Waterproofing connections for a plotter or similar on a bracket in the cockpit

[Cerebus]

It has proven impossible (without major restructuring) to surface mount the new Matsutec 528A AIS transponder and plotter in the cockpit, not least because it is a stupid shape compared to the old 33A

I am therefore using the supplied bracket. However, the plugs at the back are going ot be exposed to the elements. The power plug looks as though it will be relatively waterproof, but what about the VHF aerial socket and the GPS aerial socket? Plus there is the multi-pin data plug, which has no cover on it and will not be used at the moment. I have included a picture of the back of the unit showing the sockets.

I would lo be able to dismount the unit and store it down below when the boat is not in use, so permanent or semi-permanent options like self-amalgamating tape are not ideal.

Would a simple cover on top of the unit - eg a three sided box structure that provided a mini 'hood' for the plugs - be sufficient?

I also thought of cable boots, but of course I would have to remove and remake the plugs and I am not sure where I would get the correct size boots.

I am sure some of you have faced similar problems and solved them, so over to you YBW hive mind

.View attachment 194023

I wish it still existed but it does not.

There used to be a tube of some type of gel that protected electrical connections in the manner you require.

It was designed for classic car electronics I believe.

I used it on classic cars and on 4x4 vehicle electronics. My 4x4 used to compete competitively and would go through water.

The gel protected electronic contacts. I cannot recall the specific name of the product, I am sorry.

I used to buy tubes from RS electronics but the product became unavailable years ago.

To this day I have electronic components in many places still protected by this gel.

How do I know? Because no corrosion is seen and also I can still see the gel covering contacts that have been subjected to salt water emersion.

Perhaps there has been a replacement product?

I looked up on the classic car forum I belong to but they just show an inferior silicone based dielectric gel used.

Perhaps there is old stock available (sorry I cannot recall the name but I will try to find out).

It would have solved your problem because the product protected distributor contacts that were submerged in 4x4 races, so even with the monitor not connected the bare sockets could be rained upon and still be protected and work when next screwed into the monitor !

 

[Daydream believer]

Yes. As does the backup clingfilm. Belt and braces, a little fiddly to get the clingfilm off but not as difficult as self amalgamating tape (solid or liquid)

- W

I cannot help wondering if clingfilm will get close enough to the end where the unit is. I can see the purpose where Refueler describes to surround a complete unit because the clingfilm can run up the wiring or whatever far enough to form a seal. But getting a seal around a fitting where it goes in to a unit? No.
I have rolls of the stuff & use it to wrap brushes after washing & soaking in brush cleaner, or white spirit. But after a while the brushes will still go hard. It does keep them in a nice tight shape though.
If I was me I would work on keeping the chartplotter reasonably free of spray & rain. Then at the end of a trip remove the unit & put it below. The free end of the supply cable could go in a cheap sandwich bag with a bit of tape to seal it off untill needed

 

[rogerthebodger]

I have made up some curly cable, but gab did not source a replacement plug so I could make up a replacement cable

 

[Refueler]

Yes. As does the backup clingfilm. Belt and braces, a little fiddly to get the clingfilm off but not as difficult as self amalgamating tape (solid or liquid)

- W

My point exactly ...

If you use liquid poly or the rope end whipping dip ... it would likely be a bit of a faff to disconnect and then a clean up job to reconnect ..

 

[Refueler]

I cannot help wondering if clingfilm will get close enough to the end where the unit is. I can see the purpose where Refueler describes to surround a complete unit because the clingfilm can run up the wiring or whatever far enough to form a seal. But getting a seal around a fitting where it goes in to a unit? No.
I have rolls of the stuff & use it to wrap brushes after washing & soaking in brush cleaner, or white spirit. But after a while the brushes will still go hard. It does keep them in a nice tight shape though.
If I was me I would work on keeping the chartplotter reasonably free of spray & rain. Then at the end of a trip remove the unit & put it below. The free end of the supply cable could go in a cheap sandwich bag with a bit of tape to seal it off untill needed

The CorrosionX is sprayed on ... that coats and protects without gumming up the works .... Clingfilm over that is 'icing on the cake'

CorrosionX can be sprayed liberally ... if you see the average RC Rx with all the servo leads and dual antenna .... it does alright there !

 

[jamie N]

For connectors that have an opportunity to get splashed, I'd WD40 the connector faces, then join them. I'd avoid cling film as in my experience it tends to retain the water.
If one wants to be a bit 'posh', use MS4 or MS111 being careful not to get it into the 'female' side of the connector.
These are used on every ROV in the world to help with connector integrity.

 

[Cerebus]

For connectors that have an opportunity to get splashed, I'd WD40 the connector faces, then join them. I'd avoid cling film as in my experience it tends to retain the water.
If one wants to be a bit 'posh', use MS4 or MS111 being careful not to get it into the 'female' side of the connector.
These are used on every ROV in the world to help with connector integrity.

What is ms4 and ms111, please.

Google showed a computer mouse for Ms111 !

 

[jamie N]

Apologies: MS4 is quite 'old school' as a silicon grease.
MS111 is considered 'better', but both are used as bog standard pieces of kit on pretty much every underwater piece of kit to seal connectors. For W's use, either will work and last for longer than most of us have left on this planet!

 

[Daydream believer]

CorrosionX can be sprayed liberally ... if you see the average RC Rx with all the servo leads and dual antenna .... it does alright there !

I am not aware of anyone using that product in our flying club

 

[rogerthebodger]

This is what I use for connections on submersible pumps and water-resistant wiring

Straight Through Cable Joints - Metaplast

 

[Cerebus]

This is what I use for connections on submersible pumps and water-resistant wiring

Straight Through Cable Joints - Metaplast

Would those products not require permanent installation of the device though?

When leaving the boat I assume the owner wants to disconnect and place monitor below?

 

[Halo]

Used carefully I agree with the previous post that self amalgamating tape is the answer. It seals really well and protects the cables from flexing. I have used it on joints and they have stayed dry in all weather and even lying in water

 

[Refueler]

I am not aware of anyone using that product in our flying club

My post was that the average RX has leads coming out of it ... in response to an earlier post of how to seal where leads etc are.

I only know of one guy who uses it - but it WORKS ... and its reccomended on every RC Forum I read ..

 

[Daydream believer]

My post was that the average RX has leads coming out of it ... in response to an earlier post of how to seal where leads etc are.

I only know of one guy who uses it - but it WORKS ... and its reccomended on every RC Forum I read ..

Some of our members use a dab of hot melt adhesive to hold the plug in place. That stops it dropping out of the receiver. The inline plug/sockets use a plastic retainer. Inside an RC plane there is no damp to worry about
I wonder if the OP could surround his plug & socket right on the joint with some hot melt. No need to plaster the entire plug/socket with it

 

[rogerthebodger]

Would those products not require permanent installation of the device though?

When leaving the boat I assume the owner wants to disconnect and place monitor below?

Yes these are mainly used for submersible pump insulations to prevent the ingress of water

To allow disconnect in a cockpit setup I used a MIL spec plug and socket