VP 2040 c2001 filler cap neck atop heat exchanger on the move!

[Pyramid]

The filler cap neck, to which you affix the filler cap, pressure release cap, has coroded at the weld - I use that word loosely and now the whole neck is on the move. Clearly this means cooling fluid escapes from the fracture rather than via the filler cap working as it should when the pressure increases and the escape tube. So, as it stands any pressure usually expected within the heat exchanger is released immediately via the fracture.
Now VP say that this is not a repair they undertake and it would mean a new heat exchanger! And for obvious reasons, I don't want to go that route.
But it was suggested that the use of a two part epoxy type - good as metal - material applied carefully should suffice, at least until the engine or heat exchanger does finally give up.
Incidentally the engine continues to run like a dream. But should any pressure build then it needs to be released properly with any resultant coolant ending up in my empty Special R plastic bottle, as it always has. It's never very much and once ejected with the engine findings its natural level, all's well with no overheating issues.
VP that it won't hurt the engine, but, in view of the fact that the engine is equipped with a pressure release cap then clearly I need to do something?
Any recommendations re a suitable two part metal type material.
Si.

 

[PotatoNavigator]

What about this sort of thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evo-Stik-320123-Metal-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B00361819W

 

[VicS]

What about this sort of thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Evo-Stik-320123-Metal-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B00361819W

Similar sort of thing ...... JB weld. Very popular in the US I believe.

A metal filled two part epoxy http://www.jb-weld.co.uk/j-b-weld-epoxy-adhesive/j-b-weld-original-epoxy-adhesive but take a look at some of the other JB weld products


BUT the same topic was discussed on here a few months back A search or two should find what was said then.

 

[pvb]

Some recommendations in this old thread - http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?432904-Volvo-heat-exchanger-problems

 

[VicS]

Similar sort of thing ...... JB weld.
BUT the same topic was discussed on here a few months back A search or two should find what was said then.

Some recommendations in this old thread - http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?432904-Volvo-heat-exchanger-problems

Thats the one!

 

[vyv_cox]

I assume it is aluminium? Most radiators are aluminium these days, with the core attached to the headers using epoxy adhesives. There seem to be dozens of products aimed at repairing leaks in radiators so I would assume they would do your job. The secret to this kind of job is absolute cleanliness, which will involve removing the filler cap neck, cleaning everything up superbly well, then gluing it all back together. A botched job will not bring success!

 

[Ilduceglider]

We have just had this exact problem today with our VP 2040, the filler neck came off in my hand. Was wondering if Pyramid had success using epoxy putty? There is limited room so the next step will be removing the heat exchanger. If anyone else gets caught we made an emergency radiator cap to fit the hole with a tapered plug, some wadding with lots of tape. This was rammed in the hole and lashed down with some VB cord. Not pretty but did the job.
Cheers Peter

 

[PaulRainbow]

If properly cleaned and keyed, as Vyv said, this stuff will definitely fix it : http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802657107969. I have used it many times in much more stressful coolant installations and it has never failed.

 

[Pyramid]

Ilduceglider
As it happens I had very little success with the epoxy resin putty approach. As you are aware the radiator cap sits atop of a neck, within a resessed section of the heat exchanger casing.
This area proved impossible - I found - to achieve the requisite cleanliness alluded to above to ensure adequate success with the epoxy putty. With a number of attempts where all looked good but eventually failure.
In the end I took a mechanical approach: a new 'neck' was machined and welded to a flange where the aperature matched the aperature atop the heat exchanger. The flange drilled at six points around the circumference of the flange. The wheat exchanger casing was then drilled and tapped accordingly to receive suitable bolts attaching the whole assembly, utilising a descent gasket between the flange and the housing. Compressing ensured a 100% seal. A new radiator cap top up of coolant and 'bob's your uncle' Should have gone straight to this proper remedy first rather than trying the epoxy putty route. A solid good neat job that archieved exactly what was required.
Proof was in a good summer of sailing and motoring without any issues and no leaks. Hope this helps.
Simon - Pyramid

 

[Heckler]

Ilduceglider
As it happens I had very little success with the epoxy resin putty approach. As you are aware the radiator cap sits atop of a neck, within a resessed section of the heat exchanger casing.
This area proved impossible - I found - to achieve the requisite cleanliness alluded to above to ensure adequate success with the epoxy putty. With a number of attempts where all looked good but eventually failure.
In the end I took a mechanical approach: a new 'neck' was machined and welded to a flange where the aperature matched the aperature atop the heat exchanger. The flange drilled at six points around the circumference of the flange. The wheat exchanger casing was then drilled and tapped accordingly to receive suitable bolts attaching the whole assembly, utilising a descent gasket between the flange and the housing. Compressing ensured a 100% seal. A new radiator cap top up of coolant and 'bob's your uncle' Should have gone straight to this proper remedy first rather than trying the epoxy putty route. A solid good neat job that archieved exactly what was required.
Proof was in a good summer of sailing and motoring without any issues and no leaks. Hope this helps.
Simon - Pyramid

This essentially is what my neighbour in Portugal did. Found a radiator repairer, most rads are ally nowadays. They stock cap necks, he welded this to a flat piece of ally and then welded That to the HE. Proper job
Stu

 

[Carduelis]

On my round GB trip last year I had problems with a leaky rad cap. I replaced it with a similar one from a motor factors as that was all that readily available. It works fine but is a very tight fit - almost impossible to undo after it has been on a while. I'm concerned that the filler neck join may not stand the strain as I know this is a common problem on the VP2040. The part cost £7. I've looked for the 'official' part (which costs £70!) but I'm slightly reluctant to buy as I suspect it will be identical to the automotive part.

Has anyone with this engine coughed up for the VP part, and if so did it fit properly?

 

[macd]

This essentially is what my neighbour in Portugal did. Found a radiator repairer, most rads are ally nowadays. They stock cap necks, he welded this to a flat piece of ally and then welded That to the HE. Proper job
Stu

+1.
Proper job, exactly.
Epoxy putty etc is just a get-you-home fix. Certainly worth having aboard, but...
(Inevitably, ever since a radiator repairer became a near-neighbour, I've never had a problem with one.)

 

[Martin_J]

My MD2040 is still on the original unmodified filler cap neck, but is on the list for some TLC these coming months.

An interesting thread.. and the idea of a bolt on header cap sounds perfect...

How's about this ready made Aluminium_filler_neck_with_flange

I can't take the credit for this.. A quick search showed it on the Canalworld forum..
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57975

I'm a little too busy at the moment to check if this flange will cover any cracks that may appear between the heat exchanger cover and the original fitting, but it looks like it's something in the right direction (and off the shelf).

 

[Heckler]

My MD2040 is still on the original unmodified filler cap neck, but is on the list for some TLC these coming months.

An interesting thread.. and the idea of a bolt on header cap sounds perfect...

How's about this ready made Aluminium_filler_neck_with_flange

I can't take the credit for this.. A quick search showed it on the Canalworld forum..
http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57975

I'm a little too busy at the moment to check if this flange will cover any cracks that may appear between the heat exchanger cover and the original fitting, but it looks like it's something in the right direction (and off the shelf).

Whoo! even better, I do like that! Either drill and tap or bolt on. One for the spares box I reckon!
Stu

 

[Ilduceglider]

Thanks Guys for all your assistance. I have ordered the aluminium neck assembly from Thermex and will fit it asap. Be warned the postage to Oz was twice the unit cost! Off to the plumbing suppliers to find a suitable gasket.

Cheers Peter

 

[philwebb]

If you can't find a gasket at the plumbers merchant you can get sheets of gasket material from a good motor factor. Just cut it to size.

 

[Ilduceglider]

Just to finish this thread, we installed the Thermex neck assembly. This involved tapping 2 x 6 mm threads then making suitable paper gaskets to fill the moat around the original neck. It took 3 paper circular gaskets to bring the level up to the top of the heat exchanger. Another paper gasket was cut to fit the new neck assembly, each layer was liberally smeared with Loctite 596 Hi-Temp Red RTV Silicone gasket maker and allowed to dry. A new radiator cap was fitted - sadly this leaked making us doubt the complete repair. We ascertained the new cap was leaking and refitted the original and success. Please be aware the original cap has 2 rubber mating gaskets and the replacement only one. The system is now determining its own level and overflowing a decreasing amount.

Thanks to all for your assistance
Cheers Peter