Volvo Penta TMD22 Advice Please

[BotleyBuoy]

I looking at a boat fitted with a TMD22 but the current owner has no idea when the timing belt was last changed. VP recommend the belt is changed every three years so this job wold need doing before the boat was used. Is changing this belt DIY job and are any special tools required eg to lock the cam/pump/crank in place? Any other advice on this engine would be most welcome.
Many thanks in advance.

 

[Tranona]

The forum guru on MD22 engines is skipper stu. He wrote a detailed article on changing the belt in PBO a couple of years ago. He may pick your post up, but worth sending him a pm.

 

[VicS]

The forum guru on MD22 engines is skipper stu. He wrote a detailed article on changing the belt in PBO a couple of years ago. He may pick your post up, but worth sending him a pm.

April 2010 ...... time flies!

Also see the workshop manual on line at https://www.manualslib.com/manual/840880/Volvo-Penta-Md22.html#manual

 

[BotleyBuoy]

Thanks for the link. I've read the instructions on p58 and it process seems straightforward enough (subject to access!). The "special tools" 885037 listed at the top of the page appear to be the adjustment drifts for the camshaft
and the flywheel and there's two bolts which lock the fuel pump pulley in place. Is that it? Can the adjustment drifts be bought from a VP dealer?
I'll send a message to "skipper stu".
Thanks for your help.

 

[NormanS]

It is a DIY job. I also have an MD22, but not the turbo model, and renewed my timing belt and pulley idlers without any bother. IIRC the locking pins for flywheel and camshaft, are merely 6mm bolts pushed in.
You would be well advised to renew the coolant circulating pump at the same time.

 

[Bobc]

Easy job. I've done it twice on my boat, and once on someone else's.

If the boat is around the Solent area, I can lend you the drifts and a dti to time the pump.

 

[BotleyBuoy]

Thanks for the tips and for the loan offer but I'm afraid it will be on the Upper Thames if I buy it.

When you mention the "coolant circulating pump" do you mean the unit pump which circulates coolant around the engine or the unit which pumps river-water through the heat-exchanger? I assume you mean the former because that's on the same belt so just checking to be sure.

 

[Bobc]

If you do buy it, let me know and I'll help you do it if you like (I work in Maidenhead). You might have to buy me a pint though.

 

[Bobc]

Thanks for the tips and for the loan offer but I'm afraid it will be on the Upper Thames if I buy it.

When you mention the "coolant circulating pump" do you mean the unit pump which circulates coolant around the engine or the unit which pumps river-water through the heat-exchanger? I assume you mean the former because that's on the same belt so just checking to be sure.

He means the coolant pump on the front of the engine. I persoanlly wouldn't bother replacing that until you need to. It's not a service item.

 

[BotleyBuoy]

Consider it done! You're a gentleman. There's a VP dealer at Bourne End so parts should be easily obtainable.

 

[Bobc]

Consider it done! You're a gentleman. There's a VP dealer at Bourne End so parts should be easily obtainable.

Yes, they're very good too. I use them for any bits I need. You'll want to get the 2 bearings aswell as the belt though, and I think that parts4engines is cheaper that the VP dealer.

 

[Yngmar]

These are the instructions you are looking for: http://jeanneau.tripod.com/hintsandtips/id118.htm

About to do it myself. Got a new water pump (car version, like the above) too, and a pack of 6.5mm drill bits to lock things. Renew the alternator belt while you're at it, needs to come off anyways.

 

[Bobc]

These are the instructions you are looking for: http://jeanneau.tripod.com/hintsandtips/id118.htm

About to do it myself. Got a new water pump (car version, like the above) too, and a pack of 6.5mm drill bits to lock things. Renew the alternator belt while you're at it, needs to come off anyways.

I wrote a similar article on this for this year's BOA yearbook. Be careful of the cheap patterned water pumps, they don't last.

 

[Yngmar]

I wrote a similar article on this for this year's BOA yearbook. Be careful of the cheap patterned water pumps, they don't last.

Interesting. Got a link or is it print only? What breaks, the pump seems to be a very simple affair, do the seals wear and leak? That'd be annoying, given it's behind the timing belt housing. I've checked, got mine from parts4engines and it is the car version with a grub screw blocking the unused hose connection.

 

[Bobc]

Interesting. Got a link or is it print only? What breaks, the pump seems to be a very simple affair, do the seals wear and leak? That'd be annoying, given it's behind the timing belt housing. I've checked, got mine from parts4engines and it is the car version with a grub screw blocking the unused hose connection.

It's on the website for download to members. The pumps from parts4engines are good quality. Some of the cheap chinese patterned ones are rubbish.

The main head seal on the injector pump can leak (if you find diesel on the block and starter solenoid, that'll be where it's coming from). You can buy repair kits and replace this seal, but when you take the pump head off, you have to make sure you catch all the tiny bits. Otherwise it's a pretty bullet-proof engine (other than the cylinder head that's made of cream cheese, so make sure you keep your coolant clean and fresh).

 

[BotleyBuoy]

Gentlemen, many thanks indeed to you all for your input in this. I now feel a lot more confident about the engine and knowing I can pop into my local old school motor factors for things like oil & fuel filters etc means it can be maintained at a sensible cost.
If I buy the boat I'll be back on this topic for more support.
Thanks again.

 

[NormanS]

Yes, I mean the circulating pump for the coolant, not the salt water pump. Mine failed catastrophically, and dumped all the coolant into the bottom of the boat, at the back of beyond a few years ago. (Actually W of the Outer Hebrides).

After that episode, several people said it was common practice to change the pump when renewing the timing belt, when it's all opened up anyway. It seems a crazy design to have to dismantle all the timing gear just to get to the pump, but that's the way it is.

 

[BotleyBuoy]

I looked up the timing belt kit on Eurocarparts. https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/...2fe9db4700a188d4550d9f0b9b2d1fd24c9bab&000332 It doesn't actually say what the kit comprises but for that money I'd expect the coolant pump to be included. I can't help thinking that buying the components separately might work out cheaper as per the post above. I suppose you just have to hope the bolts come out of the block easily enough otherwise it's another can of worms.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I looked up the timing belt kit on Eurocarparts. https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/...2fe9db4700a188d4550d9f0b9b2d1fd24c9bab&000332 It doesn't actually say what the kit comprises but for that money I'd expect the coolant pump to be included. I can't help thinking that buying the components separately might work out cheaper as per the post above. I suppose you just have to hope the bolts come out of the block easily enough otherwise it's another can of worms.

That's a stupid price and it won't include the pump. For a more sensible price try here : https://www.parts4engines.com

 

[BotleyBuoy]

Much more sensible! £24.75 for the belt including the tensioner and idler is more like it. £140 for a water pump seems a bit on the high side though and so I wondered what the comparable Perkins part would be. It's £139 (https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/...2fe9db4700a188d4550d9f0b9b2d1fd24c9bab&000332). So how much would a Montego/Maestro/DAF van part would be? Does anyone know what the Leyland/DAF part number might be and I can ask my local motor factor?