Waterproof Instrument covers.

Neeves

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I'm looking for a water proof instrument cover. Currently it needs to offer view of a 50mm square display protruding about 10mm - but I may want slightly bigger if it works as I'd then 'desire' a cluster of matching covers. The cover needs to have a 'lid' or 'door' as it needs to be accessed to scroll through options - touch screen.

I did a cursory Google search and came up with this:

Y92A Series – Waterproof Covers - Intech Instruments Ltd

But at those prices its a non-starter.

I could make something from acrylic (or have it made) - a sort of acrylic box (with no bottom) with a sprung hinge for the lid (or cover), a gasket and a strong latch - then simply seal it to a bulkhead over the instrument with Sika or another sealant.

It actually seems something to make with a 3D printer - our son has the printer.

If those prices are common place 'I'd' make my own (and encourage my son to commercialise the concept). Bulkhead boxes/covers, for iPads, phones, chargers etc

Jonathan
 

ash2020

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Jonathan, I'd be happy to draw one up for your son to print for a small fee (or maybe he does CAD himself). At the moment it isn't possible to print crystal clear that you could see through, but your window could be done in acrylic and the box printed. PM me if you're interested.
 

Neeves

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Jonathan, I'd be happy to draw one up for your son to print for a small fee (or maybe he does CAD himself). At the moment it isn't possible to print crystal clear that you could see through, but your window could be done in acrylic and the box printed. PM me if you're interested.
Thanks Ash

But like most 'children' that are now adults he could do the design. On of our daughters is a graphic designer, did the CAD drawings for our bridle plate and boomerang. Their father has no idea (in common with many of the same generation).

Jonathan
 

Neeves

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Adding IP68 throws up a lot more options than my simple 'waterproof'

Thanks

I do like the stainless display box but a bit OTT for Australia, the box is worth as much as the instruments - well, sort of. :)

Jonathan
 

bedouin

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How waterproof does it really need to be? Creating a waterproof seal to IP68 that can also be easily/quickly opened does present a few challenges - probably overkill for your application.

Googling e.g. "Clear Hinged Lid IP67" brings up a range of possibilities that you may be able to adapt to your requirement
 

Refueler

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See my 3D print thread .... there are many covers / boxes already out there ....

Modification to have a cut-out for clear panel is easy ...

There is one aspect though .... clear panel. Many modern displays are designed to be non reflective or at least reduced. But introduce a panel over top and you may find the display being hidden behind reflections literally at most useful angles of view.
 

Neeves

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See my 3D print thread .... there are many covers / boxes already out there ....

Modification to have a cut-out for clear panel is easy ...

There is one aspect though .... clear panel. Many modern displays are designed to be non reflective or at least reduced. But introduce a panel over top and you may find the display being hidden behind reflections literally at most useful angles of view.
It was your 3D thread that made me connect 3D to my search. I'll take the instrument with me and take any suitable boxes out into the sun and try them.
How waterproof does it really need to be? Creating a waterproof seal to IP68 that can also be easily/quickly opened does present a few challenges - probably overkill for your application.

Googling e.g. "Clear Hinged Lid IP67" brings up a range of possibilities that you may be able to adapt to your requirement
Just rain, nothing very aggressive.

I was hoping for something with a simple robust closure mechanism - like a Kilner jar (if you old enough to know what I'm talking of :). All marine instruments are meant to be waterproof - but you don't know until you find they are not :(. But I take your point and will extend my search to include IP67. Those plastic click/clack boxes would be suitable - except they are semi opaque.

I did actually think of a Kilner jar - cut the bottom off leaving a glass ring with a robust and simple closure. Simply use a good sealant. After a few moments or more sensible thought I discarded the idea. You can get, but a bit big, glass click/clack closures - but glass is really a daft idea.

Jonathan
 

rogerthebodger

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The main difference between IP67 and IP68 is the latter must not leak at a depth of 1.5 meters for 30 minutes where the former is only 1 meter for 30 minutes

So either should do

I have some CCTV cameras inside an IP67 box with a transparent lip mounted on my mast
 

Refueler

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The main difference between IP67 and IP68 is the latter must not leak at a depth of 1.5 meters for 30 minutes where the former is only 1 meter for 30 minutes

So either should do

I have some CCTV cameras inside an IP67 box with a transparent lip mounted on my mast

But neither cover water hitting / splashing / running over the item .... which is the problem my Garmin 92sv suffers ... its fine when raining or general weather ... but as soon as the water is spilling down the bulkhead and across the screen etc. - it throws its hand in. Its a standard for Static water.

The unit is IP67.

Don't believe me - check out IP67 online.
 

Refueler

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I am fashioning a sun shield to fix over my 92sv - which will help viewing screen .. and also guide water round the unit instead of over the screen as it runs down bulkhead.

But the addition must leave room for the normal cover used when unit is not in use.
 

rogerthebodger

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But neither cover water hitting / splashing / running over the item .... which is the problem my Garmin 92sv suffers ... its fine when raining or general weather ... but as soon as the water is spilling down the bulkhead and across the screen etc. - it throws its hand in. Its a standard for Static water.

The unit is IP67.

Don't believe me - check out IP67 online.
IP_rating_Chart_1_grande.png


Well this is the normal IP rating chart

the water rating of 7 is as shown immersion in 1 meter for 30 minutes.

This chart says rating 8 in immersion in 3 meters for 30 minutes

If i will not stand up to water hitting / splashing / running over the item

To me this is no more than rating 4 or no more the rating 5

My IP67 box didget water inside but I found it was condensation from the box being sealed in a high humanity environment.

I don't doubt any manufactures claims its an independent test that would be needed
 

Refueler

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OK ... so read it ..

IP - that standards
6 = Dust tight
7 = Immersed up to 30mins to max 1 metre

We knew that.

But take Aeropex as example ... rated IP67 ... they state clearly rated for static immersion as stated above - but NOT for swimming ... ie moving water on the item.
 

ylop

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neeves - something like this might be a cheap(er) option: 2 gang socket with waterproof enclosure

I am pretty sure you can get similar without the actual switch inside and either single or double size. Presumably there’s an Aussie version for use near your swimming pool etc that would be cheaper out there?

Or if you just want to keep the worst of the weather off these would be dirt cheap: But obviously aren’t actually waterproof from all directions.
 
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Neeves

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There are lots of boxes with transparent, hinged covers with simple locking mechanisms. Most of them protrude, ylop's 2 gang above is 75mm (and that's common many are much more).

My answer seems to be one as ylop links but cut the back off and then secure the cover with Sika. Then I can attach the display as 'normal' adhere the cover on top giving access with the opening cover and visibility through the transparent cover. Bigger are also common place, as 'domestic fuse boxes' and I'm sure there will be some phone or iPad sized. Cables can still be located within the cover but back through the, or a, bulkhead.

The ideal would be one that can still be attached with long bolts (and then sealed with Sika) even when the back is cut off.

As mentioned many are for domestic electrical work, water proof to rain, like power sockets or fuse boxes - so I'm off to Bunnings in the next few days. Some are described as for electrical 'projects', so I have Jaycar (of sonic anti-fouling fame) on my itinerary. I prefer to look at what is on offer as fixing with bolts and using Sika as the sealant seems my best way forward. I guess caravan/motor home shops would be an option but our nearest is a long, long way away, Jaycar is 5km and a big Bunnings 20km away. I don't know the UK equivalent of Jaycar - they sell electronics for 'projects' - Radio Spares....??? (though no-one builds radios anymore)

IP67 and IP68 (and lower numbers) as 'boxes' seems quite common. As long as the covers are transparent and the door or lid have a good seal using whatever mechanism - I'd prefer the belt and braces approach of IP68 as cost differences are not great. It is inevitable that a bucket of water is inadvertently thrown, a wash down hose misdirected - its a yacht - expect worst case scenarios.


I mention using bigger boxes, iPad/tablet sized, as threads about usage on a yacht are quite common and it may spark off thoughts on how to use safely on deck. It would be nice if they were made shallow, like a 'sort of' waterproof picture frame, but I have not seen anything, 75mm seems the smallest protrusion, as then the back need not be cut off - just use provided holes with rubber grommets.

Thanks for all the suggestions - I might have got there in the end :) - hopefully others find the thread interesting and useful (we all now have a better idea of what IP67 or 68 mean :) ).

Jonathan
 

ylop

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I guess caravan/motor home shops would be an option
Perhaps your ones are very different from ours - but I've been a couple here and they are like a chandlery without the useful stuff!
I don't know the UK equivalent of Jaycar - they sell electronics for 'projects' - Radio Spares....??? (though no-one builds radios anymore)
Not many "consumer" places like that left. Maplin used to be in many towns but they didn't adapt to the internet and there aren't that many people who need to touch and feel stuff before buying. People like RS have trade counters but not great when trying to work out how to cobble something out of nothing.
I mention using bigger boxes, iPad/tablet sized, as threads about usage on a yacht are quite common and it may spark off thoughts on how to use safely on deck. It would be nice if they were made shallow, like a 'sort of' waterproof picture frame, but I have not seen anything, 75mm seems the smallest protrusion, as then the back need not be cut off - just use provided holes with rubber grommets.
Most tablet users will want east access to touch screen so they will either want a soft membrane or something easier to open than a typical IP6x box - perhaps just a simple flap to keep the worst of the weather off and rely on the device's own waterproofing for the splashes etc
 

rogerthebodger

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OK ... so read it ..

IP - that standards
6 = Dust tight
7 = Immersed up to 30mins to max 1 metre

We knew that.

But take Aeropex as example ... rated IP67 ... they state clearly rated for static immersion as stated above - but NOT for swimming ... ie moving water on the item.

They also say for submersion up to 2meters for 2 hours.

They also say waterproof

I would term that misleading advertising.

I one had a watch hat stated "waterproof" the first dine I wend SCUBA diving it got water inside and stopped working.

My dive watch is rated at 300 meters depth
 

Refueler

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Just an idea .... extraploting up from cameras I use on waterplanes / model boats etc.

Clingfilm stretched over and folded gives complete water protection. I've had cameras underwater when models flipped and not a drop got to the camera.
Such could be done with a frame that covers the edges of the film ? Many items still give Touchscreen through clingfilm .....

Just saying. Its what I intend to try on my Garmin 92sv as well as the sun screen I have printed.
 
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