata.

Hope this helps.

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StephenW

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They are a single skin with glued on foam lining (a pain when it all falls down - hence "Westerly Droop").

Basically during the layup of the boat the surveyor suspected that the workers followed bad practice and allowed dirt onto their footwear (during tea breaks etc) during laying up the glassfibre, which then prevented the succeeding layers from adhering properly. This may have happened several times.

Result was voids (areas of skin in which there was an air pocket) between layers of grp i.e. a form of delamination. Moisture readings were VERY high, particularly in localised areas.

An attempt had been made to try and treat the problem by the boatyard in which it was situated but the problem was still very clearly apparent to my surveyor by hammer testing (thank heavens). Later acknowledged by the yard and owner as an expensive to rectify fault. Required planing back and application of new outer skin.

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