We have a leak

As an aside, on almost all boats of your size today, GPS in one form or another is available in a variety of devices, even if it's a phone which will give an SOG as a minimum, so do you actually need this hull fitting, and wouldn't it be wiser to remove it and just fill the hole as a permanent repair, and sell the surface display?
 
jamie N said:
As an aside, on almost all boats of your size today, GPS in one form or another is available in a variety of devices, even if it's a phone which will give an SOG as a minimum, so do you actually need this hull fitting, and wouldn't it be wiser to remove it and just fill the hole as a permanent repair, and sell the surface display?
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The cost is in taking the boat out of the water, which would have to be done to permanently fill the hole with GRP and fair it. A new skin fitting is less than £15.

And speed through the water vs SOG is very useful for working out tidal flow.

One thing about NASA's insistence on silicone is that unlike PU this takes 24 hours to cure, so this is not a job that can be done against a wall between tides - so either way it seems we need to pay for a haulout when we get home.

- W
 
cherod said:
P48 is not epoxy , fast setting fiberous glass ?( since you replied quote to my post ) i never suggested imminent catastrophic disaster , i thot that was what you were worried about , good luck .
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I wasn't worried about imminent disaster until half the folk on here told me I was facing it!

I have used P48 before, it is good stuff. But the little I have left is in the shed at home!

I think CT1 around and over the ring, as if it was glass, would be a semi-permanent fix but maybe hard to remove when I lift the boat in a couple of weeks.

- W
 
webcraft said:
I wasn't worried about imminent disaster until half the folk on here told me I was facing it!

I have used P48 before, it is good stuff. But the little I have left is in the shed at home!

I think CT1 around and over the ring, as if it was glass, would be a semi-permanent fix but maybe hard to remove when I lift the boat in a couple of weeks.

- W
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but you will have a grinder and drill when you get home so all things possible :)(y)
 
Just thinking..but if you put a decent 'fillet' of a 'PU' goo around the fitting, as in lather it on, then even if the outside flange split off, the inner part would not shift, or leak.
Be enough untill you can replace it.
 
DownWest said:
Just thinking..but if you put a decent 'fillet' of a 'PU' goo around the fitting, as in lather it on, then even if the outside flange split off, the inner part would not shift, or leak.
Be enough untill you can replace it.
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My thoughts exactly. The only issue would be removing it when I come to replace the thru-hull!

This is now my preferred option, and I think it will give me the confidence to continue the cruise, possibly even to leave the boat on her mooring over Winter, though my preference would still be to haul and replace the through-hull.

If I do this I will try to post a pic of the repair.

This has been a sobering and very informative thread!

- W
 
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cherod said:
but you will have a grinder and drill when you get home so all things possible :)(y)
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Indeed, but a grinder isn't great on sealant!

Last question, if I do put a generous bead and fillet of CT1 round the base, over the nut and a few mil up the tube (as per the NASA diagram for glassing the thing in), how will I remove it when I lift out to install the new skin fitting?

Will I be able to cut it all away, or am I creating another problem?

I've ordered a can of Innotec Seal and Bond Remover as I read about it on another thread, but I suspect this is only good for the last wee bit after cutting/scraping most of it off.

- W
 
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I have quite a bit of experience with CT1. It can be removed, cut away the thicker parts with a sharp knife, then use some of this
37EEA38A-9C46-44C4-B188-527865551088.jpeg
Use something coarse such as a scotsbrite pad, it will take a bit of time but it will all come away with a bit of effort.
 
longjohnsilver said:
I have quite a bit of experience with CT1. It can be removed, cut away the thicker parts with a sharp knife, then use some of this
View attachment 121604
Use something coarse such as a scotsbrite pad, it will take a bit of time but it will all come away with a bit of effort.
Click to expand...

Dammit, just ordered the Seal and Bond Remover. Guess I will have to buy this as well and do a comparative review!

- W
 
longjohnsilver said:
I have quite a bit of experience with CT1. It can be removed, cut away the thicker parts with a sharp knife, then use some of this
View attachment 121604
Use something coarse such as a scotsbrite pad, it will take a bit of time but it will all come away with a bit of effort.
Click to expand...
+1… Never had any dramas removing it or its derivatives/competitors - unless, that is, it’s sandwiched/clamped as an adhesive (then you realise it is a sticky b****r!).
 
webcraft said:
Well it's done... Fingers crossed. Pity the only CT1 I had on quantity was ds-coloured...

View attachment 121637

- W
Click to expand...
Hope that does the trick
I'm late to this thread so sorry if it was already mentioned, but this does sound like one case where a SeaBung might actually be useful. I just dislike them because they proudly boasted on Dragons' Den that they could sell a £6 product for £50 and they were going to actively petition the MCA to have them made a legal requirement for all boats.

Anyway best wishes from Galicia 8)
 
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