Volvo MD2010 Heat Exchanger
- Thread starter HappyHurley
- Start date
Tranona
Well-known member
That is a weak spot on Volvos. It has obviously leaked there at some point and it would be wise to drain the system and remove the boot, and probably the exhaust elbow because they choke up and corrode over time. This will allow inspection of the tube stack (you can get at it from the front as well). when the elbow is off check that the face with the Heat exchanger is sound as corrosion there can be expensive to fix. Worth replacing the elbow with a stainless one. The other thing to check with this series engine is the seawater pump as it is a bit of a pig to remove for overhaul - not that it is especially prone to failure.
Otherwise a very sound engine, but does like working hard rather than the typical run for a few minutes at low load and then sail!
Otherwise a very sound engine, but does like working hard rather than the typical run for a few minutes at low load and then sail!
peteK
Well-known member
The engine is not as bad as some I have seen on here,difficult to say just looking at the picture but may be only surface rust,the engines are based on the Perkins and are generally reliable but it comes down to how much their asking for the boat and wouldnt dismiss it if your happy with the rest of the condition.
HappyHurley
Member
Thank you @Tranona & @peteK
She's lain afloat unused for the last couple of seasons and is generally neglected [antifouling peeling to the bare hull, sails still bent on and grime covered etc]. Beneath the dirt is a modern pocket cruiser that would sail well.
It's really the potential for massive engine bills holding me back.
Here's a more encompassing view. Witness the state of the starboard side engine mount.
She's lain afloat unused for the last couple of seasons and is generally neglected [antifouling peeling to the bare hull, sails still bent on and grime covered etc]. Beneath the dirt is a modern pocket cruiser that would sail well.
It's really the potential for massive engine bills holding me back.
Here's a more encompassing view. Witness the state of the starboard side engine mount.
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peteK
Well-known member
New engine mounts can be had for around £25,if the engine starts and runs ok I wouldnt worry,I would be more concerned about the cost of new sails if required.
HappyHurley
Member
Thanks @peteK.
Running up the engine is unlikely, as she's now ashore and the batteries are dead. Hence the questions. As this would be my first inboard powered boat.
Finally, any thoughts on the gloop in the expansion tank ?
The coolant is green...
Running up the engine is unlikely, as she's now ashore and the batteries are dead. Hence the questions. As this would be my first inboard powered boat.
Finally, any thoughts on the gloop in the expansion tank ?
The coolant is green...
Attachments
Daydream believer
Well-known member
The rubber bellows to the heat exchanger look as though they are swollen. That suggests a back pressure has formed due to the exhaust elbow being blocked. It would only take 15 minutes to remove the one over the elbow & look into the top to see if the hole is actually blocked or not. If is then a new elbow will take you 45-60 minutes to change if you have some decent spanners.
The heat exchanger is not difficult to clean once the cassette of pipes has been slid out. This is easy to do . Forumites here will advise on various cleaners or methods. Mine is still virtually spotless after 17 years.
The rusting around the filler cap seems cosmetic & on an old engine should not be unexpected
The engine mounts do tend to rust quite quickly but provided the actual metal is sound they will be OK for a while. I note above that a price of £25-00 is quoted, I want 4 for my Beta & so far the cheapest I have found is £45-00 so I would suggest that you ask PeteK for the source of his at £ 25-00. To change them is not difficult. Rather one of access & cleaning the threads first so the nuts come off easier. Probably a 3 hour job with some blocks of wood & a nail bar to ease the engine up if it is a saildrive . A bit longer if the prop shaft has to be disconnected- Then it can be a b..ger of a job.
I expect that one issue would be the state of flexible pipes. There might be some weeping & some dodgy jubilee clips. In addition the fuel lines might need checking, filters should be changed & some air leaks will be found. Then you will certainly need an oil change & fresh water flush out. You will probably need a new impeller.
Wiring to the alternator & control panel could be a bit corroded. That can be an issue if a wire drops off just after you start running & vibration flips a wire & you cannot find where it comes from. Check them first & take decent clear photos of the wiring connections for future reference
The whole lot could be sorted in a couple of weekends by someone with the right tools & the drive to get on with it. Then you should have a nice little inboard.
Where the trouble starts is inside the engine that no one can see. Only running it will actually tell you the answer to that one.
The heat exchanger is not difficult to clean once the cassette of pipes has been slid out. This is easy to do . Forumites here will advise on various cleaners or methods. Mine is still virtually spotless after 17 years.
The rusting around the filler cap seems cosmetic & on an old engine should not be unexpected
The engine mounts do tend to rust quite quickly but provided the actual metal is sound they will be OK for a while. I note above that a price of £25-00 is quoted, I want 4 for my Beta & so far the cheapest I have found is £45-00 so I would suggest that you ask PeteK for the source of his at £ 25-00. To change them is not difficult. Rather one of access & cleaning the threads first so the nuts come off easier. Probably a 3 hour job with some blocks of wood & a nail bar to ease the engine up if it is a saildrive . A bit longer if the prop shaft has to be disconnected- Then it can be a b..ger of a job.
I expect that one issue would be the state of flexible pipes. There might be some weeping & some dodgy jubilee clips. In addition the fuel lines might need checking, filters should be changed & some air leaks will be found. Then you will certainly need an oil change & fresh water flush out. You will probably need a new impeller.
Wiring to the alternator & control panel could be a bit corroded. That can be an issue if a wire drops off just after you start running & vibration flips a wire & you cannot find where it comes from. Check them first & take decent clear photos of the wiring connections for future reference
The whole lot could be sorted in a couple of weekends by someone with the right tools & the drive to get on with it. Then you should have a nice little inboard.
Where the trouble starts is inside the engine that no one can see. Only running it will actually tell you the answer to that one.
Last edited:
garymalmgren
Active member
Hi Happy Hurley
You are asking about the engine with concern to external appearance.
There are plenty of ratty looking engines that run fine.
And there are good looking engines that are dead inside.
The only way to tell if ANY engine is in good condition is to RUN IT,
And it can be done quite easily on the hard.
This is a simple check list in order of priority.
1, Does it start easily.
2. Is it unusually noisy.
3. Does it have good oil pressure
4, Does it blow a lot of smoke after running for 10 minutes.
5, Does the alternator charge.
6, Does the water pump pick up and discharge enough water.
7, Is it leaking oil, fuel or coolant.
8. Does it engage forward and reverse.
Then AFTER you have checked those basics, stop the engine.
1. How are all of the hoses.
2. How is the pump.
3, How are the engine mounts.
4. How is the shaft coupling.
5, Does it have a good water inlet filter
6. Does it have a good oil filter.
Of course there are others, but that is the very least to check.
Then make you decision.
To start the engine you will need a fully charged battery and a good set of jumper leads.
A source of cooling water
Check engine and gearbox oil before starting.
Clean fuel. and a bit of fiddling around.
You are asking about the engine with concern to external appearance.
There are plenty of ratty looking engines that run fine.
And there are good looking engines that are dead inside.
The only way to tell if ANY engine is in good condition is to RUN IT,
And it can be done quite easily on the hard.
This is a simple check list in order of priority.
1, Does it start easily.
2. Is it unusually noisy.
3. Does it have good oil pressure
4, Does it blow a lot of smoke after running for 10 minutes.
5, Does the alternator charge.
6, Does the water pump pick up and discharge enough water.
7, Is it leaking oil, fuel or coolant.
8. Does it engage forward and reverse.
Then AFTER you have checked those basics, stop the engine.
1. How are all of the hoses.
2. How is the pump.
3, How are the engine mounts.
4. How is the shaft coupling.
5, Does it have a good water inlet filter
6. Does it have a good oil filter.
Of course there are others, but that is the very least to check.
Then make you decision.
To start the engine you will need a fully charged battery and a good set of jumper leads.
A source of cooling water
Check engine and gearbox oil before starting.
Clean fuel. and a bit of fiddling around.
peteK
Well-known member
Parts4engines sell many parts for Perkins/Volvo engines and thats were I have seen engine mounts for around £25 maybe plus vat.
Fimacca
Active member
would not buy a boat without running the engine, and as said, you can do it out of the water.
if the price is good, have a marine engineer check it over and reduce price on findings accordingly........
if the price is good, have a marine engineer check it over and reduce price on findings accordingly........
lustyd
Well-known member
To play devil's advocate, would you have felt better if the current owner had spent £15 on a wire brush and a can of Volvo green spray paint? Looks can be deceiving - I found the spray paint in a locker after buying my boat, although the engine runs fine. The clean look certainly gave confidence but it's a poor way to judge.
HappyHurley
Member
Possibly... but the engine isn't the only area of neglect, it's visual condition [in this case] is indicative of the rest of the boat.
And... it *has* previously been sprayed - there's paint on the hoses, fuse housing etc
And... it *has* previously been sprayed - there's paint on the hoses, fuse housing etc
lustyd
Well-known member
They spray them all over when new because it's easier. If a hose isn't painted then it's likely been replaced!
peteK
Well-known member
It all depends on the price of the boat and what boat it is so its difficult to give answers.