Volvo penta 2003t water map

[Captaincape]

Just picked up a bit more engine than I need but I'm going to try and shoe horn it in. Price seemed good and it's in good shape.
The water lines were disconnected for shipping and I'm not sure the map to reconnect.
I'm going to bench test the engine before attempting install.
It's the 2003t and I think I see most of the connections but unsure about the u shaped piping which appears to have a vent. It appears to connect to where the two cut lines are.the itAnd the three fittings one from fresh water pump and one on side of block below starter and one in block slightly above and behind fresh water pump.

 

[Pete7]

The last one above the starter motor is the drain for the block. Sorry can't answer the others as our 2003 is raw water cooled.

 

[Cardinal]

I‘ll try to take a look tomorrow and report back.

 

[scottie]

These engines don’t like not being used I believe that VP lost lost a good customer after being told words like ignore the extra power from the turbo unless you really need it or words to that effect
it’s likely to be past its best by now anyway

 

[VicS]

Just picked up a bit more engine than I need but I'm going to try and shoe horn it in. Price seemed good and it's in good shape.
The water lines were disconnected for shipping and I'm not sure the map to reconnect.
I'm going to bench test the engine before attempting install.
It's the 2003t and I think I see most of the connections but unsure about the u shaped piping which appears to have a vent. It appears to connect to where the two cut lines are.the itAnd the three fittings one from fresh water pump and one on side of block below starter and one in block slightly above and behind fresh water pump.

The U shaped piping, and vacuum valve, in the first photo is the anti syphon loop and valve. It should be between the pump and the oil cooler and heat excahnger with the valve mounted well above the waterline level. Are they the two cut hoses ringed in the same photo ?

The small hose from the expansion tank should be connected to the brass fitting on the front of the thermostat housing

The connection on the coolant pump suction with no hose fitted is either for the connection from the HE or the connection on the bottom of the expansion tank.

I dont know what the one above it is

The diagrams in the parts list will help you figure it all out but there are differences in the detail between different versions and the exact HE fitted

Volvo Penta parts and accessories - MarinePartsEurope.com

Google will find a workshop manual but AFAICS there is no useful diagram for the turbocharged engine.

 

[Tranona]

Just picked up a bit more engine than I need but I'm going to try and shoe horn it in. Price seemed good and it's in good shape.
The water lines were disconnected for shipping and I'm not sure the map to reconnect.
I'm going to bench test the engine before attempting install.
It's the 2003t and I think I see most of the connections but unsure about the u shaped piping which appears to have a vent. It appears to connect to where the two cut lines are.the itAnd the three fittings one from fresh water pump and one on side of block below starter and one in block slightly above and behind fresh water pump.

Can only support post#4. Fitting an oversized engine is generally not a "good thing" and particularly that engine which even when installed in boats that need the power is problematic. What boat is it and what is it replacing?

The plumbing is quite straightforward as post#5 suggests. Sewater comes into the bottom of the pump, out of the top through the loop above the waterline with the anti syphon valve and then to the oil cooler and heat exchanger

 

[AntarcticPilot]

On the other engines in the 200X range, the pipes will only fit one way, and are a close fit. A minor tip - ensure the pipes are well seated on their rubber seals before tightening the securing yokes. Using the yokes to push the pipe into the seal usually results in a leaky joint.

 

[Stemar]

You may find this useful

https://avdhoeff.home.xs4all.nl/zei...enta-Type_2001-2002-2003T_Workshop-Manual.pdf

 

[Captaincape]

Can only support post#4. Fitting an oversized engine is generally not a "good thing" and particularly that engine which even when installed in boats that need the power is problematic. What boat is it and what is it replacing?

The plumbing is quite straightforward as post#5 suggests. Sewater comes into the bottom of the pump, out of the top through the loop above the waterline with the anti syphon valve and then to the oil cooler and heat exchanger

It's a Cape Dory 28, replacing the Faryman A30 which wasn't salvageable.
I'm commented to installing this Volvo now, may have been a bad choice now that I hear all the cons but I can fit it in and see how it goes. First going to bench run it in the shop for a bit to check everything out. It is a low hours engine which I've. Noticed no evidence of leaks except a slight leak where the sea water line connects to the oil cooler.

 

[Captaincape]

I‘ll try to take a look tomorrow and report back.

Thanks!

 

[Captaincape]

The U shaped piping, and vacuum valve, in the first photo is the anti syphon loop and valve. It should be between the pump and the oil cooler and heat excahnger with the valve mounted well above the waterline level. Are they the two cut hoses ringed in the same photo ?

The small hose from the expansion tank should be connected to the brass fitting on the front of the thermostat housing

The connection on the coolant pump suction with no hose fitted is either for the connection from the HE or the connection on the bottom of the expansion tank.

I dont know what the one above it is

The diagrams in the parts list will help you figure it all out but there are differences in the detail between different versions and the exact HE fitted

Volvo Penta parts and accessories - MarinePartsEurope.com

Google will find a workshop manual but AFAICS there is no useful diagram for the turbocharged engine.

Thanks, I'm down to two I'm unsure of, the second picture.

The U shaped piping, and vacuum valve, in the first photo is the anti syphon loop and valve. It should be between the pump and the oil cooler and heat excahnger with the valve mounted well above the waterline level. Are they the two cut hoses ringed in the same photo ?

The small hose from the expansion tank should be connected to the brass fitting on the front of the thermostat housing

The connection on the coolant pump suction with no hose fitted is either for the connection from the HE or the connection on the bottom of the expansion tank.

I dont know what the one above it is

The diagrams in the parts list will help you figure it all out but there are differences in the detail between different versions and the exact HE fitted

Volvo Penta parts and accessories - MarinePartsEurope.com

Google will find a workshop manual but AFAICS there is no useful diagram for the turbocharged engine.

Thanks! I'm down to two I'm not sure about. There are two that could be attached to the fresh water pump suction exp tank. I think I've seen where the straight one goes to the exp tank.
The other one on the block and the one T'ing off are the final two to figure out.
Posting another picture

 

[scottie]

Please dont do It
there are several reasons not to and because i have it ready to go does not override them
is there room for the size of propellor you will require to absorb its power and is your existing shaft adequate and exhaust system capable of coping.
you will most likely end up butchering your boat to prove your point far better to get an engine more suitable

 

[Stemar]

Please dont do It
there are several reasons not to and because i have it ready to go does not override them
is there room for the size of propellor you will require to absorb its power and is your existing shaft adequate and exhaust system capable of coping.
you will most likely end up butchering your boat to prove your point far better to get an engine more suitable

I did - I fitted a 2003 into a Snapdragon 24, replacing an MD1. I didn't need a shoehorn, but I did need an angle grinder and a good bit of carpentry to fill in the hole. The prop shaft (25mm) was fine, but the egg-whisk prop had to go, and the flexible coupling, designed for 8HP took early retirement not long after. The whole 2003 installation, including a dedicated engine battery, weighed less than the MD1.

The engine served us well for more than 15 years, and was still going strong when we sold the boat. It was great knowing we could punch a spring ebb coming into Portsmouth, but a Snappy doing 7 knots through the water did surprise a few other boats

 

[scottie]

I did - I fitted a 2003 into a Snapdragon 24, replacing an MD1. I didn't need a shoehorn, but I did need an angle grinder and a good bit of carpentry to fill in the hole. The prop shaft (25mm) was fine, but the egg-whisk prop had to go, and the flexible coupling, designed for 8HP took early retirement not long after. The whole 2003 installation, including a dedicated engine battery, weighed less than the MD1.

The engine served us well for more than 15 years, and was still going strong when we sold the boat. It was great knowing we could punch a spring ebb coming into Portsmouth, but a Snappy doing 7 knots through the water did surprise a few other boats

But your engine was not turbocharged ,

 

[Captaincape]

But your engine was not turbocharged ,

What's the concern over the turbo?
I have had a turbo in every piece of equipment I've owned. Turbo is more efficient. Just curious?

 

[Captaincape]

Please dont do It
there are several reasons not to and because i have it ready to go does not override them
is there room for the size of propellor you will require to absorb its power and is your existing shaft adequate and exhaust system capable of coping.
you will most likely end up butchering your boat to prove your point far better to get an engine more suitable

As I understand it,
The pitch angle of the prop is matched to the engine,
Exhaust, what's the problem you foresee?
Turbo exhaust runs cooler. In fact since this turbo also has a water cooler I don't see any issues with heat at all.
Butcher it for the exhaust, what you thinking, I'm gonna put a 6" pipe out the back?

 

[Captaincape]

I did - I fitted a 2003 into a Snapdragon 24, replacing an MD1. I didn't need a shoehorn, but I did need an angle grinder and a good bit of carpentry to fill in the hole. The prop shaft (25mm) was fine, but the egg-whisk prop had to go, and the flexible coupling, designed for 8HP took early retirement not long after. The whole 2003 installation, including a dedicated engine battery, weighed less than the MD1.

The engine served us well for more than 15 years, and was still going strong when we sold the boat. It was great knowing we could punch a spring ebb coming into Portsmouth, but a Snappy doing 7 knots through the water did surprise a few other boats

The dimensions look like it will fit nicely,
I may have to shave the mount platform a bit, but I've read that's required with pretty much any new engine I would chose. I do foresee a bit of carpentry and glass fabrication but not a whole lot.
Thanks for the post!

 

[Tranona]

What's the concern over the turbo?
I have had a turbo in every piece of equipment I've owned. Turbo is more efficient. Just curious?

You will rarely run the trubo under load. As suggested to work properly you will have to fit a much bigger propeller and a 30mm (1 1/4) shaft to absorb the power. The leak around the oil cooler needs attention. The two big problems with this engine are the oil cooler as it is aluminium and corrodes which is enough economically to write off the engine and the turbo which bungs up from lack of use. The engine was a stop gap for Volvo to fill a hole in their range at the time and aimed at boats that required around 45hp such as the HR 352 which displace 6 tonnes+ whereas yours only displaces 4 tonnes and will get hull speed with 25hp. The ideal engine would be a Beta 25 but these are rare as used engines so the most obvious to look for is either the Volvo 2003 on which the T is based, the later and far superior 2030, or a Yanmar 3GM. There are of course lots of other 25-30hp engines, but not often available used at modest prices

The really is a poor choice and the boat deserves a "proper" engine. Apart from its unsuitability it was a poor design when new, has been out of production for nearly 40 years and spares are expensive and getting scarce.

 

[Pete7]

Are you in the UK? I would be having a chat with Sean at Marine enterprises in Dorchester to see what sort of deal he can do for you px for something more appropriate as outlined by Tranona. Boat Sales in Dorchester | Marine Enterprises Ltd |

 

[Captaincape]

I ain't made of money, why don't y'all buy a wooden dingy, canoe, or paddle board from me and I could afford something. At this juncture I will be going ahead as planned and when/if it craps out I'll do something different.
Or, take the bits and pistons out of the parts 2003 I have and make it non turbo.