Volvo Penta KAD300 oil change

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tonci

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Helo to the comunity!!
I am new here, Croatia based, in love with boats and sea. English is not my primary language, so I hope you'll bear with me.. :)
Hope to get some advice, from you guys.

So, I would like to change oil in volvo penta kad300 engines and I need some advice ...
I don't have data about oil capacity for these engines, so I can buy prefered amount.? And which kind of oil should i buy? And of course, if you have any other advice, concerning oil change, feel free to note.

Also, where are sacrifice anodes located, on the engine? I would like to check them out..

Thanks!
 
Warm the engines up 1st .
The oil is removed from the filler tube .
Best way I found was with a Pela vac pump , they do a large 10/12 L version .
Most I ever got out was around 9L .From memory I think capacity supposed to be 12 L ??
Any diesel marina oil 15/40 that’s volvo spec see the label .
There’s no anodes on the engine they are all on the outside on the leg and transom shied , quite a few scattered about .
You can change the oil with the boat in the water , but the anodes are best done with the boat out in the yard .
The drive oil needs changing each year and the two bellows every two years + a proper service .
When I had one ( same as you if outdrive ) I passed the leg maintenance to professionals .

There’s plenty of online info .
 
Oil as hot as possible, preferably up to normal operating temps.
You do not have to use Volvo branded anything.
Any good quality branded oil with V4 in the spec is suitable and a good choice of quality aftermarket oil/fuel filters available.

Use one of these and put used oil directly into old empty oil drum.No messing transferring filthy oil from a pump action manual vacuum pump into another container.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60W-Tran...=1124768914699f81ac1e7f664b86b6d52dfc8d11ad9f
 
Thank you very much, for your reply!

I tried to search forum, for oil capacity info, but had no luck. I guess, i need to find service manual.. Do you know maybe, where i could find one??
Kashurst from this forum, was very nice to me and provided me with workshop manual, but i couldn't find any info in it, on service intervals and such data. It is more like a manual for engine refurbishment.
I have one more question about the oil... Do i use mineral oil 15w40, or synth/semisynth?

Yes, the boat is on dry, on trailer and outdrives are planed to be serviced aswell..
Thank you once more, for your reply!
 
There are various suction pumps,Pela being a branded example.It is a very small tube that goes down the dipstick hole, down to the sump.Unfortunately, gunk can block or limit the tube,so it can be very very very slow. About 10 to 11 litres should come out.Oil needs to be really warmed or it is so thick the process is even slower.Like 45 mins slow.
Once done, put a plastic bag over the oil filter and unscrew it. It will still be full of oil,note.
Remember to start the engine for a moment before final dipstick check,so the new oil filter is refilled.
You can get some special oil absorbing sheets that are quite handy
in minimising any spillage.
It is cheaper to buy the oil in 20litre drum, and you will probably need a little more,but it is not easy to poor that into the engine,so alot of people will use the 5 litre bottles as at least you can pour it in!
Remember you need something to put the old oil in unless your pump is so big it holds 11 litres.
Can be an annoyingly slow job!
 
Dobrodošao u YBW :)

VDS-3 is a more up to date spec for the oil.
There are various choices - Volvo oil, Shell Rimula, Mobil Devlac etc.
I use the Volvo oil.

Change the oil filter at the same time.
Filter wrench to remove, a little oil around the filter base then re-fit hand tight.
Check oil level and for any leaks after first run and top up / tighten if needed.

Get one of these, or something similar to extract the oil, having warmed up the engine.
Pump a few times, drink tea or coffee or beer, read the boat magazine, and all the oil comes out.

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Last edited:
Hi,

You are new to the KAD300 I understand. Be aware .... tappets must be checked every 200 hours. Very important or it can be costly. Very solid engine when well serviced. Happy boating.
 
gjgm said:
There are various suction pumps,Pela being a branded example.It is a very small tube that goes down the dipstick hole, down to the sump.Unfortunately, gunk can block or limit the tube,so it can be very very very slow. About 10 to 11 litres should come out.Oil needs to be really warmed or it is so thick the process is even slower.Like 45 mins slow.
Once done, put a plastic bag over the oil filter and unscrew it. It will still be full of oil,note.
Remember to start the engine for a moment before final dipstick check,so the new oil filter is refilled.
You can get some special oil absorbing sheets that are quite handy
in minimising any spillage.
It is cheaper to buy the oil in 20litre drum, and you will probably need a little more,but it is not easy to poor that into the engine,so alot of people will use the 5 litre bottles as at least you can pour it in!
Remember you need something to put the old oil in unless your pump is so big it holds 11 litres.
Can be an annoyingly slow job!
Click to expand...

Thank you for advices! :encouragement:
 
FlowerPower said:
Dobrodošao u YBW :)

VDS-3 is a more up to date spec for the oil.
There are various choices - Volvo oil, Shell Rimula, Mobil Devlac etc.
I use the Volvo oil.

Change the oil filter at the same time.
Filter wrench to remove, a little oil around the filter base then re-fit hand tight.
Check oil level and for any leaks after first run and top up / tighten if needed.

Get one of these, or something similar to extract the oil, having warmed up the engine.
Pump a few times, drink tea or coffee or beer, read the boat magazine, and all the oil comes out.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! :)
I'll definitely get some sort of pump!
 
About Time said:
Hi,

You are new to the KAD300 I understand. Be aware .... tappets must be checked every 200 hours. Very important or it can be costly. Very solid engine when well serviced. Happy boating.
Click to expand...

Tappets?! English is not my primary language. Do you mean those elements on valve, push rods?
 
Hi Tonci

below is a link to an archived page from this forum kindly created by Spannerman of this forum.
the kad 44/300 engines have 4 valves per cylinder linked by a bridge piece that slides up and down on a metal rod. It is very important that the bridge is kept carefully adjusted @ 200 hours and the tappet clearance adjusted afterwards (the common adjustment screw found on the rocker arms where they contact the valve push rods).
If the adjustment is not done, the metal rod can snap resulting in a lot of bad things happening.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-115129.html

it's probably not a beginners job, but if you have done engine tappets before and you are happy taking the fuel injection pipes off, reassembling, bleeding etc, you should be OK.
by coincidence I am doing mine tomorrow. Fingers crossed it goes smoothly.
 
kashurst said:
Hi Tonci

below is a link to an archived page from this forum kindly created by Spannerman of this forum.
the kad 44/300 engines have 4 valves per cylinder linked by a bridge piece that slides up and down on a metal rod. It is very important that the bridge is kept carefully adjusted @ 200 hours and the tappet clearance adjusted afterwards (the common adjustment screw found on the rocker arms where they contact the valve push rods).
If the adjustment is not done, the metal rod can snap resulting in a lot of bad things happening.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-115129.html

it's probably not a beginners job, but if you have done engine tappets before and you are happy taking the fuel injection pipes off, reassembling, bleeding etc, you should be OK.
by coincidence I am doing mine tomorrow. Fingers crossed it goes smoothly.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!!
I'll check the archived page.. Yes i've done similar things in the past, i do have some experience.
I hope everything went well,
with your adjustment!! :)
 
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